JeepcoMJ

this is a write-up from a TJ and i'm fairly sure that they bolt the same as an xj http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/forum.php?page=durango-ps

correct. for the easiest conversion, get one with the same motor/trans combo as yours (obviously 4wd instead). around here I could pick something like that up for $300 and remove the rust...er...body...off of the engine, trans, and front axle. food for thought; get one with the same gear ratio as yours. otherwise you'll also have to swap rear axles, and weld new perches on the rear since XJ's are SOA while MJ's are spring-under.

and, in my opinion at least, if you ever need to work on your steering box, it's just time to replace it...cherokee and comanche steering boxes are EVERYWHERE and easy to replace. or you can upgrade to a durango steering box :D

the unichip is an ECU timing chip, or adjustable computer chip of sorts which can piggy back your factory system when using a stroker motor, and give you better control over how the engine runs, plus increase it's efficiency and power. as for the intake, in 1997 or 98 the cherokee had it's head changed from the H.O. head to meet emissions standards...the result was loss of power, so they added did some porting and flow work on a newer designed intake to make up the difference. I don't recall the exact horsepower gains from a newer cherokee intake, but it's upwards of 5hp i believe, and can be re-ported to add more. it's a very well designed intake.

control arms will be the lowers will be around 17 and 3/16", while the uppers will be around 15 and 5/8" long from center of bolt to center of bolt. you won't find a fixed set that are those exact measurements. my suggestion, buy some adjustables that are for between 4.5" to 6.5" of lift. the other thing you can do would be to run some control arm drop brackets...which will improve handling with short arms at 6.25" of lift...6" of lift and higher kinda sucks for handling with short arms. I'd buy the Rough Country adjustable control arms. idk how adjustable your track bar is, but you may need to replace that, and you will also need to either extend your brake hoses, drop them lower (if you can), or get new lines (jeep wrangler YJ lines from 87-95 work well). transmission. well, idk if yours is a auto, 5 speed, or what motor you even have, so I can't tell you that...

keep in mind that the pilot bearing is only a problem if switching from a ba10/5 5 speed manual transmission to an ax15 5 speed manual. if you're keeping the same transmission that is in the vehicle, it is a non-issue. automatics don't have pilot bearings, so the problem is nil there too.

and DON'T take the bolts on top of the box off. you'll need a pickle fork and hammer, or a hammer and cro-bar to get the tie rod end off of it. grab the spacer between the box and frame rail as well. you may find that yours disintegrates when you remove it, so having a spare is a good thing.

this is why we have plasma cutters.

first lift advice is to DUMP anything that you have made by RUSTY"s CRAP. there's a reason it's called rusty's. next, i hope to hell that you have aftermarket control arms... then on to what you'll need. transmission. no, your transmission will not work with a transfercase. transfercase front driveshaft rear driveshaft (they are different, you will have to have yours shortened after you finish with everything else 4x4 shifter and linkage. including the body-side pivot bracket (bolted to the trans-tunnel) front axle. end-to-end. you will need the brake rotors and calipers from the 4wd axle as well. depending on whether or not your front axle is a disconnect axle, you may need the vacuum hoses etc. if you intend to do a stock build. if you use a disconnect axle with the vacuum hoses, you also need the transfercase equipped for that option. otherwise, you can remove the vacuum part by locking it over, or installing a non-disconnect shaft.

I haven't done it, but I have gotten 26mpg in my truck. That's with tired 275k injectors in it which I'll be replacing soon. And it's a longbed 4x4. A really healthy 2wd swb should be able to out-mpg my truck, fwiw. That's a renix/5 speed truck also. If any style 4.0l mj is gonna turn such a number, it would be a truck like that. pfft. yea, after a regear to 3.55 gears. 5 speed 4.0 means 3.07 gears, which just SUCK regardless.

the first one is sweet with the 2500 front end

...I'm sold on this mod... :cheers:

you got it. I have trans temp and OBA in the gauge pod but not hooked up just yet. want fuel gauge, engine temp., oil pressure, voltage, tack, speedo.

I figure on running them in a factory setup, by simply removing the messge center from the factory cluster and mounting it, then making a panel which will bolt in where the old gauges were, and I have a gauge pod on the A-pillar to house one more gauge. also will build a center console and can house gauges there too, or where the clock goes.

I want my gauges to be more accurate than factory gauges. in a recent thread regarding auxillary fans http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... hp?t=11871 it's been very apparent that factory gauges are not all that accurate. what are good aftermarket gauges to buy, that won't break the bank?

thanks...definitely gonna have to look into it soon.

neither of them are worth anything (or at least not enough for this anyways). the 87 has to stay as it's my only driver, and the 3800 has a blown motor, leaky trans, damaged rear quarter panel, and rusty cab corners. It's been here a long time...

your lean is caused by the rusty frame most likely...check that everything matches.

factory puller, hardwired using a relay. manual control only...i know better than my computer when it's running hot.

well, 6mph off means you're something like 12% off roughly. so, take every FULL TANK and refill it to full. then multiply the miles travelled on the previous tank, and multiply times 1.12 ...then divided that number by the amount of gallons you used to fill the tank. so, 186 miles x 1.12= 208.32miles 11.07 gallons = 18.81842818428184281842... should figure out which speedo gear you need and replace it. the 3800 was off by 13% and i was getting 19mpg before doing the math. anyways, my 87 is 4.0 auto 4wd 4.10 gears 33x10.50's and it averages 17mpg, though i have gotten 18mpg in town and 21 on the highway. it also runs like crap and needs new o2 sensors, coolant flush, and needs a rear main pretty bad.

well, 6mph off means you're something like 12% off roughly. so, take every FULL TANK and refill it to full. then multiply the miles travelled on the previous tank, and multiply times 1.12 ...then divided that number by the amount of gallons you used to fill the tank. so, 186 miles x 1.12= 208.32miles 11.07 gallons = 18.81842818428184281842... should figure out which speedo gear you need and replace it. the 3800 was off by 13% and i was getting 19mpg before doing the math. anyways, my 87 is 4.0 auto 4wd 4.10 gears 33x10.50's and it averages 17mpg, though i have gotten 18mpg in town and 21 on the highway. it also runs like crap and needs new o2 sensors, coolant flush, and needs a rear main pretty bad.

oh. um. yea...so what does surgery on a hernia cost? zero insurance btw...which is why i haven't attended to it (I cannot afford any more debt...)

um... so you're telling me that the golf-ball sized hernia that I've got, should be fixed or it will get worse....? :roll: not even kidding.

did he look angry? maybe he wanted to get your attention about something... as for jerkarse drivers...i've been one, been in an accident that one caused, and since them i drive cautious.

bumper installed if you notice, there are four fog lights on it. rather, two fog lights underneeth hidden behind expanded sheet steel, and two right near the turn signals. also have my OBA tank btw i wear size 11.5 shoes... tomorrow I'm doing the rear main, painting the oil pan, and hopefully gonna get the cooling system flushed