JeepcoMJ

However, you are not going to be off-roading it, and aside from the extra heat from the stroker and potential chance of overheating, your system is in far more efficient condition. Any offroad vehicle has increased chance of non-heat related damage. Last thing I want in those situations is to crack a radiator, have to limp it off the trails, and find that I also contaminated $60 worth of ATF, if not wrecking the trans

Dan, ditch the rad cooler and go full external. You will thank me

...I have literally given ax5s away. After I had rebuilt them...something the long term members remember I had to develop a knack for lol Now, as is, if you just open the case and only replace the necessary, it would sell for a few hundred on ebay

No. You will sit on it forever. No one wants to give joe blow top dollar for something "rebuilt" when the only proof is that it is clean and that he says "my buddy is a trans guy and just rebuilt it for me". And, the rebuild kit costs more than $400, even at wholesale

Nothing. Why put another fluid through something with potential failure leading to direct contact and contamination with coolant? I add a separate cooler to every auto car I own and remove it from the radiator completely. Takes longer to warm the trans in winter, bit I'm good with knowing it won't puke the trans from a bad radiator.

What year is the ax15

How much money doo you want to spend? You need hydraulics, a controller that will auto center and switch from manual control to column control, rams, custom built front axle converted to centered differential, new ball joints, steering joints, gears and associated parts,, custom rear suspension, and some sort of mechanical lockout to hold the knuckles centered in the event of breakage. And then to remember that 4 wheel steer vehicles that are not produced that way are NOT street legal

21 slot, from 85-86 xj wagoneer

Reality. We don't live where you do. We don't know whats available. We have given you the bolt in or mostly bolt in options. Since you are short on dough, a custom swap is out of the question. Since that is the case, a rebuild is also too much to handle. You are a novice at this. It's okay. Maybe I have been a jerk, definitely others have, but you have set the bar for what you can do. If those options are out, time to sell it and get something easier to find parts for.

Tape the end of the charge wire if you run without

Then there is one. I think ours had one before the filter as well, but it was added on. But, once running, that is the only thing on the engine drawing electric

No. Your options for near bolt in are 2.8, 3.1, 3.4, 2.5. All else is out the window, not to be considered

I have driven with no starter or alternator in ours, bump starting down the hill. Never had a cutout. There are basically two solenoids that keep fuel coming. That is all the engine *needs* to run. So your battery juice must have been at 12.1v, but damn near full discharge

A chain is like $80. Rebuilding these cases is stupid easy "How easy." You say? Well, I can do it...

Big thing for me is the name. "Oh, let me plasti-dip this" No. Only thing I'm dipping is chew, if that. Because I'm not a dipsh** Like tweeting. No. I'm a grown man. I don't tweet, sounds like a damn bird Or playing the Wii. No, I don't say "WEE" that is what the little piggy does.

Plasti dip is for ricers. I swear if I see a jeeper suggest plasti dip again...

Cherokee visors don't fit, the roof is lower on them. 6.5" will clear 33s (you only need 2" more) without trimming, but you will need to regear or it will get crap for mileage and power. Things that are a MUST for 6.5" Upper control arms lower control arms Track bar (Control arms and track bar from 4.5" will NOT be long enough unless they are adjustable to the proper length) Sway bar links/quick connects All new Ujoints in driveshafts (changing the angle that much will toss Ujoints real quick if they are old and used to their original angle of operation). Things you should do for that kind off lift Long arms or lower control arm drop brackets Preferably buy a trackbar with bushings or flex (NOT HEIM) joints on both ends as well as the HD bracket for it New stainless braided brake hoses New steering, whether an upgrade or simple replacement of wear parts. You do NOT need a transfercase drop.

That's a bingo

spare battery isn't up to snuff, either, then.

search jimoshel here. he is liquidating, is in CO, and I'm sure he has one.

just strip them with aircraft aluminum stripper, then get a FINE stainless steel wire wheel (cupped if you can) and polish them out. the stainless won't scratch aluminum, I do this all the time to polish the engines, tunnels, and other shiny parts on my snowmobiles.

KJ will NOT start with a dead cell battery, jumped or not. continuity to the ECM, PCM, TCM won't allow them to communicate. as for the radio, check fuses in dash (pull driver's side panel off dash @ door jamb). the listing for order, as you know, will be in the owner's manual.

With leather and rich mahogany door panels

I say maroon, with a picture of Ron Burgundy acrylic sealed to the glovebox.

You couldn't even understand a simple statement?