JeepcoMJ

I disagree...I've got 4.10 gears on 33" tires, and only run 2300 rpm at 65mph...that's back at factory gear ratio. I'd like a little deeper for wheeling, and the truck can stand 2800 RPM at interstate speeds.

right. and I have an xj transfercase skid plate ON MY TRUCK. it was bolt-on. just had to tap the factory holes.

about to do this...:D

:oops: thanks. I always forget that we have a DIY here...

:oops: I forgot he had one.

SOA at 4.5" of lift will be a bit too high for 4.5" of lift. however, SOA is fairly cheap to do, and with the savings of not purchasing rear springs ($300 at least), you could justify the extra 2" of lift to 6.5" at that point, I would put 33" tires under the jeep, with 4.56 gears. 4.10's would be more suitable to my 4.5" of lift idea.

I picked up an aftermarket steering box a few weeks ago...I believe it's an ACR or something like that. can't recall right now. anyways, last trail run the 87's 4.0 took a dive for the worse and has been steadily declining ever since. so, I bought a 95 H.O. motor and am upgrading it to a 2000 intake etc. on that same trip, the steering box also was going bad, and this aftermarket box was a great deal. I wish I could recall the name right now. I remember that it needs either the same brand steering pump, OR you can mod your factory pump to work. does anyone know how to modify a 1995 p/s pump to have a higher flow, and any other mods that there are for this? thanks, Pat

yup. put a 4.5" lift on it with 31" or 32" tires, and disconnects. don't put nerf bars on it, but do get some rock sliders. heavy duty bumpers regear to 4.56 :D

really? ...I have an xj skid plate on my MJ. :dunno:

lol. thanks. here's the pics... here is how close it gets to the header, and where I had to clearance it to fit how dirty the intake was to begin with and how it came out.

:wall: :doh: so I cleaned the 2000 wrangler intake today, and mounted it an the borla up. had some clearance issues, but I managed to grind off a bit of the intake, and put a bit of a divot in the header to make it work. hopefully this won't affect performance much or at all. but...after doing all the work, I realized that I have a problem. up to 1997, 4.0's used the power steering pump as the serpentine belt tensioner. with a 2000 intake, I don't have that option....luckily I have the tensioner bracket, but this means I have to get all new a/c pump and bracket, and alternator :rant: :headpop: I'll post pics in a bit...

:cheers:

vacuum canister. you need it to supply vacuum to your heater core. I relocate mine into the engine bay somewhere.

yup, and now it can go in someone else's vehicle. if I have to do a complete rebuild on the truck, it's getting an update too :D

thanks. I painted it white to keep with the body colours, and because I can now see any leaks that may develop. black doesn't offer that virtue...and the only reason that the valve cover is black is because I won't see any leaks on it (most likely). new camera is in the budget soon, but I need a GPS first. project88...no on the chrome, but yes on black. perhaps. I started steel wooling it tonight and it looks like I can get the header cleaned and polished that way...

where do you go to check what plates are available? wisconsin DMV site doesn't seem to show any...

great. it still needs to be done, if I'm gonna do this project properly...exhaust paint doesn't stay on and ends up looking like crap. hmm. maybe I could get a discount for having the ones on the 3800 done at the same time...

hey all. I just picked up a complete 1995 xj drivetrain with a mopar reman 4.0 that's bored .030 from what I can find. it's everything I need to convert my 87 MJ to HO. anyways, I tore the motor down to the longblock and left the pan on, because it only has 3k miles on it...and I'm painting it. here's how it looks right now that borla header looks lonely. it's just a little bit scuffed/dirty/rusty-ish and I'd like to know of something permanent to fix the problem. I was thinking of powder coating or a ceramic coat or something. any ideas?

how does your brake pedal feel? brake booster leak perhaps? vacuum canister leak?

a leaky master cylinder that has been leaking for a long time, will leak clutch fluid into your fuse box. clutch fluid (brake fluid) is corrosive, and eats away at the electrical connections. so, it likely has alot to do with the problem. if, say, your horn wire became corroded enough to brake off of it's connection, and drop down to contact say, a battery connection...it would short out enough to cause your issues. clean the fuse box. it won't be a fun job either. as for the steering column, that is just as likely. tear it apart and look at the horn connection. you should just have to take the horn button/cover off to get at that.

more progress that borla header looks lonely. it's just a little bit scuffed/dirty/rusty-ish and I'd like to know of something permanent to fix the problem. I was thinking of powder coating or a ceramic coat or something. any ideas?

wire it up, take precautions to make sure it can't tip, buck, explode, or otherwise ruin your day. my solution is to just cut the front off of a parts jeep and keep it in the shop :P

it's not flaming. I am going simply by what that specific pump is designed for. by putting it outside the pump, you are adding more variables to a pump which is not designed for that environment. it may well work just fine, but I am making an active attempt to have you be aware of the simple fact that the manufacture of the vehicle designed the vehicle in a way which put that pump IN the tank. they have their reasons for this, and while you may not be aware of any issues, the potential of you encountering them is much greater than those of us who run our pumps as per manufacturer's intent. I think your pump will burn out due to cooling issues. it likely will not start a fire, but with those contacts not being protected, and the fairly likely scenario of fuel vapors, you could have one hell of a bonfire.

picked up the new motor from TNT saturday morning. genuine mopar reman... .020 bore, borla header, 62mm bored throttle body. from a 1995 xj, the motor was built in 2002 according to the tags, but only has 3k miles on it. came with all wiring (including power windows, locks, mirrors, and overhead console plus gauge cluster interior and engine wiring and computers) and headliner, and downpipe. M.O.R.E. motor mounts also were included, as well as a 90k mile aw4 23 spline from the same vehicle. pics. stripped to just the engine, painted white. oil pan will be orange, valve cover in black with the high points sanded. this is how clean the engine really is...look at the inside of the valve cover valve train painted. on to oil pan pile of parts that need to be cleaned I'm adding a second a/c compressor to the right of the factory one for OBA, and relocating one battery to the driver's side, and one in the bed. both will be deep cycle blue top optimas. I'm told this won't be an issue with heavy wiring, and will help ALOT with all of the aftermarket electronics (winches etc.) I'll be getting some more done today, when I wake up. then I won't be back til this weekend from work, and I'll get the motor done then. it's getting a 1997+ 4.0 intake as well, and will eventually be stroked.

1) I don't think vw cabriolets are girly, and want to get another one 2) I'm single (probably plays off of me being kind of a fool :redX: ) 3) 89eliminator got me addicted to wheeling 4) I now have $3500 into my 87 MJ, and over $8k into the 3800...and neither of them run and drive too well right now 5) I used to be a swimmer, lifeguard, and am advanced open water certified...and have free dove to a depth of 74 feet, in not-so-warm water