JeepcoMJ

thanks guys. and yes, eagle, I think his friend does owe him a column.

agreed. I have a set of chrome manual remote mirrors in great shape (hint hint) that are just now coming off of my 87...

I'd buy one. definitely.

if I wanted a hummer, I'd ask your wife. j/k seriously though, you're preaching to the choir. :yes:

I tossed all it's old guts in boxes and threw them on shelves in the barn, then cleaned the shop, then put a new CB antenna on it, and went to a junkyard. bought a new bed for the 3800 for $250...still dented, but fixable. also picked up a dana 44 rear for $150 with 3.55 gears and perhaps trac-loc for my bro's mj. going back next weekend to pick up, have reciepts.

BEAUTIFUL RIG man :thumbsup: . I'm not laughing...store it in the heated garage, wax it every day, it deserves it

that's a BS excuse. if you're a mod, do your job and browse the forums. you are a mod for every forum on comancheclub.com. if you aren't going to do that, then why are you a mod. I completely agree with the OP

it's hillbilly when you break the column to get it done. the switch is not the ghetto part, it's the manner in which it's done. and, IDK if you've noticed, but the truck I've currently got is NOT a street truck. hell, I haven't even taken it to the paint booth...and it will probably stay that way. one is street, one is wheeling, and both are clean, with everything set properly and modified in a professional manner. hack jobs are just that, and a complete waste of time. they are the reason I get these trucks so cheap when the improvised hack jobs fail, and the PO gives up, lets it rot, and the vehicle ends up in such bad repair I have no choice but to scrap it. booty fab is the precursor to a junk vehicle, or injured people.

alright. so what about the rest of the wires :doh: I've got an entire second connector currently doing nothing, plus a connector running off of it (for the power windows/locks etc.) which does nothing as well. I need to figure it out. any links to tech diagrams online?

and so it does. the turn signal switch takes care of that for you. :yes: all that is involved is putting the wire to the brake pin, the switch (in both new and old style) does the rest.

JUST stopping the brake lights from overriding the 4-ways is potentially dangerous, and probably illegal. The Cherokee doesn't "override" anything. The Cherokee has a set of dedicated, amber lights for turn signals and 4-ways in the rear. The MJ does not. If you want to do something to ensure that you always have 4-ways, IMHO you'd need to add another pair of bulbs (one on each side) or take one bulb on each side out of the normal circuit and dedicate it as a 4-way. Personally, I plan to add lights front and rear and control them with a toggle switch. this does not stop the 4-ways, it simply does not stop the flashing turn signal from continuing to turn. it allows the brake lights on the opposing side to come on (as MJ's do from factory) while the turning side continues to flash. it is in no way illegal and brings it back to factory spec.

The fuel gauge inaccuracy is due to the difference in the resistance value of the fuel gauge sender potentiometer. This can be corrected by adding a resistor in series in the output to add resistance, or adding resistance in parallel across the pot to lower the resistance. I posted the two pot values some time ago here, but can't seem to find them now. :eek: There isn't a huge difference in the resistance. The Renix sender has a range of 0 to 88 ohms. The HO sender has a range of 105 to 0 ohms. The gross difference is 17 ohms, but if you add a resistor of that value to correct the high end of the scale, the other end will be off by 17 ohms. If I were doing it, I think I'd use about an 8-ohm resister, with the hope of getting better accuracy through the mid-range of the scale and accepting some inaccuracy on both ends. Or maybe find a potentiometer in that range so you can dial it in so the gauge works accurately in the range where you most need it to be accurate. For me, that would be from about half down to one-quarter. Full is full, but when it gets down to a half I start thinking about needing to fill up. That's where I'm most concerned about whether or not may gauge is correct. lol. I think I will just get the proper sender from a 91 or 92 comanche...that way it will have the proper fuel pump as well.

mj's had one pieces...i pointed that out already. cj's had two-piecers.

not to mention that the entire radiator support is different and must be physically cut out of the vehicle to swap in the 4.0 radiator support. also the front frame crossmember needs to be swapped, and the front portions of the inner fenders do not match. the firewall issues are a myth. anyways you may have an amc20 rear axle in that truck. snap a pic and post it on here, we'll tell you if it's a dana 35 or amc20 unless you already know. a single piece shaft amc20 is equal to if not stronger than a dana 44, and would hold up to 33" tires. you need 5.13 gears at least to pull off the 33's with a 4 cylinder.

does it really even matter? a dana 35 is junk in every way shape and form. the 4.0 5 speed definitely is 3.07's the auto could also have 3.73's if it's got a tow package. that's only a possibility, no guarantee. the 4 cylinder gears vary ALOT. 4 cyl 5 speed = 3.55, 3,73, 4.10 gears as available choice. 4 cyl 4 speed = 3.55 4 cyl auto = 3.73, 4.10, 4.56 with 4.10 or 4.56 being more likely. a 87-88 xj with aw4 auto guaranteed has 4.56 gears. it is the only guarantee with them other than the 4 cyl 4 speed with an 8.25 if it is a 4 cylinder it will more than likely have 3.55 gears, and same goes for a 4.0 equipped jeep.

I can do a closed to open swap in under two hours, and it gets me a new t-stat and likely water pump at the same time. personally, I LOVE the open system. it's easier to deal with and has less crap to deal with when it comes to hoses. when it fails, it's likely not catastrophic. when a closed system fails, you're pretty much screwed.

it did. i used to have alldata so wiring issues were easy...but without it it sucks. i did everything today with a test light :ack: . i didnt connect the reverse lights as those will be on a switch.

thanks a TON. the connector in question has 19 wires coming out of it. it is 3 set in three column. the left hand column has 9 wires and leaves the lower two pins in the switch open. the center column has 6 wires with 7 pins from the column. the right hand column has 4 wires connecting to the larger pins, with 7 pins total and the lower three (the smaller pins) being open. The pin I need to connect to is the center column open wire, which is 4th from the top, 4th from the bottom, and directly below the screw which secures it to the switch. Thanks for explaining how I needed to connect it Troy...now I understand.

I'm honestly not even sure...the column and connectors are nowhere near being interchangeable. anyways, you're basically saying to tie the brake light wire into the turn signal switch, because when stepping on the brake it will then engage both right and left lights while not allowing the current to back-flow across connections.

dilemma...I have a 95 column, and the turn signal plug is quite different. hmm.

so what is it that I have to do for the brake light now? I teed the existing xj brake wire into both directional wires, and the result is that with hazards or either directional engaged, both tail lights flash. when stepping on the brakes it stops blinking all-together. the front turn signals still work as they should.

ghetto. fix it right or don't do it at all. :fool:

yeah but you should here the mouthful we all get about it...my mom HATES that all of us guys have these jeeps. three are mine, my brother has two, and my dad has one. I also have a parts cherokee behind the barn (it needs to go and soon) and enough parts to probably build two more less bodies. starting to thin out the parts cache though...i'm done with projects for awhile after rebuilding the diesel and the 3800.

lol. true. We have 5 other MJ's that i could put it in right now :nuts:

very nice! I'm also wondering what you did for the e-brake handle. guessing you removed the plate that goes through the floor, shortened the original e-brake cable, and made a mount for it with an adapter to plug into the bottom of the e-brake handle. very nice build so far...I LOVE the interior. how hard was the dash install? or, I should say, what did you have to do mount-wise.