JeepcoMJ

It doesn't need to. There's at least one oil passage on the bottom of the midplate. it's very small.

yup. same here, and absolutely zero issues...they are actually too long for my 6.5" lift :P

that is not the fill plug. the fill plug is on the front half of the case. on the driver's side, mid-way down an between the bellhousing and the mid-plate. you can't fill from that back one. it should actually hold a detent if I'm remembering correctly, and even if it does not, you would fill it too low and no lube would get on the main shaft. it would also take awhile to let the oil soak through from the rear case through the bearings into the front case.

86 came with the AX4 4 speed, the AX5 5 speed, or substituted by a T5 or T4. the peugot never even had a bellhousing that would mount it to a 60 degree gm bellhousing, which is what the 2.5 4 cylinder and the 2.8 v6 both have.

worse come to worse with your keys, I have a couple brand new ignition tumblers with (two) matched keys that I could send you for cheap. gotta tear the steering column apart though.

hmm. I wonder what happened to your socket-adjustable shackles? :clapping: :yes: :idea:

they're nice arms. I put them on my 87 MJ with 6.5" of lift a month ago, and tested them out at the badlands last weekend...they're sweet. perform beautifully and make me think twice about getting longarms.

:cheers: :bowdown: that is all.

agreed. my paint scheme may venture from white/black sometime in the near future...

that is not a rear main leak. in that location, it's either valve cover, distributor, or oil filter adapter. just because you replaced those too doesn't mean they don't leak. it's very easy to tear O-rings

eagle's got it. also, I know my 86 cherokee laredo had headlight delay, so it must go back that far, even if it's rarer.

you asked for advice. we gave it. there is good tech in this thread (or there was I should say) and it is unfortunate that you feel the way you do. I think that perhaps I may come off strongly sometimes, but am very confident that I speak for all of us when I say that we are only concerned for your safety and that of others around you. yes, your method worked, but is not within the operating spec of that pump. that said, you have a band-aid repair that should likely be attended to when you have the money for a proper pump. I dropped $250 awhile back on a molley adj. in-line fuel pump for the 3800, have yet to install it but don't intend to drive it before I do. I used a ford in-line fuel pump and am far from happy with the noise and performance.

Not all strokers have the tabs removed, and not all need them removed. The ONLY reason for having to tinker with the distributor indexing is if an aftermarket camshaft doesn't have the distributor drive gear properly indexed to the cam lobes. If the camshaft is in spec, there's no reason to cut off the locating tabs. I agree. that isn't to say that a distributor cannot be timed incorrectly with ignition though. if someone places the distributor in it's rightful place, but doesn't bother positioning the rotor to fire in spec with TDC on whichever pistion they're basing it off of (usually number one), then the distributor is technically not indexed properly. it needs to be set this way, and by doing so the only realistic problem that someone should have is being 180 degrees off of the correct position. hopefully that made sense.

nice electrical connections btw. I really like how you sleeved the female power connector to keep any potentially hazardous metallic objects from shorting it out, causing the truck and potentially driver and perhaps even innocent bystanders to die. your mentality is all fun and games. and then someone dies or gets hurt, and suddenly no one is laughing.

What's a "mexi-cannot" Pat? That sounds politically uncorrect to me. Shame on you kid............ :dunce: he stole it from the movie :rotf: what movie? I just came up with it. hornbrod, it's only politically incorrect if it is untrue. the PO was of hispanic origin. also, I respect the spanish comunity (and ironically I'm majoring in spanish and walked in to college with 37 retro-credits in spanish.)

Tell us why you know this Pat? ;) because the mexi-cannots who had my truck before me fawked up the dizzy index when they swapped the used decrepit friggin distributor in the truck.... which is why I got it for trade in scrap value :D :clapping:

Ahah! You have actually done this? I have always maintained that it's possible, but the shop foreman at my dealership swears it can't be done so I never pursued it. Thank you, thank you! How hard a job was it to accomplish? after geonovast did it (I sort of "helped" by watching, so I could learn lol), I did this with a 2wd 4 speed that I converted to 4wd 5 speed after one blew (my fault...again) in the 3800. they're simple trannies, with the only real issues being the springs and other parts in the mid-plate. the shift rods also have to be swapped out for the project, but otherwise its fairly bolt-on.

:clapping: It might. Gas doesn't cause rust, water does. uh. not only that, but do you realize that the factory pump isn't rated externally for cooling issues? the factory pump is inside the tank because the gas cools it and therefor it doesn't overheat. now, you are mixing heat with gasoline...hardly a wise decision IMHO. ingenious idea, but I'd advise that no one else do it...

you can index the distributor though... if the distributor gears are set off by even one tooth, it will either not run, or run like absolute crap.

and, since your master is leaking into the cab, you will want to clean the fuse box very thoroughly...the clutch fluid leaks directly onto the fuse box, and that is going to or already has caused corrosion. if you have any electrical issues, that is likely the source or part of the problem.

a little in touch with your feminine side there pong? lol, I suppose at least the truck isn't painted girly colours

:cheers: at least I won't be working on it EVERY weekend now :chillin:

and tear it up we did. on the trip, the water pump went south...not all the way south, but right on the border. the head gasket leaks a very small amount of anti-freeze, I almost hydrolocked the truck (improper water entry at speed) and ended up wrecking the TPS and ICM at the very least, though it still isn't running right after swapping the sensors on the trail. tore off the exhaust (easy repair), bottomed out the rear right shocks and broke it, blew the rear right wheel cylinder, something broke/got loose in the steering box, and the transmission now grinds slightly between reverse and park. thankfully no body damage. ANYWAYS now for the change in plans. Tim (TNT) and I are working out a deal that gives me his 1995 4.0 HO chrysler reman (bored over most likely .020) with borla header, 62mm bored throttle body, transmission, entire wiring harness with power windows, locks, and R-142 a/c system. also all accessories needed for the swap including gauges, OHC, and headliner plus engine bay accessories. it has a trans temp gauge wired in, and a tranny controller already to control 1-2 shifts and lock torque converter. that said, it's a pretty sweet setup since the trans has 80k miles on it, and the motor has 3k miles on it. the engine will be dropped in for now while I accumulate the stroker parts for it (unless I get the crank, rods, and $600 pistons before it's installed). hoping to have it payed off in 6 weeks. so, I'm not fixing nor diagnosing this motor at all, since I really don't care...it runs and drives well enough for local travel, and if it takes a dump oh well. In the meantime, I'm removing the dust shields up front and installing 297 disco shafts from a 1995 YJ, and installing brand new ZJ discs on the dana 44 in back. at the same time, I hope to put a mini spool in the rear and reseal the rear axle completely. I'll also take care of putting permanent drain plugs in the truck soon, so I can actively drain the truck at my leisure. will also clean/bedline the floors. after the drivetrain swap, it's time for the new tube fenders that I will build, and a wagoneer quad headlight grille. then it's time to build the skidrails on the side, and begin doing a sort of external cage too. I got lucky with no body damage this past time, but want zero chance next time. :cheers:

scuff, prime, sand, paint, sand, clear

well, Idk when I will actually get around to it. maybe this weekend? idk...don't particularly feel like working on the truck much anymore. met the deadline for the badlands, and since I've now got a 2002 gmc savana 3500 duramax van for work...well, don't really need to DD the truck. drive local and it's safe...brakes will be the first fix with discs in the rear :D I'll do a write-up on both the rear brakes, and removing the dust shields -Pat