JeepcoMJ

riddle me this; how is the cross shaft? this is the lower shaft which has gears permanently attached to it. tell me which gear you need, and what number it is on the shaft (i.e. 2nd forward from the midplate), and tell me how your cross shaft and synchro looks. if you get decent pics, you can email them to me at snow_freak20@hotmail.com if you'd like. that may be easier. I've wrecked 3 or 4 ax5's and I have two good ones here, and all of the gears in front of the midplate are the same. I only have one set of shifter forks for a 5 speed, but it's a complete set. do you have the means to pull the gears (rather, to press them) off of the shaft? if not, I could make this easier and just build you a good gear cluster and send you that with a good cross shaft if you'd send me back your damaged cluster and cross shaft plus some cash. I'd get to this in about two weeks.

okay. what parts do you need? take pics, I've got good gears, synchro, and shift fork. 2wd or 4wd, which shift fork is bad? let me know

check out your steering stabilizer too.

most of us won't tackle a regear. we just swap axles. it's actually cheaper.

my dad is going to acid wash the borla and downpipe and clamps at work on monday for me, so I couldn't bolt down the intake and exhaust today...but I got the water pump sealed up, cleaned up the throttle body, fuel rail, injectors, and valve cover and painted them today. here's the results. the fuel rail is the only thing so far to get straight gloss black I'll be putting the dizzy on in the morning, with the dipstick tube. then I'm cleaning the a/c compressor and mounting it. I'll be making tabs to permanently mount to it for easy engine removal too. it needs to come off of the stand, because the 3800 is coming in on monday to have it's engine removed. it needs to be running and driving by mid-december now since my dad's diesel is about dead. he's going to drive the 3800 while we restore the smoker. I'm going to be working on a tractor tomorrow, and we have to re-organize the shop tomorrow and get rid of everything that's in it that can be put in the barn. then we can get all of these projects done.

I really want to add you to my foe's list... just wasted SOOO much time...

looking pretty sweet!

it remains in your outbox until the person you sent it to reads it.

it needs to be sealed properly...so driving with the cap off isn't good.

just have a simple press, and some 1/4" angle iron, and a small square brass block. works just fine for removing all of the gears.

clutch-to-floor safety is not on any of my MJ's. matter of fact, I've never once seen an xj or mj with it that's pre-1995

if you go with any of the 97+ stuff, you have to swap ALL of it. there's no mix and match between 92 to 96 wiring and 97+ wiring...all goes with the same year and parts. so, dash, heater box, engine, trans, transfercase, wiring, computers, sensors. all needs to go in your MJ. and, it won't be as bad as you think since you have both vehicles there.

there is, however it doesn't really do much, if anything. it's simply a switch titled NSS that the parts stores like to tell us we need (this is my suspicion) anyways, the NSS is on the passenger side of the transmission, right in front of the transmisison cooling lines. it is shaped like a baseball diamond and is mounted to the same shaft as the shifter cable is. I have not once had luck getting them off in one piece, so I just bypass them when they fail. B and C black wires (at least in a 95) together on the connector, solves the problem. there are several write-ups on cleaning them. it is a $120 part, so cleaning is the best fix if it's not too fubar. write-ups on MADXJ and GOJEEP If I remember correctly...

exactly. I'm taking care of my truck, so that it will let me know when it needs me to take more care of it :roll:

yes. underneath the kneeboard (i.e. under the ash tray) there are two screws on a black plastic box on the front. remove that box. go get one from a cherokee, and block off the rear heater tube part for it. install then install the center console.

thanks. you're literally the first person who has liked the colour lol. I figured that all combined, it would turn out well. I can now do a light spray with low pressure water and engine degreaser every once in awhile, and avoid any buildup of oil/grease/etc. the paint I'm using is just engine enamel from advanced auto. I was going to mix some up and spray it with a gun, but my hectic schedule would screw me over on paint costs...since it would go bad before it all gets used.

got the necessary power steering bracket today, then blasted it and all of the pulleys, and modified the pump to work. for those of you upgrading to this serpentine tensioner bracket, the only necessary modifications to the steering pump is to put a newer pulley on it, and drill out the threads in the three mounting holes. then bolt it in. now, only one bolt needs to be adjusted in order to swap the serpentine. everything is mounted for mockup right now. what's left is to install the water pump with gasket and torque it to specs, clean up the intake/exhaust flanges, install them with the gasket and torque to spec, mount the p/s pump and bracket permanently, install the thermostat and housing, wire brush the distributor and install, wire brush the a/c pump and mount, remount the oil dipstick, fill with oil and prime the system, bead blast the valve cover and have it air brushed (a family friend is putting flames on it :D) then install it, install throttle body, new O-rings for the injectors. then take it off the stand, install flexplate. from there, clean up the trans, paint the bellhousing black, install new front seal and filter kit on the trans, clear coat the transmission, and put it all back together. the transfercase will be orange, but the SYE output will be clear coated aluminum.

*sigh* take the bottom of the heater box off. it takes two phillips screws. it does not fit right now because it is pushed back around 2" this is the ONLY problem you have right now.

pretty sweet so far. I like the color.

SWEET!

why do you guys trim them down? just put the cherokee heater box bottom on it, then block off the port leading to the rear.

nice work so far! any more pics of the side skids and hoop? a tip on the H.O. upgrade...you will need every engine bay part, including radiator hoses, heater box hoses, and radiator and reservoir from a H.O. jeep. then, you will need the entire dash wiring harness and all of the H.O. accessories as some wiring did change. and, the H.O. gives you an electronic speedometer and so you will need that, and you will need the sending unit and transmission harness pigtail. it's not compatible with what you currently have for wiring.

:shake: I disagree. read what I said, it contradicts what you said I disagree...I've got 4.10 gears on 33" tires, and only run 2300 rpm at 65mph...that's back at factory gear ratio. I'd like a little deeper for wheeling, and the truck can stand 2800 RPM at interstate speeds. I currently HAVE 4.10 gears with 33" tires. Based on the performance of my truck, I think the gearing is too light for 33" tires, so I'm going down to 4.56 gears the first chance I get, and NOT upping my tire size. therefore, I do respectfully disagree with you.

never even heard of those, much less seen them in a jeep. only seen ax5/ax4 and t5 but no t4...and that's with parting a few 84-86's and many renix-era's geonovast, I missed the year mark. don't bother with the AX15 upgrade...I cannot even begin to find a bellhousing for mine, and I need one badly.

this is true...if the 6 cylinder is a 4.0. IF the 6 cylinder 5 speed combination you are looking at getting is a 2.8 liter v6 from an 84-86 cherokee, or 86 comanche, then it is nearly 90% likely the same transmission. the only variance could be that it could have a T5 instead of an AX5 (jeep ran out of AX5's at one point and made a substitution). so, you're looking for any 4 cylinder jeep transmission (2.5 liter), or a 2.8 v6 jeep transmission (AX5)