JeepcoMJ

unfortunately, that's not the case here...i can see it's dispersal from the CPS hole, and below the top of the bellhousing. even felt behind the cover for wetness...but nothing other than 21 years worth of grime. putting the crankcase filter on the valve cover helped. it's kinda rigged (i think it is at least), but it will work for my purposes. when i put the canister filter in, i will reconnect the PCV system with replacement parts.

sure. i'll take one later this week...simply chopped it in half. nothing fancy. update...i have an EXTREMELY leaky rear main right now. stupid me for plugging the breather lines... :roll: :oops:

shucks. oh well. the bad news...i have to drive it for a week like this, making an hour and a half commute per day. oh well, i hope i don't get a fire... on the up-side, the vent is installed...

87 4.0 auto. it's leaking...literally just began leaking today. and pretty badly too. the leaks are dripping from below the oil drain (it's tight and not leaking, but it is the lowest spot on the pan and it's pooling there to drip), and coming out of the CPS hole to leak down on to the driveshaft and down pipe. um...i think it's my dumb butt's fault too....i removed the pcv system to the air box and plugged the hole there :oops: and just now remembered that i need a small filter there :eek: :roll: so as not to build crank-case pressure. so...i'll be putting the filter on, but what are the chances on the rear main still being good?

yep, just chopped it off forward of the center mounting plate. need to make a piece of diamond plate to cover the front of it now, then i can mount the rest of my auxilary switches there (rear fogs, amp cutout, OBA switch, etc.)

got a hella horn for it (i'm very disapointed...i wanted a deep noise, this sounds like a fawking clown car...) and the interior is done except for a few things to the chopped center console, and the rear trim piece air PSI gauge for the on board air (yet to install), and trans temp gauge (need to install sensor) cb installed, and bent a piece of diamondplate to cover the center Image Not Found notice all interior lights work (no broken clips either! going outside right now to put a new muffler in

lucky bastid dana 44 rear axle what motor and trans? runs/drives? or you just towed it home? it's got a small lift on it, BUT you have a problem... the rear wheel isn't centered. if i remember correctly, it's about as far forward in the wheel well as a cherokee rear spring would make it. so, start looking for new rear springs because those WON'T work. period. the shackle angle will be all wrong...can you take pictures of them? also won't flex properly. but, for the price, you did just fine edit: on second look, I've no idea what those springs are out of, but it's not from a comanche and not likely cherokee springs...not with seven leaves and no overload leaf. get MJ rear springs and 2" shackles and you should be good on lift..it's a mild lift on there anyways

NICE! now dovenose it!

look like what? a dirty, scuffed up, 21 year old jeep with half an interior and a bunch of new(ly refurbished) parts that idles funny? :brows:

this is easy. early dana 35's had one of those split sleeve pins...it's simple to use. take a narrow long punch and tap it through. i do not recall if it will punch all the way out or just enough to remove the larger pin for the spiders, but it's really not that big of a deal regardless. if it's the "just enough" scenario, use a long flat head screwdriver to pry it back through where it belongs. if it's the "all the way through" method, then you just reinstall it by aligning it to the hole, and tapping it in with the hammer and punch. you probably need your truck up on jackstands, with the axleshafts removed or slid partially out in order to do this project.

it was the damned connector for the heaterbox vacuum controls...it was all mushy and wouldn't keep from leaking vacuum. replaced it (not fun) and now it works properly

well... today I repaired the heaterbox problem...the connector to the back of the control module had gone soft, and was causing leakdown. I replaced it with the one that came off of the junk heaterbox (not a fun job...the hoses need to be cut out perfectly so you don't wreck the plug unit). no pics of that, but not that big of a deal. also wiring up my electric fan right now, installing the cargo lamp, radio/speakers/wiring, and installing the rest of the interior. tomorrow I'm removing the catalytic converter and muffler, and replacing the cat with a straight pipe and the muffler with a dynomax...they rattle and it kinda bugs me. after that, I'll be rebuilding the front driveshaft/replacing it, and locking the vac disco in place. progress :D

Why do you need offroad gear if you never offroad? Sorry had to give ya a hard time... being you've missed 3 trips now when every time you said you'd "no way I'm going to miss them" ;) i only missed two trips and never have had an MJ that i could really wheel. now i do.

well this will be the last update on this truck for awhile. i've decided most everything to do to it...acquired an ax15 trans, i've got an np242 transfercase for it, and am not sure whether to do the supercharged or just rebuild this motor to new with some performance parts. it had plenty of power, i just couldn't use it properly cause of the transmission and rear axle. clearing up a spot in the shop for it this weekend, and I will proceed to strip out the front clip and remove the motor and transmission as time allows. then off with the bed, hood, doors fenders, and interior. redo the floors and then I will be ready. i'll be buying the 2500 front clip to install on it, and building the front clip to 2500 specs with the bumpers and everything. new dana 30 non-disco front axle, 3.55 gearing will remain. properly undercoating/por15 the entire undercarriage, and rebuild the exhaust to run duals. factory MJ rear bumper with some reinforcement, fix the dents and rust issues. in other terms...it's going to become a street MJ with a 97+ interior and completely custom gauges, and a tonneau cover on the back (hard cover). tires and rims will remain the same, but the whole truck perhaps including the flares will be white, with black inserts.

just a scratch, and a windshield. we pulled as bad or worse on scorpio_vette's (wi4x4.com) xj. drove it for a week before flopping it off a car :roll: he got lucky...the whole cab shifted around 1' to the right and wrecked the driver's and rear doors, rear glass, then some alignment issues and whatnot

thanks it's optical illusion...it sits about level. i want the rear a bit higher so I can load my offroad gear and not suffer negative effects from losing too much up-travel and flex. but, the front's going up another 1" or so...

thanks. it's...whiter now. much, much whiter (compliments of straight up clorox bleach) and pulled up next to the 3800 this weekend I'll be aligning the front end, installing the radio and the rest of the interior, and hopefully button down some rattles. need to replace the front driveshaft and lock the disconnect as well...maybe get the 95+ seats in too, but not too sure if I will be able to.

Brett Favre is becoming fake football. What a soap opera. :nuts: BTW, count me in on the fantasy football participation. :cheers: agreed...that's a name i wouldn't mind not hearing (and i used to be a fan)

umm. it's FAKE football. i don't get it...have fun with it (no offense..)

Check the hard vacuum line from the vacuum canister (in front bumper, right side), it runs under the battery, two of mine were cracked near that point and they only blew through the defrost vents. checked. relocated it so yea. not sure

no problem man. yeah, mine was an 86 but had an 88 motor in it so the intake may have been changed at some point.

thanks for the help. i'll do that tomorrow -Pat

that is NOT correct. a good welder can weld structural. a "let's cover it up by smoothing it with a grinder" welder is someone who should keep their welding to non-structural stuff and parts that can be smoothed with bondo. anyone who uses the grinding method, please keep their built parts away from me (absolutely no offense meant) proper penetration prevents piss poor performance

run the hoses exactly as you see in the pics. eliminate any other hoses (i don't think there were any???) from the PCV system and plug them. it ran beautiful after this swap

new alternator is installed and working, MAP is swapped, and I put the toolbox from the 3800 and the spare tire carrier in the bed. also picked up another swb bedliner from 89eliminator for beaterjeep comparing jeeps with toolbox and carrier