JeepcoMJ

HOLD IT. you bought this from a JEEP STORE?! dude, you've officially been hosed. unfortunately for them, if you they didn't give you a disclaimer about the VERY VERY POOR condition of that axle, they HAVE to give you back your money. if Jeeps are their profession then they can be held accountable for mis-information and probably quite a few other things. they robbed you buddy, go get your $$$ back uh huh, so when he looked at when he picked it up it was in perfect condition then? nope, but some yuppie who just wants replacement axles doesn't know any better. it is THEIR JOB to disclaim ANY AND ALL pertinent information as to the completely terrible shape of the axle. if they did not, then it's their fault, not his. as a company with a reputation to save, I hope they give him his money back.

posted by me on Jeeps-Offroad.com ba10/5 to ax15 swap you will need; basically you need the everything for the tranny (including a new transfercase as it is a different spline count), including the shifter handle, trans, bellhousing, and slave cylinder (plus throwout bearing plate if you manage to get one with an external slave bellhousing...which I highly recommend). the pilot bearing will also have to be changed to the ax15 pilot bearing (mod edit: or the 74 CJ 304 pilot bushing (a $2 part) depending on the year of the AX-15). chances are you will have to put a posi-lok for your front axle Central Axle Disconnect (CAD), though you may get lucky with a 1990 ax15 and np231 which has the vacuum switch on the transfercase. (mod edit: or secure the CAD in to the shifted position using any one of a number of methods OR swap in a solid shaft from a non-CAD Dana 30) you can also swap out the input shaft on your t-case for a 23 spline one if you choose (this is a good chance to rebuild the case...it is very easy to do). [ba10/5 to aw4 swap you will need; trans (1987-mid 1990 for or you will need transfercase as well due to spline count changes) bellhousing torque converter flex plate dust shields transmission wiring harness (this is seperate from the body harness and the connectors are already there) engine computer (though this is debatable...some have not had to swap the ECM) Throttle/trans cable (TV cable) and throttle body mount. the cable is part of the trans, so the only thing you'd need to locate is the mount if you do get the transmission. TPS the throttle position sensors are also different TCU (tranny control unit...transmission computer. located under the knee board on the passenger side of the dash. tranny wiring also runs in that location, and you can trail it back to remove it). pedal assembly with brake switchshifter shifter plate (plugs the 5 speed shifter hole) shifter cable and transmission bracket. these are different depending on if the donor has a floor shifter or column shifter. steering column. you can get by without it, but there is a safety ignition lockout that will keep you from being able to remove the key until it is in park. I run auto columns in my jeeps and bypass the safety feature for the simple fact that the shifter is always put where it belongs, and I don't want any extra crap to break. that should be it. also note that the driveshaft length may change, though I have no specifics on this...any swap done by me included a lift, and was a 2wd to 4wd conversion as well so it required new shafts (I put this here so that anyone doing either swap can find out the parts list. please inform me if I forgot anything...I don't think I did but you never know)

tomorrow (today actually) is redneck alignment day. just need the wheel to be close to center and the truck to track straight until thursday (though i won't even drive it from sunday on), and the pinion angle set right (adjust UCA's to 1/8" longer). fortunately, redneck alignment is also accompanied by non-redneck light and fan wiring day as well. will wire in proper waterproofed relays for each set of lights (two sets up front, and getting everything set for rears but not mounting them yet). then mount hi-lift new input seal on the rear axle flush heater core bleed brakes check all fluids and top off (no leaks now save axle pinion seal) begin OBA if i get a chance

pm sent fiats!

HOLD IT. you bought this from a JEEP STORE?! dude, you've officially been hosed. unfortunately for them, if you they didn't give you a disclaimer about the VERY VERY POOR condition of that axle, they HAVE to give you back your money. if Jeeps are their profession then they can be held accountable for mis-information and probably quite a few other things. they robbed you buddy, go get your $$$ back

great deal on the rear axle. sorry to say, but the front axle is about worthless unless you can fabricate. it's best to pull the gears from the front axle and put them in another axle. your unit bearings are likely shot, I bet the brakes are close to junk, it will need new ball joints, and ALL new seals. new Ujoints will be needed, good luck getting the stabilizer and trackbar off too. it needs new shock mounts (at the very least). you will also need to inspect the coil spring buckets...that's by far the worst rust in that area I've ever seen. your lower control arm mounts probably have many many small holes in them, and will likely be junk. all of that can be taken off of your comanche's axle, but you'll need a plasma cutter or something of that sort. I'd build all new mounts for the axle, raise the lower mounts up to behind the axle so it doesn't catch on them offroad, raise the UCA mounts up, and give myself some free lift with raised coil buckets too. also a relocated trackbar mount so that it maintains proper geometry, and an OTK steering setup.

it's actually a 4 door cherokee with the rear doors welded shut, from what I can tell. the doors aren't long enough to be 2dr doors. the rear flares were my first giveaway actually. they're WAAAAY too low from the top of the body line.

can't decide if it's a 4 door or a 2 door xj, but it is not a comanche. i like the paint. that's about it.

80% of statistics are skewed to prove a point.

haha. sure, after checking the pre-load and swapping in new gears :roll:

you...sort of get my point. Yes, this is directly resulting from the bill. I also disagree with the bill, BUT i think that viable options are out there and they ARE NOT trying hard enough, and are not willing enough to work together to get us set straight. I'm not going to school right now because I owe money to school, and cannot secure a loan to cover me; i know that this way of thinking is some of the problem with society today, except for one thing. I'm 21 years old with junior status in college. I've been at junior status since the end of my freshman year of college, and am currently 3 credits shy of senior status. I don't want to put off my education. the time and place is now. putting off my education even a little bit means chances of putting it off further due to money issues are greater. I wish to complete college with my major in spanish and minor (or major depending on my time frame) in Criminal Justice. I'm 4 semesters shy of this due to several changes in major. upon completion, I KNOW i can pay off my college loans in less than 2 years, easily. the job market is huge in that area. 40,000 isn't really alot of money anymore, and that's all I will be in debt. it can, and WILL be payed off. I just need help to ensure success so that I may pay off my debt (doing it on "uneducated pay" is just not possible with cost of living in mind).

I concur. I think pinion depth was not set right...at all.

project88, that's what I was worried about. it's not a tow point.

88, I really like the front bumper and do like the simplicity of the rear bumper, but I have to say there are absolutely no points on the rear bumper which you could ever get me to tow from...those welds are none too pretty, and the clevis mounts don't weld through...they are not sturdy enough, and with the welds as they are...well, I like to avoid flying metal objects. just advising you so you avoid issues like such. that would be a terrible incident.

seen it a couple times. usually i see it from the rear cables or brakes being froze and someone hams on the ebrake pedal not knowing that. but...who needs ebrakes???? :brows:

okay. is anyone else sick of the "you suck, no you suck" attitude between democrats and republicans? we're in a HUGE financial crisis here, and when we ALL NEED TO WORK TOGETHER THE MOST, people point blame and then bills that should (no guarantee) help fix our economy cannot be passed. why can I no longer secure a private student loan? I need it. government loans only go so far. chalk up the other issues. this is the one that most affects me at the moment, but jesus friggin christ people. just because you belong to a party with different views than the other main decision making party, doesn't mean you no longer belong to the country who your decisions affect. put aside your differences and lead (i.e. do what we voted to have you do) (this is not directed at any of you, just the people in power). does anyone else agree? note; this is NOT to become a point fingers at your "opposing" parties. I simply want to know who is of the same mindset, and discuss what we as the people of our country can even do about it.

doing this on my 87 soon

pretty demanding there on how you want it said. jeepcomj no no webcam

that would be because you are one ;) ...it's ok, I are one too

lol guys

I'm running YJ front lines and a dakota rear line. at full droop on the axle, the lines are more than long enough.

the newer gauge cluster WILL NOT work with renix, or normal H.O. motors and wiring harness. period. it is run by the 97+ engine computer everything control wise uses different connectors on the 97+ I don't recall if it uses a different heater box, but i know it uses different vent tubes. basically if you wanted to swap to it, you'd have to cut out the wires for the heater system from the 97+, probably grab the heaterbox too, and put it all in but hardwire the heater control to ignition power with a fuse. then you'd have to custom build a gauge cluster (whether with aftermarket gauges or factory ones) to go where the 97+ one would, as the only way to make it work is to make a bunch of adapters to switch the input signals (hard to do, but if you could do it and make more you'd have a good market).

:D post one letter at a time. eventually you'll have us all scratching our heads trying to piece words together (face it, that's what it is with you anyways j/k :roll: ;) ) and you'll get to the post count :D

lol. and now the water pump failed... :rotf: :rotf: :rotfl2: :wall: guess I'll finally fix that, and the one bad idler pully on friday night. but... yay proper flex! i need lockers, and new tires...

*shrug*