Knucklehead97

and if you want one then PM me. I could order you one and we could work out shipping it to ya!

If you read the "info" it talks about some transfercase ring or something. I think they may of accidentally listed the NSS wrong. Either way, I think I'm ordering two just in case I one day need one!

http://comancheclub.com/topic/50454-problems-with-jeep-I'm-looking-at/page-2has a parts list with parts numbers from where I added an inline radiator cap before I wrecked my Jeep and replaced the radiator with an open one. I highly recommend getting a Spectra Premium radiator with the filler neck. I can get you a parts number for the one I have in both of my MJ's if you want to go ahead and change the radiator. My overflow bottle is still a Jolly Rancher soda bottle... tacky but hasn't caused any trouble. Going the new radiator route, with antifreeze and all can be done easily around 130$

I'll learn how to set the gears eventually, or learn the easy way like he's talking about haha. My plan on setting the pinion angle/perch width is to measure the differential housing, subtract it's width from 42", half it, and set them the halved distance from the housing. Then also measure the full axle width, subtract 42" from it, half it, and see if that measures out to place them in the same spot as the other measurements. The angle I will find from checking the angle on the current axles yoke and then setting the yokes degree to that while the perches are 100% level. Kind of confusing to explain.

If the seals look worn chances are I will pull the carrier and change the axle seals and bearings. Only seal I don't feel comfortable changing is the yoke seal (like is leaking on my 35... of course.) Paint job will most likely happen before I install. I like pretty things haha.

This setup was doing perfect on my stickshift MJ last time I drove it. Now I have the exact same setup in my new auto MJ and it has no trouble at all being my daily.

Won't be lifting it more than 2" if at all anytime soon so I guess I have got to find someone to shorten the shaft. 97+ it is! Not sure if I'll do the disks before or after. Chances are since I'm lazy I'll do them after. Is the pumpkin centered on the axle of the 8.25? On the 8.8 I was told it wasn't so you have to measure from somewhere else to set the perches up. I found pairs of mopar spring perches on Amazon for 18$ shipped so I will probably order some of those instead of keeping the old ones after removing. I'm guessing to make sure the axle is good I should just check it for leaks and pull the cover to see how clean it is/if anything is tore up inside?

So I change my mind quite often. Initially when I heard the rear axle in my auto MJ start to go out I was thinking "oh! I'll go ahead and drop the cash on a 4.10 geared 8.8 and new 31's!". Well I have A LOT of things I need to spend my money on before that. But my axle is leaking a bunch and I want to get the axle handled somehow. So what have I decided to do? Build the axle for my stickshift MJ which has a blown transmission! I want to run 31's on both and want 3.55's in the stickshift one. So since I have brand new 235's on my auto MJ and want a simple axle swap I am going to go ahead and build the 3.55 axle for the stickshift one but run it under my auto one till I wear my tires down and get ready to build the 4.10 geared 8.8. Get what I'm saying? Now down to business... is the Cherokee 8.25 easier to swap in than the 8.8? What all do I have to do? Which year Cherokee should I find one out of? HOW can I tell that the axle is good without driving the Jeep first? I'm guessing that I will just need new spring perches. Can I use my old shock mounts that are held by the Ubolts or will I have to figure out another option? If I decided to go ahead and throw on disk brakes what is EVERYTHING I will have to do? Already have a WJ booster to swap in, how would I go about the Proportioning valve and the rear axle valve (forgot what it's called.) Will I have to do anything involving the driveshaft or should the length still be right? Bunch of questions. But as always, thanks a bunch.

This happened to both of my MJ's. First one was stickshift and the clutch leaked onto the fuse block and killed the connection. Second time is on my new automatic MJ and I couldn't find a problem ANYWHERE. The radio worked fine for a day and the all of a sudden lost power. No idea why. My solution? Run a fused wire straight to the battery and tape off the pinks connection. Works like a charm in both of mine.

I'm going to talk to a 4×4 fab shop about how much it would cost to line it all up for me before I try to do it myself. Checked the driveshaft and it wiggles none so at least the bearings are good. Filled the diff up with about 2/3rds of a quart. It's been leaking awhile I think. But I shall post another topic asking questions about the complete 8.8 swap when I get a chance. Thanks guys!

the link I posted is for a premade flange :D

I knew I would get burnt for mentioning listening to Drake haha.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/47266-review-of-spectre-renix-intake-adapter/ Renix intake adapter which makes it where you can use a hose clamp intake instead.

Great! I am planning to stay 2wd with 2" of lift max. And I do know a good welder at a muffler shop (going to have him install my Super 44 when it comes in). Few more questions. 1, where would you measure from to get the alignment?. 2, I'm planning to order the Ruff Stuff 8.8 swap kit. Upon research I have realized that either you have to get your driveshaft shortened or you have to mount the springs in the furthest back hole on the Ruff Stuff perches (pushes the axle back about 1") is there anything wrong with pushing the axle back an inch? I'm sure more questions will come as time goes by haha.

My dad and I used a big monkey wrench and a bottle jack on the end of it to turn my brothers old XJ's axle when it got out of wack.

I'll make sure to check that! My only issue I'm finding with the 8.8 swap is that I don't have a welder, know how to weld, or no anyone that knows how to weld. So I would have to get the axle and figure out the angles and then take it to a shop? Even crappier this Jeep is the only thing I have that can haul an axle so I have to figure out how I would even get it to a shop :/

Looking like the lift and 31's are going to come sooner than I expected. My rear axle is leaking at the pinion seal so i'm fixing to start looking into building my Explorer axle with 4.10's!

Awesome at least I can bandaid it for a little bit! Guess I should stop doing donuts in the churt pits/loosegravel parking lots around town, eh? :D what fluid should I be putting in it? Its been a while since I messed with the rear axle of my other Jeep and I can't remember what weight it was. 2wd AW4 Dana 35 if it matters.

Got back from my camping trip with my church this morning. Pulled into the church parking lot to drop a couple kids off that wanted to ride in the "cool Jeep" on the way back home. Noticed that my 35 is dripping. Seems to be coming from the front seal (where the driveshaft goes in) The Jeep has always had a roar from the rear so I figured my rear axle was having troubles. What's the damage, guys? How hard is it to change? And if it's tough to change, is there any other option to give myself a little time till I can get my Explorer axle found and built? And lastly if I have to build this Explorer axle ASAP then what years am I looking for to get the right axle with 4.10 gears (guess I'll have to go ahead and swap to 31's...) and what is a full parts list/modification list to get the axle installed? Thanks guys.

Sitting at a campsite in Guntersville (about 45 minutes from me) and the Jeep did perfect on the drive up here toting all the gear. My front hitch came in this morning and I had enough time to install it before I headed out! Still have to drill one of the front mount holes but it's super sturdy and for 70$ I'm extremely happy. Can't wait to get a winch and mount for it!

I have a front hitch coming in tomorrow. Rampage H4 headlights and a Flowmaster Super 44 coming Monday. Inventory at work is next week so not much progress will be happening for a while because after next week is VBS at my church and I'm teaching a class every night. Updates will come asap though :D

1.25" hub-centric Trail Sports for the rear only. Going to leave the front alone and let the 31×10.50 tires I plan to get do the rest haha

deer damage fixed! Gotta get a bumper but it ran up the road no problem and the sub sounds great. Very happy right now and excited to get my wheel spacers for the back installed soon. Updates to come as mods happen! :D

used two hose clamps on the bottom transmission line and didn't even have to use a butt connector. Had enough line to go to the radiator! Everything is bolted up and running perfect. Had no trouble or rubbing going up the road. Baby is back on the road guys! :D

Take out the lights and all that and remove 13mm nuts in these circles Then these 4 11mm nuts in the engine bay Sometimes there is a screw down below (7mm? Maybe 5/16. Can't remember.) If that doesn't take it off then check the sides where the 13mm nuts are very closely. I've found multiple header panels with extra screws screwed into the fender here.