JeepcoMJ

good enough for me. consider them gone. I always remove them. I think they're useless as their described function. As to how they help with cooling, could you elaborate please? Something to do with directing air to the centre of the rotor so it is channelled back out through the vents (in a vented rotor)? Anyways, never had a problem with them off. bingo. on performance vehicles with slotted rotors they help cooling tremendously, and they probably even help a bit on our trucks. I wasn't too concerned about that on these though

that doesnt make sense. i think you meant to say that blocks only work for spring-over vehicles. :doh: yes, I meant sprung-over is what they work on. oops :oops:

that alone would probably do it. use Ultrablack rtv because basic black RTV isn't rated for oil exposure, and eventually wears down if not immediately. as for why it is leaking... did you put the top half of the seal in the right way? it can go in two ways, and only one of them is correct. if you put it in the wrong way, there is a small gap on either side right where the two halves meet, and it will leak like a siv. (if you did this, buy a new seal do not attempt to re-use the one that is in it currently)

pete, keep your spare paint in a heated area all winter and it should at least be somewhat useable for a second coat. I'd even venture to say that if you kept stirring it frequently, it would last longer and not seperate. that's how the touchup paint for the 3800 was...made a 6 month touchup quart last close to a year with that technique, and it was single stage with hardener.

good enough for me. consider them gone.

are there any adverse affects of removing the dust shields on the disc brakes of our trucks? I wheeled this weekend and got some helacious squealing from the front brakes when rocks (pebbles) got stuck up between the shield and various components of the brakes. so, I'm wanting to just ditch them alltogether. two things I know in advance; they technically help with cooling (there's not much help they can do there with our trucks) when removing them I would need to cut the middles out and use them as spacers for the wheel hubs I'm converting to discs in the rear as well, so this is a plan on everything. oh, they also get bent/broken when dragging an axle around... :oops:

what, freight being his 250-lb glow-stick-wearing girlfriend?

blocks only work for lift on a sprung-over vehicle. unfortunately, our trucks are sprung-under, so any blocks would actually lower the truck. for our trucks, without being converted to sprung-over, the only options are extended shackles, add-a-leafs, or new springs. if you convert them to sprung over, you gain 4.5" to 6" lift depending on what kind of spring perches you use/make. at that point, I would highly suggest that you do not use blocks or spacers as they increase the likelihood of axle-wrap.

he means he threw it in his bed :P

I have the same issue with my 87 the engine hadn't run in 8 years before I got it, and before I got it a bunch of illegals tried to fix it and screwed it all up. I attribute it to sitting and shrugged it off..far as I'm concerned, renix is pretty much crap so I'll be dropping a H.O. stroker with 1995 H.O. wiring and all in the truck within a month or two. I haven't got a "real" cat... the only main things that would cause the dogginess (since the 4.0 is in general a decent motor) would be clogged catalytic converter, or bad shift solenoids/TCU.

well, if your shortbed deal falls through I've got one...my longbed isn't driveable so I couldn't bring it to you. I'd not have any problem with small holes, just meant if it were mis-treated etc. that I'd want it fixed up...kind of a standard contract type of deal, and I would have to say I don't expect anything to go wrong in your guys' hands. -Pat

hmm. when 9/11 happened, a local set up a scarecrow similarly , with a turbine on it's head, then set up another one with it's boot up the arab-crow's @$$. the other one was clothed as Uncle Sam. I took no offense, rather, I supported it and went to thank the owners of the house. as for this one, I just think it's damned hilarious and the person who responded is a retard who probably hasn't had a date in...hmm...well...EVER

wow, one of the responders is almost as much of a 'tard as the owner is.

1991 4 cylinders don't have EGR. they are high output correy, I thought I gave you a spare CPS for your 4 banger to use on andre's xj? even so, a 4.0 HO cps is the same as a mpfi 4 cylinder cps. I have spares of that, likewise you should too.

you don't have to drain the coolant to do this project. first, remove the dash. to remove the dash, you need a 15mm socket or wrench, and a phillips head screwdriver as well as a 5/16" socket plus long extension. first remove the dash bezel, gauge cluster, radio, switch panels (if you have factory switches), clock, cig lighter, and heater controls. remove the top panel over your defroster vents as well. unbolt the steering column supports from the dash mount with the 15mm, then remove the two 15mm bolts holding the sides of the dash to the side of the cab. remove the four 5/16" screws that hold the METAL tabs up by the defroster vents. do not remove the plastic ones yet (you will once the dash is out) from there, pull the dash forward and disconnect the wiring from it. pull the wiring off, then pull the dash up over the steering column and out the passenger side door. from here, remove the upper vent tubes from the cab, then disconnect the box from the cab via the 6 (or 7) nuts holding it through the firewall. disconnect the heater/a/c lines from the firewall, and then disconnect the wiring for the heaterbox. from here, you're on your own. I just replace bad boxes, have never needed to completely rebuild one. re-assemble in opposite order. after 7 or 8 dashes, I can have a dash and heaterbox out in around 20 minutes if I book it and use a screw gun.

...I got around 15mpg, but NOTHING was running right on my truck this trip out.

thanks pete!

buy a complete jeep cherokee 4.0 swap EVERYTHING over from the cherokee to the comanche. it is all direct bolt-in, but the wiring is different. so the interior has to come out on both vehicles, swap the engine transmission shifters and linkages (depending on what you have i.e. manual/auto you will need to swap pedal assemblies) motor mounts radiators (remove the 2.5 rad support and bolt the 4.0 in) transfercase dash wiring and accessories including gauges headlight wiring engine bay wiring and accessories you will need to cut the cherokee tail light harness out and splice the comanche one in, as well as swap the pump on the sending unit and splice the power for it into the 4.0 harness but, with any year 1987 up, it is all direct swap. 1984 to 1986 cherokees, and 86 comanches require header panel work.

hard to tell, we have just a front pic so if you supplied another pic it will help. best bet, those look like ARB front bumper mounts to me, but I have NO IDEA where they were mounted on the jeep that you took them off of. could you describe where they were and supply more pics?

business man. set points of understanding so that both parties agree who is to accept responsibility for mishandling, damage during shipping etc. I'm not too worried, I trust JCR

very nice! what 3 speed auto do you have in it? or did you mean the AW4 with 3 speeds plus overdrive? just checking.

what's it worth? keeping....it's worth keeping

I'm located in SE wisconsin and could probably be persuaded to part with my 87 for a few weeks...I have a company vehicle for weekdays, and I don't have anywhere to go too soon. I need to do some things to it first, and would expect that you cover ANYTHING that goes wrong, to my satisfaction. personally I don't necessarily need the product, I'm more concerned about my truck retaining it's current condition. it is rust free and the only things that have been trimmed are the very front of the fenders to fit the bumper.

I cannot differentiate blue from grey, ...I like the new forum, but simply need one bright color for the topics/titles etc, and one dark color for the information contained. I agree about the post seperations...thicker and wider line would be great other than that, I'm happy with it

Here I thought you were going to say something about the daughter. :D If you remember, in the 80's, riding in the bed was still done a lot. Oh wait, I guess you wouldn't remember that much. j/k Pat ;) :cheers: haha. 1987 all the way baby. and no, I have better taste than that for sure...