JeepcoMJ

1st: don't ask for canard parts at the parts store. it's a double cardan shaft. bad idea to do it the way you did. yes, they do sell the parts BUT now you need to replace all of the ujoints you had previously put in. easiest solution, take it to a driveshaft shop and have them rebuild and rebalance it. it shouldn't cost more than $100 with all brand new greasable HIGH QUALITY ujoints and will last you another 100k miles at least.

mathematics my friend. if your speedometer is off you can figure out how far it's off fairly easily. I don't recall the equation right now, but hopefully geonovast the mathematical wizard will figure it out. now, the easiest way to figure it (my way) is to plug the gps in, flip it to show the little mph reading, and drive. my 87 is off by 1.5 mph. the 3800 is off by something like 13%. so, at 13% multiplied times normal miles per tank which is 380 = (49.4+380) which = (429.4/gallons which is 16gal) = 26.8375 the 87 I get basically 17 to 21 with it varying. well, that was before the swap to High Output so we'll see.

mechanical block-mounted pump. it's all electrical related. after hooking it to a coworker's van (who my boss made drive 4.5 hours to jump) for 4 hours along with a battery charger and heating the block with a torpedo heater aimed at the grille, and dumping a half can of starter fluid in the intake, it finally started. this is a charge related issue...bastard isn't holding more than 12 volts and so it won't turn the motor over on it's own. needs the second battery replaced and at least one ground wire. the spun bearings are a good idea to think about. it's at jerry's automotive now...we managed to get it home. at least the MJ started right up...

yup. thanks for the magnetic heater tip...I may be able to do that. he's not a jerk...and he's fixed the van every time I say there's something wrong with it, except replacing the batteries. last week when I told him they're junk. he'll pay for what we need, the problem is that both my partner and I are...well, broke lol.

it failed out as of yesterday. I think more serious things are at play here. it's easily above zero here (not sure on exact temp), and it's been plugged in over 15 hours now. I don't think the block heater works, and I think the motor is @#$%ing toast.

perfect candidate for crashing off a bridge. (did you see what I did there?....I used a metaphor. see, the car is obama. the bridge is the presidency. and the car, crashing off the bridge and plunging into the water must surely represent something as well :dunno: )

I do these every so often in the 87...it's lifted 6.5" and no problem. the key is to know when the conditions are right for it BEFORE you even try. the 3800 can do them all day long anywhere it goes

Coralville at the motel 6 right now. it does have dual batteries, I've no idea where the second one is, and no voltage meter to use to test it. the boss won't shell out the $$$ to put it in a garage to warm up...I just want to fricking go home. already cost me some weekend wheeling because the 87 won't be ready for a trail ride now. anyways, nothing is waiting overnight....if it doesn't run, he can come pick me up and the van can stay here. not my problem. hopefully heating it up with a torpedo heater will help :nuts:

RE hands down. at least they have a good reputation...

not an MJ but your advice might help get me home. I'm stuck in Iowa 2001 GMC savanna 3500 van 6.5 TD won't start. engine is chugging. -21 degrees here it's plugged in. anyways, let the glow plugs charge 4 or 5 times to ensure enough heat on the glow plugs. flip key to start the ignition. engine cranks SLOW like there's no battery charge. hook hi amp charger, no difference. replace battery, no difference. charge with tow truck. no difference. oil is maybe a quart low. at 265k miles it burns (typical 6.5) but I keep it topped up. it simply won't turn over fast enough to get it to even fire. I seriously doubt the lines are gelled, I put a bottle of HEET diesel in BEFORE I fueled up yesterday. currently at just under 1/4 tank of fuel. does anyone have any ideas? the tow guy said we basically need to get it in a heated shop to start it. oh, some specifics on the truck. it has 7 glow plugs of 8, 3 weeks old. one broke off in the head and my boss cannot justify $2000 to remove one glow plug on a tired motor. thanks in advance. Pat

gah. tim, I can't read all of that...my attention span isn't that long. I'll call you this weekend. I am in iowa which is why I've been missing your calls...stupid phone. -Pat

Jake, I'm with you. thanks for posting this! btw, give me a buzz tomorrow. joe already knows what's up.

sexy. get the tube yet? and how's the geo running?

I asked my rother to plug the 87 in today so that IF I get home tomorrow from Iowa, I can start it up no worries. oh, and also was told the new crankshaft and connecting rods for the 3800 are sent off to be hardened *shrug* idk what's involved in the process, but I sure am glad for nice (albeit late) christmas gifts. -Pat p.s. I'm stuck here b/c 6.5 turbo diesels suck REAL BAD.

nice score! yes those second wheels are called icons. my bro just got a set of them for his mj...they are 16" rims. I'll post pics of what they look like on a chromed out MJ sometime.

i know. that's my problem.

Sounds like he torque converter wasn't locking up, or possibly missing 4th gear. TC it was hitting gears

no. you cannot. there is no bellhousing to adapt the ax5 to a 4.0. to the OP. don't worry about the mechanical speedo drive...they are completely interchangeable. get a 94 on up ax15 for an external bellhousing. I have a buick 3800 in my comanche. it outputs around 210 hp and 230 ft lbs/torque. it's a 60 degree gm bellhousing pattern, which is exactly what the ax5 is. the thing literally eats ax5's for lunch so I finally found the proper bellhousing for the ax15 to swap. I blew 4 ax5's in 6 months.

not really...he doesn't want to trim at all. I'm in the same boat, at 6.5" need to add 1.5" to my truck so I can put 34" or 35" tires on without rubbing. my 33x10.50's rub like a sonova at every point when fully flexed.

:cheers: "I love it when a plan comes together." (Colonel Hannibal Smith) no crap right? I was basing my opinions on the matter off of the assumption that my vehicle's trans control wiring wasn't all crap. now it's all removed and back to the drawing board on the trans controls...which is what I should have done anyways.

my issue with the treks kit is that in order to do any work on the transmission or transfercase or front driveshaft, you have to support the entire vehicle on blocks. this is because you have to disconnect the two points which are the only mounting points for the suspension arms.

alright, I was wrong. I COMPLETELY agree with putting 4.56 gears in an auto. removed the tc and 1st gear switches from the wiring harness that the PO of the parts xj had installed, and turns out I run 5 to 700 rpms lower than before. I also replaced the trans control unit :cheers:

:hmm: Who did...?? :dunno: . I don't see anything about that either... :dunno: that would be Eagle.

untrue. the newer style does not have a flat spot in the spline on the steering shaft. they do have a groove ring where the bolt slides through to keep the shaft from pulling off, and also tighten the splined collar on the bottom ujoint of the steering shaft. any newer style steering column will go on in a 360 degree radius. fact.

jebus, I DID NOT say ANYTHING about removing the pitman arm.