JeepcoMJ

you wanna get some good bushings in those LCA's? I've got enough to replace your bad ones...

I would say that it's a very good idea. if you have the room in the engine bay to relocate it, then heck yes.

Wow, clean notch man. I agree. and i definitely don't contest that they're wicked fast, i just don't want them being called muscle cars. not yet at least...now, a 71 dodge challenger with a 69 challenger front end (no chitty leather-crap top) and a 6.6 liter Hemi from a new dodge challenger with updated suspension...that, would be slick. efficient, up to date, with good old american muscle body, and a look that says "it's not stock, neither is your car you ricer ricer, but you is still gonna end up crying in a corner when i beat your tonka toy" :D i love american muscle bodies, but I much prefer MPFI

we drain clean the tanks on our snowmobiles, clean out the carbs immediately, and put a bit of oil (2 stroke for 2 stroke motors, we have one four stroke snowmobile which obviously gets 4 stroke oil) on the bottom of the bowl only. just a very light film. but, with a snowmobile, if you use last year's gas, you WILL blow up the motor since the jets aren't clean. we don't even reconnect the fuel lines to the carbs until we're ready to ride. another side-benefit of that is that we can use the oil in our weed eater (if we mix it), lawnmowers, or toss it in the truck. the 03 RX1 and 92 VMAX both get premium only. figure this; it's a seasonal item, treat it well. run premium and whichever fuel system cleaner you prefer or is highly suggested, and you'll never do wrong. over-achieve and clean after every use, and you're good to go.

I have to disagree. I drive an 89, and in stock form it would've kept up with the vast majority of 60s muscle. And that's coming from a HUGE 60s car nut. so can an LS1 corvette, or a McClaren f1, but neither of them are true muscle cars. catagorizing them in the same class as a true american muscle car is unjustifiable and wrong. it could be quick, but so can a ricer that's built right (unfortunately)

no offense, but an 84 rustang is not american muscle. it's the after-effect, and while quick, it is NOT a muscle car in any means and fails to live up to the mustang heritage in both looks, and performance.

I LOOOOVE ricers. and the look on their face when i blow right by them in a camaro powered comanche :brows: :cheers:

i put an inline on the 3800. the only thing it is good for is that it's easier to replace WHEN it goes bad. go factory, and buy a nice pump right off the bat.

just to give you an example, I wasn't around when my dad did the xj prop valve swap on the 3800, and really didn't know what was involved. I had the proper parts for the swap in the 87, but just didn't wanna deal with the swap. was mid-lift with the last thing to do being the brakes, and weld the rear spring perches. the prop valve swap took all of two hours, because I had to rebuild brake lines in the rear, removed the line i didn't need, and there just isn't much room for someone with big hands to get in at the prop valve.

why thank you sir. I used Engine Enamel by duplicolor I believe. it was low gloss black, and I got it at advance auto. wanted to go with bedliner, but the funds just aren't there at the moment...and i wanted to do SOMETHING to the truck other than sit around and look at it, or do anything major

me too. already off work, ordered some RC control arms to replace my junk. no time to build my own stuff so screw it...i'll just go with adj. short arms for now. hope my tires are up to the challenge...i bet they'll SUCK offroad...

*shrug* threads aren't my thing. i just go and get what fits, and usually bring an example with me to figure it out.

lay-man's terms for you. the snatch-block effectively made his vehicle think yours weighed half as much as it does.

how far are you looking at extension? if you have a scrap MJ and cut the back of the cab off, simply putting 2 door cherokee doors in and adding 9" of cab will make somewhat of an extended cab. this is/was TNT's plan on the club here. you'd also have to shorten the front of the box. otherwise, there have been a fair few of them around. one is built with a newer cherokee body and a comanche back half, and there are TONS of cheromanches out there as well.

lol. I'm thinking of starting it this week...today I'll probably make my frame-mount templates so I can drill them out and drill out the uni-frame so that I can weld sleeves in it and have more bolt holes than stock to hold the bumper in. should perhaps have her all done this weekend, or at least have a good start.

hardware. plumbing section. i forget the thread, but it's like 3/8" pipe thread i believe. I can try and find out for you, but you should be able to simply walk in to the parts store and tell them what you need as well. parts stores DO have plumbing hardline as well, but for some reason I just trust the local hardware store more than advance auto or napa :redX:

a snatch-block and tree saver compound the power of the winch in two. wrap the tree-saver around an item (tree, sturdy solid rock, etc.), hook up the snatch-block, run the cable through it and around to the vehicle to be towed, secure the vehicle doing the winching, and winch her back. purty simple...it's a method that probably helped create stonehenge

basically. I'm not asking my insurance to get involved...but the other company can always supercede that. they did, and now it's a battle royal. MV, in your case eagle is correct. just be sure that YOU file a claim against their insurance before they file the clame with their insurance. the faster you do, the faster it's taken care of. of course, if she'll offer to pay you $1300 for said part no questions asked, then you can do your best to fix it and chop off the bottom edge of the box on both rear sides, build a bumper for there, and call it good...you were gonna trash it offroad anyways ;)

it is. KBB value on it is less than $1500. repair on that bedside will be between $2200 and $3400 depending on how they do it. the problem is that this also includes a fresh paint job on that side, but not on the whole truck....so the paint on the rest of the truck will also cut down on the KBB value, which will probably more than likely give him a totalled truck (sorry to say) and i know none of us want to see that...

twice! ...the second time happened less than a week and a half after I fixed it from the first time too :hateputers: :headpop: actually, I go to court for it on wednesday. they tried to give me 70% fault...when the other guy got the ticket and CLEARLY turned left into the side of my truck. the officer is friends with the wife of the guy who hit me...i've got a feeling that's one cop who's losing her job. good luck with the insurance. you documented the photos very accurately, I suggest you draw up a diagram of the whole scenario, and most importantly, DON'T repair the damage before it's settled. oh, go get an estimate on the repair. the damage is bad enough that the whole panel would technically need to be replaced....the panel retails for $1310 IF you can get it, plus install time. this will total out your truck, so get a KBB on it, then also have your insurance company give you a fair-market value estimate on it for comparison. you'll likely have to total it, and buy it back for a small fee with a salvage title (unfortunately this means it will have to pass state inspection). oh, and with how far she pushed you, I'd go see a chiropracter :popcorn:

5 or 6 kids just means she knows what she's doing (well experienced) :brows: and she doesn't expect you to be at the delivery :brows: i still don't get how she's white trash :nuts:

I traced the return line, removed it. re-did the rear of the factory sender line because it was wrapped with that spring crap, and i figured if it wasn't rusty now it would be soon. plumbed that to my rear brake hose. went up front, removed the MJ prop valve, installed the XJ prop valve. the xj and mj one look very similar, and by looking at the xj one you will see which line you will need to remove. install, re-bleed ALL brakes, and you're now good to go.

first, what year is your truck? have you replaced the ballast resistor? it's located on the left hand side of the engine bay, made of ceramic with two wires connecting to it. by the sounds of it, it's heating up the resistor then the resistor expands the spring inside and therefor doesn't make contact. it's around $2 at the parts store. if you buy one, buy two. never hurts to have a spare

if you were more local, I'd proabably work out a cheap price on my xj 8.25 in the barn...3.55 gears and bones-basic 8.25 with all brake hardware.

it's nice that our trucks don't have frames :brows: gotta love unibody. and yes, if that law is accurate, this is aa viable loophole.