JeepcoMJ

I remove both driveshafts while towing. it takes time, but not enough to make me not want to do it. that way nothing moves.

very nice find. sounds like you got a wisconsin price there :P I'm jealous.

I was thinking about that as I was doing it. There are little rubber bushings between the tubing and the tail shaft, but I don't know if that'll be enough. The engine mounts have rubber in them, but they're really hard and they don't move at all when I rev it. I don't know if the tranny will flex enough with those thick rubber washers, or if I need an entire rubber mount. it will, and it's not enough. there should be zero hard mount between the crossmember and the transmission. there needs to be a rubber isolator between the two...even if it's just a poly mount. there should be many different ones available out there. remember not to bolt all the way through from the crossmember...bolt to one side of the mount, then the rubber (or poly) in between, then to the other side of the mount. anyways, the last thing you want is to break the botton of your transmission off.

from 1991 on for sure, the only jeeps with CAD were YJ's. this may continue to mid 1990, but I am unsure. having a non-CAD axle is commonly associated with having an np242, which MJ's never came with from factory. Chrysler decided that the CAD wasn't doing any good and so they deleted them. perhaps this is what you were thinking.

good so far, but get a different transmission mount. the one you have is not going to work. go with poly, or make a spacer to use the factory mount. you've got a nice mockup...

will be in Iowa for work from today through thursday/friday, so if there are pending deals/messages/etc, I apologize for the delay. should have off on friday to get everything set and taken care of -Pat

When exactly are you coming home? I would not buy that MJ...it's really not that clean, and the front end damage on it already tells me that it needs some inner fender work as well. it will not just be sheetmetal damage. the hood may close hard, or may not open at all, and the front edge of the frame could be bent to $#!&. better deals are out there

pics

welcome back :cheers: you should upgrade to 97+ front clip and maybe doors/interior too...that would be hella sweet with a v8

and it's a 4 cylinder 5 speed. you can do alot better than a 4 banger for $950

here are the pics

no pictures, but quick update. I began removing the bolts holding the box on today. further looking from the accident shows that the bumper mount area is torn a little bit on both ends of the frame as a result for the accident, and the bumper (mounted with 1/4" steel plate) is bent over 2" to the passenger side. this is going to be alot of work.

I tend to wheel beyond the rigs ability (or even drive beyond it...hence all the motors/trans/rear axles I go through...), so when I screw up :oops: , the plan is to come out of it alive... :cheers: I've got some very nice designs and plans for the truck that should come through within the next couple of months (I have access to a portable hydraulic tube bender right now...)

my buddy Jake is doing a one month wheel-athon next summer from washington down to moab and all the way back up. I was thinking of going with for part of it (most likely the MOAB run, but only with a proper cage)

lol. he kinda was. I think he's more of a dumbass because he locked himself out frequently, and it is very strange when you see a person without a key crawl under their car's transmission, and come out with a key to unlock and start the vehicle...which he did frequently. thought of that too, but most spots are just plain obvious.

I agree. this is for those who have forgotten to do so. I don't keep a key on mine, because a buddy had his car stolen when someone figured out where he hid the key. they found parts of the car later on... so, I keep some sort of wire on the car to open it. I like power locks on our jeeps with vent wing windows, because I can slide a wire in and lift on the lock switch to open the doors :D

you do have to take the big window off the tracks and unbolt it from the regulator in order to remove the vent window.

yup. :agree: I leave my tape in the jeep though... :thumbsup: :doh:

um. sit there and die? if it happened you'd probably deserve it....:P

lose your keys :help: :dunno: :???:? lock yourself out of your vehicle, with the keys inside :waving: ? if you don't want to pay for a locksmith, and don't know how to use a coat hanger through the outside window seal to raise the latch on the key tumbler, then DO NOT break out your front, or rear windows :no: . they are expensive to replace :headpop: . general rule of thumb, the smallest pieces of glass on your vehicle are going to be the most expensive because they do not break often. :smart: instead, choose a different route. break the passenger side window. since you don't sit in that seat anyways :yes: , you aren't worried about the butt splinters that your passengers may get :idea: :eek: :roll: the reason that you break the side window, is that they are largely available at a lower cost, since they are interchangeable with 4dr cherokee windows :yes: . matter of fact, if you run into this situation, pm me...I've got about 10 sets of door windows and fixed vents just waiting for you :waving: :clapping: :cheers: you should note that if you have a sliding rear window, and break the sliding center pane, the whole window must be removed to install the new pane. it costs $160 to have this done, on average. someone here did just that recently... :oops: and so I thought this may help everyone else if you run into the same problem

why do people always choose the most expensive piece of glass to break? okay. next time you lock yourself out and have to break a window, break one window out of your doors. doesn't matter if it's a vent or the full window. they are abundantly available for cheap or free, whereas you pretty much cannot replace the center slider from factory. on the next note, you now have to pay a professional to remove your sliding rear window :headpop: :oops: so that they can install the new center pane of glass that you should pm me about :brows:

legalize it, don't enforce a price cap. drug lords will stop smuggling because, even with taxes, no price cap means that they can demand higher payments to cover the taxes. it would take a couple/few years for everything to smooth over, but it would be well worth it. also, it should be a ticketable offense to drive high without a count above whatever (in whatever scale would be used to measure high-ness...) set it up like it's alcohol.

legalize it, don't enforce a price cap. drug lords will stop smuggling because, even with taxes, no price cap means that they can demand higher payments to cover the taxes. it would take a couple/few years for everything to smooth over, but it would be well worth it. also, it should be a ticketable offense to drive high without a count above whatever (in whatever scale would be used to measure high-ness...) set it up like it's alcohol.

even if it were possible, I'd not want it. it sucks when popups occur all over and you cannot even read what you are trying to read...and that's exactly what those little displays are. maybe I'm lazy, but the extra effort taken to find a blank spot so I can read something annoys me.