JeepcoMJ

looking good! just don't let the bumper get too huge. approach angle and all...

L.E.D.'s are great! But, as Pete said, heat output. We've converted the landing/taxi lights on my bonanza to LED, and to off-set for winter landings, are adding a late model incandescent nose gear mounted landing light. I would NOT choose them as a primary light source on a road vehicle. They are brighter, but have less heat output and do not have as nice of a splash pattern. I put the cheapest available replacements in my KJ. They work great. But, I'm not investing money in my KJ, either. It's rusty, and is a plow vehicle. As far as I'm concerned, the cheaper the better. It doesn't help that I've got to polish the headlights multiple times a year for them to even work well

They like a light hand at the yoke, that's for sure. I'm told that the s-tec 3100 autopilot we are installing has a digital yaw damper that will take away the tail slight, but manual flight needs some light pressure on the foot pedals at all times to keep them from wiggling at the tail. We will see. I'm no pilot. That's the point of building my own plane...it will benefit me more than renting one to get licensed in.

Thanks, It's a 1956 G35. E-225-8 engine, fresh rebuild on pressure carb, with a B215 prop. Big plans. We are returning her to service after 19 years of sitting inside. 1300 hrs on engine, technically. However, it has only 349 hrs on the engine after a complete disassembly and repair as necessary, which included everything but case bolts. Had they done case bolts, it would have been a certified overhaul. Engine came out of a gear-up g35. PO had it rebuilt and swapped when he returned her to service after 7 years of sitting in 1997 At that time, he removed the cracked Deshannon tip tanks and installed standard wingtips. He also had it painted, and had a speed slope 1 piece windshield installed. In 1999, he brought it in for a panel upgrade, and lost $ and interest after they had already cut out most of the panel structure and removed all instruments. So, there it has sat for the past 19 years, with multiple ferry flights in the meantime (3, we think...two were not recorded on flightaware but are in the books) Plans are: Remove and overhaul landing gear, gear door linkages. Strip and paint landing gear bays and gear. Replace gear motor, upgrade brakes and wheels to Cleveland, and overhaul/service gear box. Then re-rig IAW Beech instructions with new main landing gear cable. Remove ALL ship's wiring. Install Whelen L.E.D. position, strobe, tail marker, and landing lights...along with a nose gear mounted incandescent landing light for cold weather/snow condition landings. Install: Aspen EFD1000 Install the awaited Aspen certified backup when it comes out soon Avidyne IFD540 nav/com L3 Lynx transponder (ADS-B in/out plus Mode C and S xpdr display) PMA450B audio panel Future plans for IFD440 for nav/com2, will use SL-30 in the meantime EDM 900 certified primary replacement engine monitor with digital fuel sending units Dual yoke with clock Co-pilot brakes (mechanism in place, missing master cylinders) Custom panel Late model pilot and co-pilot seats Shoulder harness kit for pilot and co-pilot Aileron/flap gap seals Vortex generator kit Osbourne 20 gallon tip tanks (at a later date) The removed wiring will be replaced as the project goes on, since much of this equipment removes the need for the original wiring as is. There are 4 of us involved in the plane. it isn't going to be cheap to do, but spreading the load will help out alot

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, New laptop arrived in the mail today. 19" HP with AMD9 processor, 8 gigs (expandable) Ram, 2TB hard drive with 256gb SSD primary, and touch screen. So, spent all day downloading pics from my old phones and getting my old computers working well enough to transfer data. I've been completely mobile for the past couple years...it's nice to have a laptop again. Anywho, attached are all the pics I've taken of what I did. they show blend door location, motor location, and connector location. I modeled the plug after Beechcraft inspection plugs. made it easy for future access. -Pat

Just wait. The panel is easy. It didn’t have one, we did the easiest thing we could to get it home. It will be all digital with very few analog gauges when we are done. The main thing is to completely rebuild the landing gear and repaint the gear wells. Update to late model brakes, add copilot brakes, convert from generator to alternator, replace an aileron, and have the interior redone. In doing the new instruments, we are also converting to LED lighting all around, and replacing the ships harness, fuel bladders, and installing new digital fuel probes to run the primary replacement engine monitor that will be replacing the analog gauges. It will be a good project. And, what better to get certified in than something you’ve poured blood, sweat, and tears into?

The blend door actuator is usually Inop when we have issues with ours.. located on top of the heater box. It has a harness extension that is accessible by removing the glovebox door and looking slightly towards the center of the vehicle. It’s a white plug, flat, with 3 or 4 wires in it. i cut a round access hole in one of ours, disconnected the blend door wiring, and manually moved it over to heat for the entirety of winter.

So, a coworker and I bought this 1956 G35 bonanza and are bringing it back to life. It’s been indoors for the last 19 years, and is ready for some serious work. it took a lot of time to get it mechanically sound enough to ferry from its old base 45 minutes away to our home base at KBUU, and a lot of help, but yesterday was it’s maiden voyage for its first ferry flight since 2007, and before that it hadn’t flown since 1999. it was a great day yesterday! Now, it’s time to sink some $ in her. Thankfully, I am the labor, and can be bought with food. CEEA9C20-0CCB-4B9A-96C8-5251284005A9.MOV

For free?

It is more of a "hydraulic brakes hold better than mechanical" and "less parts to install". As it stands, I need to convert the xj brake and mj cable to fit, which I really just don't feel like doing.

May be worth it to put a parking disc on the transfercase output for it.

In the middle of my 97 conversion, limited slip d44 with kj discs. Thinking of doing away with the cable brakes, definitely doing away with the parking brake pedal. Bleeding this won't be a problem, I'll pressure bleed it with some aviation equipment I've got at work. I'd worry about leaks except i deal with hydraulic lines on interior every day and seldom is it an issue. It would act as a line lock, as well. Thoughts? Located @ xj parkparking brake slot in console.

I do intend to attend, either in a KJ or if I finish the mj. Will probably take a bunch of bypass and just enjoy being there. The last time I went, I had a 5 hr drive home with a bent front axle

I thought gun control was being able to compensate for recoil?

NEVER use direct replacement upper arms on a KJ. Always spend the $450 on JeepinByAl stock height UAs, which have a parts store available moog upper ball joint. One and done. As far as your alignment issues, park on level ground and measure lower arm heights. The alignment of the lower arms on chassis side is accomplished via a cam lock. If they don't match, then the issue is arm geometry throwing it out of whack. My alignment guy threw out the KJ factory specs and does them by feel, now...as he does with similar setups, because the factory specs don't account for the inevitable shifting of the front suspension crossmember over time throwing off their common measuring points.

I have 20 or more different m12 and m18 tools. Love them. Also, their cordless m18 string trimmer and leaf blower are just plain awesome. I'll never clean a 2 stroke carb that isn't in a sled again.

Change it, turn off, then on.

Some work and some do not. Stick as close as you can. But it is indeed plug and play. The connector may be on opposite side of unit, but should be long enough to reach

You will need to basically do the 97 swap and remove all engine specific wiring from the engine bay, then run a painless harness for the engine, and a custom gauge cluster. This can be accomplished with the original wiring as well. There are expensive signal adapters if you wish to use the 97+ cluster

Grab an evic from a similar year wj and install it. You'll be able to set it. Let me look @ the partpart number of the one I put in my kj to get you the correct one that is compatible. Mine has rolling locks, headlamp flash with remote lock/unlock, chime for same as well as fuel, and remote learning to program more remotes. There's a few options there that I'm missing. There is no other method to accomplish this other than a drb3 scanner.

I'm not thrilled with his choice of starter vehicle. Less thrilled that their site looks like it's a damn Facebook add. Pete, please don't ever set our page up to have continuous scrolling threads.

Agreed. I skim, don't see anything that interests me, move on, and at the end of every session, I mark the forum read. But then, I'm the guy who will delete an app off my phone for having persistent notification icons up. Problem is, for someone such as you or anyone else in this subforum, there isn't much left stock wise that we need to deal with or know, if it'son the subject of oem. Heck, even worse, I'd rip apart a perfect running full optioned renix mj just to at least put 96 wiring and my own personal blend of h.o. drivetrain in simply because I prefer to rely on a scan tool than good old fashioned diagnosis. But then, you could also give me the most cherry pristine 60s or 70s muscle car, and I'd not stop tinkering with it until it'sfuel injected for that very same reason.

Welcome! Cool truck!

Good idea. It's extremely fuzzy The reality is that we need to look at it as "non generic", and aim it towards instructional, DIY, or just darn cool. I'd love to see it be more of a how to, hardcore edition. But, if we do that, then we certainly need a "non stock" tech subforum, which would/could include anything from 8.8 swaps to 350 swaps and more. It is a matter of needle in a hay stack, for me. Most of the non stock questions are the hay. It would be nice to see this subforum be the needle. We appreciate all the things that you do!