JeepcoMJ

I did that swap, but had to cut out a window and switch the PRNDL over as well. You should have a dremel tool and a 12 pack. Just try and get a same year cluster as there were some differences in speedo cable mounting. I did that and just installed a shift indicator on the column...then I got sick of looking at the ugly thing removed it and just went with notch counting. worked fine for me.

you're welcome. now go get the seats :brows: (oh, i think you can fit the seat belts inside of the center console btw... :idea: )

longbed for work, towing (nice longer wheelbase makes trailer handling easier), and DD duty. I love being able to toss whatever I want in the bed and go. shortbed...well, I can't fit a damn thing in the back of it, unless I feel like removing the fullsize spare and mount and toolbox. I love the truck, it's great wheeling. I'd never wheel a longbed...end of story. too much high center, @$$ dragging, and they look TERRIBLE bobbed IMHO. so coming from a guy who's had easily 5 of each, longbed for duties, shortbed for fun.

true enough Eagle, but considering the KBB value as being around $1500-$2000 they would total it anyways. I have 3500 in damage to the 3800 to have the frame fixed and the box rebuilt with parts that don't exist (technically...I snagged the last bedside), and I got a fair market value estimate on the truck in pre-accident condition as $6500...they did a full inspection on the vehicle to deduce that value. the other guy's insurance still won't pay out, and said if they did it would be to total the truck at $1300 in value for the kbb estimate on a 2wd 86 2.8 5 speed comanche....and it is pretty much none of those things anymore. so, considering the odds, I'd say if '88 can get $2500 out of it, he's well ahead of the game. well, regarding vehicle value (I think it's worth more than that btw but they would go by kbb if it came down to it). now, with his head going through the rear window, that's an ENTIRELY different story. that alone is worth $2000 in medical at the very least.

1984 to 1994 used the same bracketry, though xj brackets are different than MJ ones...you have to put the bench seat pedistals on the bucket seat sliders. it requires minimal drilling on some spot welds and rivets, and a bit of welding (or several grade 8 bolts) to hold it together. center consoles are fully interchangeable, just grab the middle and rear bracketry. however, you will have a slot in the black center insert from the xj e-brake handle. IIRC there was someone on here who said you could still order the MJ insert online. 4dr buckets mount the same, the only difference is that the inner framework doesn't have hinges or a latch...you can actually swap cloth between the seats, so long as they're the same styles. you can use 4dr buckets easily...I did on the 3800 for a couple years and had no problems, simply found black 2dr buckets (thanks to mfpdm) and interior. the 4dr buckets weren't hard to deal with, you can slide them forward to get stuff back there too. make sure you grab the female ends of the seatbelts as well...they are different.

the largest one is for the output line, the smaller line is for the return line. trail the lines, the one which goes to the fuel pump is going to the larger fitting.

straightening the frame isn't gonna be terrible...but difficult all the same. you will need to place jackstands under the bend point...which is about 2" behind the cab. these need to be of a heavier duty variety, and fully extended. take the rear wheels off. the box needs to come off for this. then you need to anchor the front of the jeep to something HEAVY. your best bet with this is to remove your front bumper radiator support, grille, and radiator, then use some heavy duty tie down STRAPS (no chain it will buckle the front) to anchor the jeep through and around the front crossmember and to the sides to hold it down. take off the gas tank (obviously since you have the bed off it will be off anyways) and get someone who is handy with a torch (but not gung-ho to cut holes) to heat the bent sections. use some sort of ratchet straps or likewise, anchored to something heavy below the truck, to ratchet the frame down accoringly. gut the back of the interior, take seats out, and find a means to straighten the cab. fix the rear leaf...either replace the main leaf, or you may yet be lucky. this can be done yourself, but it will never be 100% accurate if done that way. I would feel comfortable doing it, but it's likely that your best bet is to take it to a body shop with a frame machine. it CAN be fixed, but will get very pricey. my best advice to you; DO NOT drive it in it's condition. the frame is bent AND twisted, and with the spring screwed up and the frame bent, your slip-yoke now has next to no slip. cheapest route...truggy time. if you decide to pursue that route, I'm interested in the bed. -Pat

eesh 88... check your frame and the back of your cab. i know a guy who had the same rear end hit, wrecked the frame and pushed the box into the cab denting the cab and wrecking the rear window and basically totalling it. he repaired it though with ALOT of time. get some headrests btw... :no:

buckets. they won't have the tilt option unless they're from a 2dr though. not a big deal as you can still access behind the seats from between them.

lol, no idea...I yank all my stockers and pile them up in the barn until someone needs them. unfortunately, someone has needed all of them *shrug*

it's the bulb. the old quartz lcd's or whatever they are are reflective...so direct light will allow you to see what the deal is.

with a bit of time and paitience I'm sure you can take the radio apart and swap it's bulbs.

front diff lockers actually offer the least improvement in something which will be driven on the road. they remove turning ability and increase the potential for broken axleshafts or other broken parts. the best thing you can do with lockers on something that's still street driven is a rear locker...simply put, a rear axle has less variables and less moving components to potentially break. basically the only lockers you can do yourself (with no experience setting up gears and lacking about $500 worth of equipment) is a "lunchbox" style locker...this is a locker which only replaces spider gears but not the complete carrier. this is also the cheapest locker you can do. I agree that the front locker will help you out the most offroad...allowing you to pull instead of push. however, for streetability you're looking at a higher price range ($700-$900 for new locker and then install cost to set the new locker/carrier in place and setting gears). you'll want a selectable locker such as an auburn ected or arb up front. I know the detroit lockers are good, but they're not selectable this is perfectly good for your rear axle, as they don't need to slip quite as much. -Pat

WTF are you saying???? :hmm: R u DrUnK??? nah, he's always that way :nuts: :idea: but here's the interpretation; I [t]ake it they won't sell [the vehicle] whole [complete] some [junkyards] here [where bigd is from] will [sell them complete, or as complete as they are.]

there IS a bellhousing to put the 3.4 to an ax15. the late 80's/early 90's dodge dakota 4 cylinder bellhousing. but for the cost of that conversion, the truck would have to be around $2k less initially.

Well no $#!&... You live in WI.... I can't beleive you paid 250 for a bed.... :rotfl2: lol. the 87 was $750...in scrap (which was leftover from the rest of my projects lol). the 89 (red swb) I had was $1300. the black 87 I just sold a couple months ago was $600 but then $200 to get into shape. looking at another one (rust free southern 86 2.8 liter) for $600...simply to scrap everything in it but the body, because the diesel's body is not restorable. generally you're right, but even I'm having a hard time finding these jeeps for a good deal now.

*shrug* I just wouldn't ever pay more than $1000 for a 2.8 of ANY sort. and especially since it's not all that nice.

check out the motor, then look at the price. the chuckling time should begin right about that..

check this out, and laugh away http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-198 ... sQ5fTrucks

lol. they will be set up for any shifter handle you'd like...just let me know.

hopefully within a week or so I'll have it set up.

number one is to take out the ignition tumbler...to do that, you have to take the steering column apart and have the original key. then you should probably fix the broken lock mechanism just because you don't want it to be clicking all the time, nor to lock up on you at speed. then follow what these guys say. it's a great idea if that's your sort of thing, just do it safely please.

lol. thanks. except for that little exhaust leak...

I agree. thoughts have crossed my mind to sell it all lately...starting to get sick of the forums and wrenching. overwhelmed actually. the 'rents are both right that I should get something to drive that doesn't need anything, and won't break on the way somewhere. anyways, speaking of not breaking...I put 175 miles on the mj so far between today and yesterday. by the end of the day tomorrow, I should be up to 400 miles and my first oil change. it runs great, idles great, just needs the exhaust buttoned on properly (the rear pipe is ovaled out b/c it was too big, so it leaks), and all of the in-cab things such as lights and stereo installed. I'm picking up a 91 H.O. fuel sending unit tomorrow from geonovast...trading him an xj one since he's running an xj tank in his wheeling truck. that will correct my fuel gauge issues and allow me to upgrade to the H.O. pump for a full conversion. oh, I got bored so the center of the hood and header are black now...gonna continue this to the cowl, following the lines on the raised steel then paint the whole top black and bedline the bed right up over the rails. gonna bedline the bottom edge too most likely. pardon the bright pics. if you look closely, you'll see the shifter extension I'm currently building. this will be a trigger-style shifter and I may consider making them. it will be alot shorter than it is currently.