JeepcoMJ

Age of the motor doesn't have anything to do with quality. John, I would simply buy a low miles one that sounds good. Do you really want to spend $900 on an engine that only has a useful shortblock? Then another $200 in parts and time to put your parts on it? Remember, jeep man is pretty much correct with the exception of sensors and all manifolds, flex plates, accessory brackets, and timing cover change (new p/s systems required change in timing window on cover or it would rub the belt)

Also, the exhaust ports are smaller on 00 and newer. I cannot remember the year, but I believe 95 or 96 also introduced one long bridge for the main caps

John, just remember you can only use a motor from a xj, mj, yj, zj. Tj and wj are off limits for the fact that the bosses for motor mounts to put your mounts on them don't exist. Frankly, the newest engine I would buy would be 98 to mid 99. This is the last year before they decreased exhaust port diameter. I would however put an intake from a mid 99 and up on it, and I would also convert to the 96 and up belt tensioner system and steering pump (requires 96+ intake manifold). Doing this, you have no custom wiring necessary so long as you retain your current throttle body

It's free. Quit bitching.

True on 'em fitting in the WJ. But as this is COMACHE CLUB, i kept it simple. I can't believe as many people posted on here and no one even asked if his is renix or h.o.

TJ engine will ONLY work in a TJ. Mounting bosses are different. Also, if you have an 87 to 90, you need an engine from 87 to 90. If you have a 91 to 95 and don't feel like swapping parts around, you need a 91 to 95. If you have a 96 to 99, you need a 96 to 99 for same reason. 2000 to 01 will only really work in those years, and without a bunch of parts swapping and custom brackets, you cannot put an older engine in an 00 to 01

You won't be putting dishes back in it i assume

Seconded

They have had bad bushing batches several times throughout the years....at the same time as every other manufacturer. But yes, I would never again run rc shocks.

The reason you order company direct. You didn't order rough country product, you ordered hell creek product. Hell creek failed, not rough country....the parts should have been in stock and on the shelves. So really, the failure is yours from ordering elsewhere than factory direct.

Measure, but should amount to the difference between the center of the axle shafts and end of yoke.

Won't work. Is for automatic. Different size

It still affects driveshaft length. Moreso with swb. I have a 4.0/ auto/ np231/ d44/ shortbed mj rear driveshaft in need of new ujoints but otherwise nice. Came off an 87 chief. Should be under $40 in shipping.

As you change lift height, being that the axles are mj specific, I would simply replace all driveshaft ujoints. The rear ds is long enough to be largely unaffected by lift, but changing operating angles of used worn in ujoints will increase chances of losing them. Of course, your rear driveshaft is too long for a Dana 44 and will need to be cut down 1" shorter. Also, never regear your own axles for the first time on a road use vehicle. If you get it wrong, you end up throwing away time and money.

Carrier break. You will need a new carrier to go that deep

Sa-what? You're right, but supposedly you knew that

Never once have I had a problem with rough country...and I used to be a dealer for them

Call them on the phone, ask for Jason. You can't have. Serious conversation via any form of text to text communication. I would have disconnected too. It's easier to complete something quickly over the phone. Not that that isn't poor customer service, but you have to understand. Those brackets are custom made, and made in exact quantity to match inventory of bumpers. They don't order more of one than the other. It is not their fault that your previous owner has lost them. You yourself are not a rough country customer...of course you will get charged more. Tell them you bought the bumper from them years ago and have lost the brackets.

2. Have owned 29, and roughly as many XJ's. Never a zj or any sort of wrangler, but 7 KJ's now.

does anyone have a picture of a nicely done flatbed comanche? the one truck I'm going to be working on here soon had an absolutely terrible bed so I scrapped the box. it was my nice truck but its going to be a work truck. since that's the case I don't really feel like buying a new bed Nicely done means looks professional...Not tube, not wood. Steel or aluminum.

Aaron when his ps box blew this past trip. They just left him there. When Kyle broke, he was the only one with tools and was expected to help. Just saying, it's a selfish castle of a club. Admittedly, I have a bias.

That may be a relative statement. I would recommend bcc for the trips they do. They know the area well. But don't expect to find a mechanic in the group...other than wade and Aaron, they seem to run buggies now and thus bring no tools. Make sure your rig is ship shape as they likely won't wait on the trail for you. This is hearsay, not an opinion.

Dom is thicker, stronger, made of a more dense metal. Pipe doesn't meet the same specs

Only reason I think of that is to keep brush out of it. Wouldnt matter in a rollover.

Horizontal bar between each of the uppermost front to tear bars at the point of arch. Basically another bar above the upper windshield bar. Conservative is good. It hits the spot wothout going overboard. Like a rubber, it takes care of 99% of the problems you could encounter not having one lol