JeepcoMJ

I'm just gonna duct tape the axles on on a serious note, the regear is a ways off...I need the HO swap done in the next couple weekends so I can start driving it, and the 3800 has to be running and driving again by christmas. it's a possibility that I may convince the ol' man to trade me the diesel for the 3800....and a nice restored/slightly lifted factory diesel highly appeals to me

welcome! you're already ahead of the game...new member, two MJ's, one built, and you've rolled a jeep (that wasn't an MJ) :thumbsup: haha. looks like the TJ should buff right out :clapping:

thought so because of the decals. it's pretty darn cool. I like it.

very nice! what year is it?

http://www.atom.com/funny_videos/interaction_wife_102/ :clapping: :yes: :rotf: :shake: :wavey: :wall: :doh: :rotfl2: :fool: :dunce:

:agree: When you reassemble the engine, all rod cap nuts, main bearing bolts and head bolts should have oil on the threads - not Loctite. This is done so that you get a smooth and accurate torque on those fasteners with no binding. As for the bearings, it looks like there was little or no assembly lube applied before assembly. Dry bearings make for a tight engine and speedy bearing wear. When you reassemble, make sure that you lube the bearings before you lay the crank in the block and the rod bearings and caps as well with either the mix that Eagle suggested or a commercial assembly lube. While you have the crankshaft out it would be wise to pull the camshaft and lube those bearings too. You will already have the timing chain off to remove the crankshaft, and the cam shaft just slides out the front of the block. Also, when you have the engine installed in your truck, before you attempt to crank it, and before you install the distributor, prime the entire engine with oil using a long screwdriver with the handle broken off and attached to an electric drill. to that in bold: yup, BUT remember that this means a light film of oil. DO NOT pour oil into the bolt locations on the block. matter of fact, anywhere a bolt goes into a hole, blow out with air and brake clean...if it has any liquid in it, the liquid with the bolt will have a hydraulic effect, meaning that torque readings will in no way be accurate nor acceptable. to that underlined: Yes! great Idea :clapping: :cheers: :bowdown: this is something I have done on all motors I'm building (provided they have a distributor)...it's a great way to that first AWESOME start on the motor. just insert the flathead screwdriver (with broken off handle) into the keyway on the oil pump through the distributor hole, fill the engine with a few quarts of oil, and spin it around according to distributor rotation (clockwise I believe, but double check to be sure). when done, put the motor to TDC at piston number one, and adjust the key and the distributor accordingly. there is a 50/50 chance of getting the dizzy set right. the last piece of advice I have regarding pre-lube, is to do it while the valve cover is off. this way you can check to be sure that oil is coming through all of your lifters properly :thumbsup: :banana:

BAHAHA http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fusea ... d=46721190 I want one. I could set one up with 3.73 revolutions per wheel turn!

shoulda followed him, and gotten his insurance...idk about there, but round here, if you chip a window, you're the one to pay.

sweet!

lol, thanks. I'll not be selling the gears...$850 into them plus the axle, and I'd spend whatever $$$ i make on the gears just to replace them, so they'll stay in the axle... I've found that it should run around 2600 rpm on 33's at 65-70mph, and get roughly 17mpg while doing so. I need new tires anyways, so the option I've decided to go with is to run 34" tires with a 1" spacer kit up front, and 4wd leafs in the rear (plus shackles maybe), then trim and bumpstop accordingly. that should drop it another 100 rpm, and give me pretty darn decent mileage around 55mph

dream job? I have absolutely no idea. I'm only 21, and really don't care much about work to be honest. that said, I HATE my job. it could be worse, it could be better. I install/service coca-cola machines at resteraunts such as McDonalds etc. it sucks, and I hate soda syrup. Only doing this job so I can pay off school and my debts and get back to square one...which I'm pretty close to doing. I'm with the job until my summer job starts back up...I lifeguard. used to teach swim lessons, but decided I don't like kids enough to teach someone else's kid to flounder around in the pool, so I haven't turned in my past year and a half worth of swim lessons paperwork to the Red Cross. this means that my certs for WSI will expire. Don't get me wrong, I want to have kids, and already even thought of names and how many...I love kids, just not 50 kids a day 5 days a week. I work on vehicles...from snowmobiles, quads, motorcycles, etc. to Jeeps and even some imports. however, I don't like working on OTHER people's vehicles, unless they're a good friend. I have anxiety issues; when something goes wrong, I get frustrated and angry, and simply cannot cope. it's best at that point to take a break, which is why I like working on my own things; I can take a break and not get fired for taking 15 hours on a 10 hour job. so, mechanics on a professional level is out. I was a marine bio major, then realized that I enjoy scuba diving and keeping an aquarium, but wouldn't want to do it every day of my life. so, I finally went to see my advisor and low and behold, I didn't realize that I have a minor in Spanish from walking in the door at UW-Whitewater and taking a test, then completing two jerk-off classes. matter of fact, I'm 5 classes from a major in Spanish. so, that's what I will do. couple that with a minor in criminal justice, and I can tell all the illegals to leave our country in their own language, or promote large dispersal of green cards; I'm not too sure on my stance there yet. so, it boils down to this; I don't care what I do for a living. The only things I care about when it comes to a job, is that I start at a certain time, end at a certain time, and when I leave work, I leave work AT work. work following me home doesn't appeal to me. I also must have two full days off (read days...normal hours) a week. none of this switching schedules left and right like I'm currently doing....I haven't had a full weekend in 4 weeks...leaving everything to get done on saturdays. sorry for the bitterness guys

you will have to grind around the lip of your bumpstop mounts to fit the ZJ coils in. it wasn't fun when Joe and I put the coils in his ZJ coils. net lowering was something like 3" or so, and it gave the truck a nice rake even with saggy 2wd rear springs.

hmm. I'll just keep the 30 unless I get a killer deal on a 44. I don't need to add more $$$ to the list.

ah. any interchange to 5 on 5?

is the waggy 44 a 5 on 5 bolt pattern? I have a set of 17" rubicon's that are that pattern...so, I could re-drill it to that, and just do some spacers in the rear. if it's wider, I'd want to space the rear out to match...

So along with my other extreme list of mods to the truck, I just bought a xj 44 rear with 4.88's, welded, disc conversion, and matching 4.88 gears for the front with setup/install kit. this is all new with zero miles anyways, The truck is an 87 swb with dana 44 rear and 4.10 gears, and 33" tires...but they're bald and need replacing by spring. I'm running 6.5" of lift on shortarms, and am not into trimming excessively. power is no problem...It's mid-HO conversion with a punched 4.0 with borla, 62mm TB, 2k intake, etc. what size tires do I need in order to run decent RPM at 65 mph? I don't mind if it's 2700 or 2800 rpm, but as it is with 33's and 4.88's I think I'd be somewhere around 4000...and that's no good. the truck won't be driven on the interstate regularly, but if I don't have a tow rig/trailer, I still need to get the 4 hours to McCaslin, Rib Lake, or Attica. similarly, what size tires do you think I can fit in there? I'm thinking I should longarm it and lift it another couple of inches... as I say, I don't want to trim up the body...at least not the bed. front fenders I could care less about. the inner fenders will be trimmed for clearance too. also, I'm keeping the dana 30 front, unless I can sell the gears and get a waggy 44 front or something along those lines, shorten it, and regear it. does anyone have full info on what needs to be done regarding shortening the axle? I don't need specs or anything on mounting it...that's easy. but, turning and shortening then getting the right shafts made, and if the hubs can be altered to be a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. Thanks, Pat

check out Hanneman MJ bedsides...there is no need to modify the wrong part to fit, when the right part is already made.

Bumper to Bumper. I'm going in tomorrow and will check for you if nothing else, I should have one in the near future

a cherokee tank would work, but you'd have to rework the bracing a bit, and make bracketry for the straps. this idea would SUCK in a longbed if you were going to wheel it...you'd leak gas everywhere, even with a skid :ack: . you would also need to add a second filler neck...no one in their right mind would trust 6 or more feet of rubber to send gas to a tank :doh: as for the diesel...there is a diesel MJ sitting in my dad's shop right now. if you have questions about them, ask away. it's not for sale, and you'll have little luck finding one...there are somewhere between 13 and 17 diesel MJ's in the states that I can find. British Ontario is the best bet to locate one, but the next best bet is to get a 4 cylinder MJ, and find a 2.1 litre TD xj from the 85-88 vintage, and swap the parts over. those are rare, but not impossible to find. also, I second the statement on expensive parts...a head is $1200 used in good shape, $1900 new IF you can find one. Winnebago Lesharo's used the same motor with a smaller turbo, so that's your best bet for parts. the block is aluminum with a cast drop-in sleeve, and a gasket set for it is upwards of $400, and there are several variances so you need to be correct on gaskets or you'll detonate. common problems are starter failure (leading to destroyed ring gear), cracked cylinders, cracked precups, and stuck wastegates. we have 250k on ours, and lucked out finding a BRAND NEW motor for it for $75 sitting on a guy's trailer (he gave up trying to use it on a log splitter right after purchasing it in 1987)...it just needs new gaskets, as we tore it down to inspect it. :cheers: -Pat

don't buy that rear panel, that's not on a comanche. and, there is no cheap lift. you're going to spend a grand on a decent lift BEFORE TIRES. desert racing is NOT the place to go cheap on.

crank = $224, $34 core charge head/intake/exhaust gasket set = $103.99 conversion gasket set (lower end) $36.99 rings = $214.99 (holy effing shizer...) fuel rail O-rings $6.24 performance oil pump = kit $61.99 timing chain kit = $93.99 that's already $743...I don't want to spend that much, but I don't want to take it apart again. here is where the water was sitting up in the intake getting it torn down a bit intake is a bit wet.... empty engine bay bottom end open not as bad as I thought it would be, but I'd hoped to just clean it up and put new bearings in...

nice job, but that's a dana 35 rear and a dana 30 front...

I'll post pics when I get a chance, but basically I got the motor out of it today, took the new motor for the 87 off the engine stand, mounted it up, took off all of the accessories, and got the oil pan off. the number 3 and 4 connecting rods seemed looser than the others, so I popped the caps off. there was also anti-freeze in the intake, which I attribute to the TB gasket (the TB is liquid cooled :nuts: ), and it doesn't appear to have messed up much if anything. thank god, the bearings haven't spun in ANY of the connecting rods. the number 3 bearing is junk, and the crank would need to be machined in order to be used. so, I have to buy a crankshaft (easier than just having it machined, and new parts are good), but will not have to get any new connecting rods. the whole rebuild with new rings, crank, timing chain, oil pump, main and con. rod bearings, and gasket set, should only cost $500 roughly. I am gonna completely tear the motor down to a bare block and clear out all of the oil passages, and I will look into cams..it appears to have a comp. cam already.

LCA body side brackets. there are two bolts on the back of the bracket itself. if you put the frame up on jacks, loosen those two bolts, then loosen the main LCA body-side bolt, you can add or remove shims from that location. there's a small bracket inside which slides around.

i like it very much how much did it cost for you? I payed $350 but it's hit a few deer (not like that mattered to the bumper at all), and been used for a few years. I repainted it and mounted it and the lights, and the clevis wait until you see the rear bumper I'm gonna build :D