JeepcoMJ

there was a 4 cyl in 98. what exactly are you putting this in...I assumed a comanche since this is a comanche forum, but I've been wrong before...you didn't say so I put the @$$ in @$$ume...

nope. the bearing retainers are different sizes since the 98 trans has different bearings. thus, the bearing retainers are different. just use the 98 parts.

you may have to use a 98 master cylinder with it. is the 98 slave plastic? or is is steel? ...it's all going to be piecing it together until it works...

you need whatever it takes to make a 98 trans work in a 98. hopefully you have the proper slave cylinder, throwout bearing and plate. you have the 98 bellhousing? do you have the parts for inside of it? it shouldn't be too hard if you have that all. being that not many guys here have ax5's or ax4's and/or are simply getting rid of theirs with a 4.0 conversion, I don't think that many people here will know exactly what parts are in a 98 trans bellhousing...

98 is already external.

what trans

you should probably take the flares off of it when you paint it so that the paint doesn't have a tendancy to lift and peel in that spot...

There has been some debate as to what this front axle came from, first I was told XJ then I was told those have U joints, not CV. So it switched to maybe it came out of a ZJ but its from an '86 and ZJ's didn't come out till like what '92 or something... so I am almost positive now that it is from an early wagoneer. honestly it may not even be the spider gears, could be something else. the Jeep just doesn't go anywhere. it runs and everything, just doesn't move. I'm just swapping the rear axle out to solve it because I want to know how to do it for when I upgrade to a 44 (when I find one in my area) and also because I figure whatever IS broken (whether it be the spider gears or not) it will get fixed by just taking the whole rear axle out and putting a new one in you could pop the cover and take a look...and just swap the spiders from your spare axle over to this axle if that's all that's wrong. then save the parts and time for when you get a dana 44.

if the dumpster is in decent shape, bring it home and put it on craigslist. I'd love to have one here myself...would make things easier (haul it out with the forklift once every few weeks) scrap price is less than 150/ton. you'd maybe get half that at best.

cherokee wagoneers also had cv shafts in the early years...both on the front driveshaft, and the axle. I've roasted spider gears in a 35 twice, blown a ring and pinion once, and launched a carrier once. when the ring and pinion went, and the carrier went, they blew holes through the diff cover LMAO

that wouldn't explain the cv shaft and spider gears. that's just the driver being a dumb@$$. your truck DOES have a trackbar. they all do. I meant that the "lifted" trackbar isn't long enough for it. how does the truck sit now? @$$ end way higher in the air than the front?

I'm going to run 31 or 33 inch tires depending on what fits with my set up right now, probably 31's to start out and maybe move up to 33's when the 31's are worn out. thank you much. both trucks are 4WD so I will need to make sure it has the same gear ratio, the SUA perches take off with a plasma cutter or a torch? and good thing my dad is teaching me how to weld. Thanks a lot guys, you are probably all like "oh man this kid is getting in way over his head" but it's OK, only way I'm going to learn and you guys are a big help so thanks plasma cutter is just fine. if you don't care about the axle (and I wouldnt, personally) then make sure when you cut it that you cut more into the axle than into the perch...then throw the axle away since it's a dana 35. SOA in the rear will give you easily 5.5" of lift and up to 7.5" depending on how tall your perches are. you're not gonna get any lower than that with it. also, if the truck was originally a 4wd, then it will sit even taller with SOA (6"-6.5" minimum) as they have a heavier load capacity. So, your 3" stuff isn't anywhere near big enough. you can't use the 3" control arms...they're too short. the coils are too short, if it even has a trackbar it's too short, and the shocks all around are definitely WAAAAY too short for that kind of lift.

make sure you actually remove the old gunk from the old gasket.

okay. just to clarify...it's grinding after you put it in gear, in all gears up to 4th gear? or it's grinding when you are in the process of putting it in gear?

I agree. I've also had more good luck, than bad with them. At one point, when worn, nearly junk BA10-5's were selling for $1000+ each, I'd bring a spare when wheeling out of state, but I never needed it. When the 250k one failed in my 87', it made a ton of noise first, and gave me plenty of notice it was crapping out. That was before I knew you could convert 2wd BA's to 4wd, so I nursed it along for months, till I could buy a whole YJ, just for the tranny. (still less than $1k tho). we're off-topic. but don't you have to swap the output shaft, and output housing in order to convert it from 2wd to 4wd? that's how I've done several of my ax5's, since the outputs/tail housings are not the same.

hey man, if I can get a bad rap for being a piece of sh*t, then so can the pukegoat. I've not once seen one that didn't have issues after it was even mildly abused. as for an ax5 behind a 4.0....it's NOT possible. there's no bellhousing for it. that all said, I transplanted a buick 3800 from a 1996 camaro into my 1986 longbed comanche. it's a 60 degree gm bellhousing with a 90 degree block, and more or less bolted to the transmission (custom clutch @$$'y and modified bellhousing for starter). I abused that motor ALOT. beat a 2 cylinder rotary RX7 with it hands down lol. the 3800 outputs more hp and more torque than a 4.0 liter while being more efficient, in stock form. mine is bored over .030 with competition cams, outputting 263hp and around 230ftlb torque, and it EATS ax5's like nothing. as I've said, I can't get more than 1K miles on an ax5 with it. hence I have an ax15 and dakota bellhousing. unfortunately something got in the number 3 bearing on the motor, so I have it out and am rebuilding it now.

a thunk he bees stoopid

my take on this is that it's grinding constantly while in gear. I need to ask, to be sure...is it grinding when going in to gears and/or between gears, or is it grinding constantly while driving?

it's the front cross shaft bearing which has failed. probably has more damage than that now. where are you located? I do have a 5 speed 4wd ax5 here that's in good shape. and let me reiterate...if you took it to a shop you had do the job screwed it up. not only did they misdiagnose the problem, and fix what they misdiagnosed, but they apparently did not even do the job correctly. if your clutch got weaker, then THEY did not do it right and there is air in the system, or leaks, or failures. so...I would take it back to them and tell them you either want your money back, or you want them to fix the problem correctly at 60% below what they would normally charge. if they don't bite, you can call them out by getting the police and city (or town) involved...they can lose their mechanic's license for not doing it right. did they do the fluid change? did they tell you about the shavings? if they did it, but did not tell you, then they are liable and I cannot believe they put that tranny back in after the clutch job. it should never have gone back in the truck.l your best bet right now is a tranny swap.

had my first jeep at 11...70's j2000 with a wood stake bed. used it for driving from the house to the end of the driveway in the winter to get on the bus. my first personal jeep was the 3800...got it in 2004 and spent a winter rebuilding it. since then it's been through a few more stages of rebuild, with a few left yet too. there have been around 20 more jeeps since then haha.

6.5" RC coils and fully adjustable control arms RC quick-discos RE HD adj. trackbar SOA rear, 7.5" long perches. 33x10.50 BFG (have a set of M/T and A/T but both are pretty used...) Edelbrock Extreme IAC remote reversorvoir shocks all around

it wouldn't be a constant noise. only while in those gears and accelerating. perhaps at coast too, but not likely. he will know soone enough...if it's that problem left unfixed, he's only got another few hundred miles on the trans, if that. that's okay tho....for some reason I can't seem to get more than 700-1000 miles on an ax5 behind the 3800 :yes: :rotf: :rotfl2:

it's not likely to be the synchros. it's a bearing...either on the lay shaft or possibly on the main cluster shaft at the mid-plate. 4th works because it doesn't operate off of the lay shaft (cross shaft)...4th gear is a 1:1 ratio and it simply locks the input to the cluster gear. 5th gear is actually not in the main body of the transmission...it is directly behind the midplate, and does still run off of the lay shaft. but, the fact that 5th works makes me think it cannot be the lay (cross) shaft bearing at the midplate...the lay shaft is at least staying straight enough that 5th gear works. 5th gear has one of it's gears on the tail end of the cross shaft (after it goes through the midplate), and one on the output shaft. I had a similar issue with my 86 the first time the tranny went...kind of an oscillating noise that sounded kinda like grinding. it was the front lay (cross) shaft bearing. after a bearing goes bad, the entire transmission should be disassembled (removing cases is necessary just to replace the bearing BTW) and at least cleaned, so that there won't be any debris in it. The company that replaced your clutch determined the problem INCORRECTLY and I can guarantee you that. take it back, tell them what I've told you, and tell them that they can either pay you back what you payed them for the labor on the clutch job (since the idiots didn't fix what they said they were gonna fix), or tell them you'll get your lawyer. OR, if they can do transmissions, tell them to do your transmission, and then incorporate all labor from the previous (bungled) repair into this one. meaning that they would save face, and they would not have to pay out, but you'd get it fixed and not lose out on money.

I doubt it will work. get under it and take a pic of the trans, post it up here, we can tell you what it is

late 80's early 90's dakota.