JeepcoMJ

WHOAWHOAWHOA turbo diesel?! i HAVE one and need parts. is that still there, engine intact? gauges? you gotta help me out on this man...

poser rear bumper off mockup class 3 (no bumper so that I can make my measurements right now valve cover old one new one installed after sanding the ribs and a lil sumthin i actually bought the ARB, decided i DON'T like their one-hit kills bumper but saves truck design (3/16" steel), so i sold it to a buddy for what i payed for it (which is good, cause i woulda gone negative....)

seafoam. (most likely they cleaned the push rods etc. but didn't think to change the oil) change your oil, call it good

you know, i completely forgot about that one. i'll be there too for sure :D

...if you can put it off to the first weekend in october, I'm in. work won't allow me off on sunday nights right now, and I hardly want to pull 13 hours of work after driving 5 hours home... if you can, I'm game. i can even get my bro to get a move on with his MJ to be there too...needs trans, axles, lift, and floors then it's good to go.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ why make things more expensive? right now, he can just buy the control arms and not be out any money...he's got the spacers, and the 4.5" springs. springs with spacers won't really affect ride quality in this scenario...they're already lift springs, and the 6.5" of that brand likely have the same spring rate but more length, so the only thing he's doing by using the spacers plus 4.5" springs to net 6.25" of lift, is limiting flex a little bit if at all, and adding more of a natural bumpstop.

valve cover is drying right now...will post pics when it's installed. new O-rings on the injectors, took the stock rear bumper off and just put the tow bar on...it looks funny, but at least I can tow stuff now. the new bumper will be mounted sometime soon-ish... and, I rebuilt my first GM steering column today...the column in the truck wobbled all over the darn place, and affected how the key worked (pushrods wouldn't work right to the ignition switch). the only problem I had was the one c-clip around the steering shaft. anyways, now it's working for me and I put a 3 spoke black steering wheel with center cap on it instead of the crappy base model one.

fuel pump failure, distributor isn't indexed properly and timing is off, perhaps a failing CPS maybe dirty injector or the filter is already clogged....unlikely though with those symptoms that's all I can think of. basically, a bad fuel pump which still puts out less than max PSI would work fine at lower RPM's, but when you got to running higher RPM's where more pressure is needed to fuel it faster, it cannot match the necessary output for your engine's needs. dizzy indexed properly...it may be off by one tooth. this could explain poor running and no acceleration...my 87 MJ with a 4.0 had the distributor off by one tooth, and it would idle PERFECT but you couldn't rev it above 1200 RPM..., where it would begin to pop and backfire...it would run up to around 1800 RPM then just kill itself. failing CPS would read poor signals and not keep up with the timing and therefor not spark at the necessary moments...subsequently, if your flywheel is missing any of the timing teeth, you will net the same result (bad flywheel = pull tranny) my bet is my second scenario is correct. did you do any dizzy work recently, or has it been done recently?

at 4.5" of lift you need longer LCA's. at 6.25" with the spacers, you MUST have longer uppers AND lowers. otherwise you'll be pointing your pinion down at the ground :roll: I don't suggest going to shorter shackles, as that may limit flex and cause some problems in that department.

I've had BOTH seats with bracketry shipped to me for $60. the bracketry and metal parts go in one box, then the seats in another. folded up with the headrests removed and shoved between the seat base and back to remove dimensional. larger items are shipped by dimension. "dimensional weight" is the standardized weight of the box size...it is all very basic and, you will find, weight hardly matters with an item that's that large...the seat weighs much less than the dimensional weight of the box in which it will be placed.

agreed. and hell, I spoke with my driveshaft shop in the morning one day, came back with an xj front driveshaft and a 77 ford slip rear shaft, and he combined them and retubed to a larger diameter and thicker wall...all for $200, and pickup on the same day (4.5 hours after I dropped it off). any good shop can get you that turnover, just don't expect it on a weekend, or right at the end of the week...get the lift done by sunday, get the shaft made monday, drive it on tuesday. shops have work scheduled and it racks up towards the end of the week...

umm. you have both lower control arms out? is the body of the jeep up on stands, with the front tires off and the axle lowered and/or resting on a jack? that is THE ONLY safe way to install.

well, I just went to the junkyard today and saw a junk liberty. 8.25 rear, coiled. we were thinking of getting it for my bro or even for me so either of us can do a 3-link rear system....but at $400, EFF THAT. that said, I measured up as much as I could and it should bolt right on your 8.25 without issue...from what I can tell.

thanks a ton! I'll be looking into that. is the temp sensor you're discussing the small single pin one on the upper rear driver's side of the block? or is there another one?

not new, but the sensors on the throttle body (TPS and IAC) have been swapped various times...that's what I accomplished by swapping throttle bodies (off perfect running vehicles mind you)

nope, MAT sensor located on the intake manifold. i'm told that I have one...it measures incoming air temp and a faulty one can affect air/fuel mixture, which could explain the issues. as for idle screw...nope. i've swapped the throttle body 3 times with three different ones and that doesn't fix the low idle issue. most, if not all vacuum leaks are fixed, MAP is replaced, CPS replaced, ICM replaced, dizzy replaced and new plugs and wires. as for the PCV system...well, i removed it entirely. it wasn't plugged, but the ends on the valve cover were plugged. it now has a small filter where the large hose went, and the small hose still goes to the manifold. and no, i don't have to pass smog or emissions here :brows: oh! i've been pulling as high as 17.74mpg out of it....so it can't be running THAT bad though it is a few mpg short for highway mileage...

what does the MAT sensor do? could it cause low idle? my 87 4.0 is idling right around 350rpm...obviously that's not right. thanks guys! Pat

that's what straps and proper tie-downs are for. now you're gonna tell me that they don't want to inconvenience themselves time-wise :nuts: :eek:

future reference; when building and installing a new motor, pre-lube it with oil first. basically, put the oil in, remove the distributor, take a drill with a cut-off flat head screwdriver in it, and spin the pump through the dizzy hole IN THE DIRECTION OF DISTRIBUTOR ROTATION (which IIRC is clockwise). this prelubes the oil journals, lifters, etc. so you will not have to worry about binding during a cold, fresh start.

add the spring perch height as well, plus the thickness of the pack. it's very easy to turn a spring-over project into an 8" lift project. as for shaft interchangeability...yes, you can. but there are several factors. the only shafts that I KNOW for fact will change are; 4wd 4 cylinder (or 2.8 v6) 4wd manual trans longbed with dana 35 rear axle 2wd 4.0 auto shortbed with dana 44 rear HOWEVER you will also need to swap axles to accomplish that swap; the dana 44 driveshaftshaft is around 1" shorter than the dana 35 driveshafts are. in short, I used a shortbed 4.0 auto 2wd dana 44 equip rear driveshaft in my 86 comanche, which had the drivetrain of 2.8 v6 5 speed dana 35, and I upgraded the rear axle to a dana 44 (roasted the 35)...so i used the axle and shaft from the other truck and took the junk parts off of this truck and put them in it. if you don't follow, i can try and make it less confusing :nuts: :chillin:

I will not be removing the factory drop-ins on either of my trucks. however, I WILL be spraying my own bedliner in (herculiner) on both of them, then re-installing the factory bedliner. the reason I don't like the drop-in is that if it moves, it rubs out the paint. this has proven to not be the story with good spray-ins. I can't justify not reinstalling the bedliners....everything slides over them so nicely. I LIKE to be able to slide my snowmobile in the back of my truck by myself (without the carbides gouging the bed all to hell). the only thing you need, when using a drop-in liner, is more tiedown points. just because it slides around doesn't mean it can't be made secure.

will add pix later, but I've begun work on the rear shock mounts...decided I didn't like how it was turning out so far, so I'm just installing modified cherokee lower mounts on it, and triangulating the shocks. also got a set of rough country swaybar end links in a trade and put them in...much much better handling now that everything is tight. upgrading to swaybar disco's from 89eliminator soon enough. this weekend I'm doing the valve cover, water pump, and injectors on the motor. hopefully I'll also get the rear bumper installed and the shocks finished. thank god I have a company vehicle to drive now :D

hey, i've got zero problem working on your stuff...we just gotta get it done! stop working on that xj and lets get the darned MJ lifted locked and loaded!

agreed. however, I would pull the caps from the crankshaft (loosen but keep snug, then inspect one at a time) just to see if there is any wear marks...if there's wear and/or grooves on the cap-side of the bearing, then there will also be on the other side, and you need to do some work. not sure if i'd bother with the rod caps or not...idk. probably would not simply cause then you need new bolts for them...

...do you have the transmission in or at least the bellhousing bolted up with the CPS installed and hooked up? remember, the CPS reads only when it's hooked up :brows: