JeepcoMJ

replace the TPS the one you have is probably faulty. I'm sure Eagle can tell you how to test the TPS...I don't know how.

here's mine...I didn't make it and have no real specs/measurements on it, so what you see is what you get. it will fit a warn M9500 though, which is supposed to be the widest and now second fastest winch available. TNT from the club here made it, and he can tell you everything about it if you pm him.

it's not an add. there's a link to an add...bridging topics to give us good information. I think it's just fine here. and, yep. it seems that people are being picky lately...

actually it was pretty appropriate to post that. :agree: with wade

BWAHAHAHA. man, don't feel bad. I'm sure I should feel terrible.... but I don't.

I personally would like everyone to chill, and not post negative or positive feedback at the moment. then, it would be nice if the OP came back, and told us what happened. did he damage the truck, or did people vandalize it? was it public, or private I'm a member on naxja and have a WOHVA membership as well....I do not condone this type of trail run, or activity. however, if he can explain it for us to better understand, perhaps no one will jump to further conclusions. and yes, I was a little rash too. he needs to learn from this.

they stopped making caddy's around '82 i believe. a TDi swapped caddy would be so bad @$$; fast, great handling(like a long rabbit), great fuel mileage. they are sweet trucks but if you are over 5'8" or so you feel like a sardine. i've had several rabbits & a mk 1 rocco and always wanted a caddy but they are rare around here. that 3800 powered MJ sounds pretty bad @$$, i've heard of those motors doing over 30mpg with some tweaks. they kept the caddy's going right up to 86 or 87...I meant to type 84. sorry. but, factory diesel in one of those does just fine. the 3800 was really sweet until I spun some bearings in the motor doing a 3rd to 2nd downshift while accelerating past 40 (i thought I was in 5th...)...removing the motor this weekend so I can rebuild it over the next week and a half. I average 19 to 28 mpg and got 29 out of it once...mind you, they rate at 29 to 31mpg highway in a crapmaro, so I don't think the truck is doing too bad with an extra 1k lbs of weight :P

HAPPY MJ DAY!!!!!!! ...er....enjoy the Turkey too....

I should say, that I'm upgrading the 87's roasted renix 4.0 to a 95 4.0. I am sticking with the 4.0 because it is EASY to work on, and damned reliable. I can tear down an MJ in a day, if not less. they're simple to work on, so IDK where you're getting that assumption...foreign cars are hell compared to these.

I DD MJ's. the only other car I've ever DD'd besides an MJ or an XJ is a '85 vw cabriolet, and I drove a corrado for two weeks until I hit two deer at one time with it going at speeds in excess... my preferred MJ is my 86 4wd 5 speed with 3" lift and 31" tires...the 3800. it's got a 3.8 camaro motor in it from a 96 camaro. I upgraded from the crappy 2.8 v6 it had. it's a dream to drive...I've had it up to 120 without a single vibe or funny sound. it did have a couple small wind leaks, but the new door seals and 97+ doors will fix that. it gets between 19 and 28mpg depending on city/highway and how heavy my foot is. my 87 MJ is a blast to drive down the highway. 4wd, 6.5" lift, 33" tires, 4.10 gears. I pass traffic and feel safer about it in that thing than I did in my cabrio. it gets 16 to 19mpg before I roasted the motor, trans, and steering down at the badlands. the failures were my fault and the PO's fault for lack of proper maintenance...but I never cared about the motor because of the upgrade that's sitting in my shop. the XJ was a 4 cylinder, stock suspension with 29" tires 4.10 gears 4wd and 5 speed. it got 19mpg but didn't get me anywhere fast. it topped out at 85mph, and really could have used one more gear. that said, I really liked that jeep...it's nice to have passenger space (sometimes). that said, I'm currently looking at an 94 VW caddy pickup. I did like the cabriolet, but I don't like being the one to carpool with, and I still like to haul things. plus, at 50mpg with a diesel, and $3k for a restored one, I don't think it's half bad. I drove an 89 S10 with a 4.3 vortec for a month when I was installing the 3.8 in the 86, and I HATED it. the 4.3 sucks in every way. the s10 has no character, everyone has one, it's slow, it's old and ugly, and the IFS really makes things worse to handle on the highway with oversize tires and 20 year old parts. I would never DD an s10 if you're looking at a small truck with an aggressive stance, and reliability, your choices are the comanche, or any of the toyota or mazda 4x4 pickups

true, but have you ever had to clean up a fitness centre in the middle of winter in a county which opts instead for sand? it's HORRIBLE. I like salt. I don't like lazy people who won't wash their vehicles frequently.

nah, I had a similar problem, but mine was the valve block on the back of the heater controls. he has a simple issue of not building vacuum. if the vacuum canister is connected properly, and he's been moving the controls without the engine running, he has no stored vacuum. so, he just needs the truck to run again, and he won't have any problems. well, that's most likely. after that, check the vacuum canister and probably replace the vacuum lines...they get brittle with age.

I mean this in the best way, but you're a dumb@$$ dude...get a new MJ. that's not getting fixed. did you leave it there and they trashed it, or did you do all that?

gah! I almost ended up with this 11k mile gem... unfortunately my deal fell through. but, he's got an M715 that's rust free to sell me for $1200...comes with a nice swivel turret too :D

What about driving on 2WD while I fix the 4x4 problem? this way it doesn´t do any noise. even if I drive it hard. nope. because you don't know if it's internal. nothing will likely happen, but if it's internal in the case, I'd say you want to prolong the situation until you can find a new transfercase. taking the front driveshaft off literally takes all of five minutes

Thanks Redramman! and thanks all you guys but for now I don't´t have time to work on the truck until weekend, I´m busy at work, but I will try taking off the front DS and see what happen, do you know what kind of oil should I use for the transfer case? Thanks again! I am learning a lot, this weekend I am going to help a friend to fix his CAD since I learn how it works this days that I was working on mi truck. ATF. don't drive the truck until you fix the problem. that's really not optional, unless you want a hole lot of parts flying around, and breaking.

I only clearanced the intake a little bit, and actually put a 1/8" to 3/16" divot in the borla itself. if this proves restrictive, my brother will remove that section of tube, bend and weld a new one, and weld it in (certified welder, he built stainless aircraft exhaust at his last job, and modifications like this don't affect performance in his experience). as for the a/c pump bracket etc, I had been looking at the tensioner and bracket from the '00 TJ motor I have in the barn...and it is all different. luckily in our pm's you reminded me about the 96+ bracket...which has worked out well for me. I payed $1500 for the engine, 3 NEW genuine mopar oil filters ECU, TCM, interior and exterior wiring, 90k mile full gauges, transmission, fuel lines and filter, header, downtube, all new hoses, tranny skid, MORE mounts, and complete R134 system with new condensor and dryer. the intake was free, and the p/s bracket was $15 and the pulley for the pump was $5. so, for that price I hardly feel bad modifying the borla...I still come out ahead of the game if I screw it up a bit.

I'd say YOU'RE the winner...because yours is so clean :D lucky dog!

thanks. a finished product always looks better, and I think it's what I was going for. well, nothing new except the water pump is all torqued and sealed, and I have the intake/exhaust gasket, t-stat and it's gasket, and valve cover gasket to install now. I also picked up an oil pan skid plate out of the deal. pretty unnecessary, but you can't really go wrong with it... I won't be working on it until the end of the week now, because I picked up a bigger fish tank and stand...so I need to clean it, reorganize my room, swap tanks, and get the trickle filter set up with the refugium. saltwater takes time to set up, but oh so worth it :D

actually, it is. you have to shave the ears off of the distributor in order to do so. it's common practice for those running strokers. anyways, no, a HO dizzy won't work...the connector for the camshaft position sensor is different.

to chime in... we just swapped from 3.07 gears to 3.55 gears in my brother's 88 4.0 ax15 5 speed 4x4 MJ with 31x10.50 M/T's... the difference is DRASTIC. his gas mileage went from 18mpg on a long haul to 20.5mpg on a long haul, and he averages around 18mpg city as opposed to the previous 15mpg city. now, tell me that is not "worth it" he can almost out-do the 3800 now :yes:

thanks! Redramman told me that but my question is why it only does with the wheels turned? If I remove the driveshaft I think it is no going to make any noise like if it were with the tires straight, it does the sound just when it has a little effort aplied to the transfer I can ear the sound coming out of the transfer case and it start to vibrate( I saw that when the truck was on jack stands) do you still think I should remove the front drive shaft????????HEEEELLLPPPPP!!!!!!! thanks! *sigh* yes. remove the shaft. it does this when it turns, because while in 4wd the axleshaft disconnect is locked on. when the wheels turn, the differential does it's job and differentiates. so, one wheel (outside wheel) spins faster than the other wheel. theoretically, this should have little to no effect on the driveshaft. but, take out the EIGHT BOLTS holding the driveshaft in, because it is the next link into solving the case. I still think with the turning symptoms that it is a bad gearset (i.e. the person doing it had no idea what they're doing), or bad axle ujoints. but, the next likely cause is the cardan on the front driveshaft. the last and least likely cause is transfercase failure.

remove the front driveshaft and drive it in 4wd. see if it does it then. if it does, it's the transfercase. if it doesn't, you need your front double cardan front driveshaft rebuilt. I had wrote a long explanation before redramman replied, but for some reason cc.com decided it didn't want to post it :hmm:

SWEET! so how much was it? you don't have to feel bad telling us...I'm picking up an 87 4wd chief with ax15 and d44, tow, and limited slip rear plus buckets in a couple weeks for $125....so you can feel better that you didn't rape the guy too bad. (of course, mine's a rusty pile of parts rig)

:yes: :D :cheers: but I thought you weren't going to paint it until the next part of the project was done?