Knucklehead97

I highly appreciate all of this! Especially the bushing measurments. I'm trying to make this as bolt in as possible so I will probably measure and trim beforehand like you did. I've got to decide if I want to replace the bushing in the WJ arms or not. They have a few cracks in them but seem to be in good enough condition to run for a bit. And if I had a main bearing cap I would definitely use that tip. Sadly I don't. I'm going to have to figure something else out so I don't bend the mounts.

Driving to church this afternoon I had my sub going. It was acting fine, sounded just how it always does. But then I stopped to get gas and when I got back in the truck and cranked it up the sub wasn't bumping. After I got home I have messed with it some and here's what's happening. (Searched the internet and couldn't find an answer for exactly what is happening) It's a Kicker 10" being pushed by a Boss amp. Hasn't had a problem at all and I've had it tuned and bumping for over a month now. Basically it sounds like it's clipping unless it's at a low volume and if you turn it up it sounds terrible and eventually cuts itself off if you turn it up loud enough. I've got 12.2 volts at amp with the truck off and 13.7 with the truck running. The amp does stay on even though the sub doesn't play. Even with the sub working at low volumes I can't get a voltage from the speaker wires coming from the amp. The amp IS cold when this happen. It's not overheating. I have the RCA's, positive wire, and remote wire all ran the same way together from the radio. Is this bad? Never had a problem with it before. The only thing I can think would act this way is the RCA wires jacking up but I don't know how to test them. Anyone have any insight? It seems like the amp is going into protect mode but there are not any light changes.

What would you do for prepping for the primer? Just the steel wool? If I painted I was thinking I should flap disk it all down to bare metal. I don't know much as far as paint prep, though.

Hey guys. Managed to grab the 98 2wd front axle off of the guy I got the 8.25 from. Only 50$! I just tore it down to see what all I think I need to buy for it and I wanted to get ya'lls opinions and get some answers for some questions. Ball joints will be replaced with Spicer joints All new MOOG V8 ZJ steering. What are the part numbers for this? And is the drag link compatible or will I need to get an MJ one? The steering stabilizer from the 98 is still perfect. Stiff but moves smoothly. Just going to clean it up and roll with it. I have a set of WJ upper and lower control arms. They work with stock height MJ's when you trim the shock mount and all, right? Replacing at least the axle side upper control arm bushings. I can't find just the individual bushings for sale. Are the bushings for the axle the same as the control arms? I've found kits that service one upper control arm and was just going to get them and use both bushings on the axle if that would work. Brakes off of the 98 seem good. I plan to have the rotors turned and the pads still have life on them. Should I go ahead and rebuild the calipers while they're off of the truck? Also the person I bought the axle from cut the rubber line going to the caliper. The one on my MJ looks different but will it work? The hubs don't spin multiple times when I spin them. They spin smooth and don't have any play in them though so I don't plan to replace them yet. I'm either going to paint everything or just clean it all up and paint a few parts that definitely need it. Here is the dirtiness of the axle though. Think it will clean up well or should I go ahead and plan to paint it? What would you guys use to clean it properly? Trying to save money on this as much as possible as I also have to build the 8.25 as well. And get my body panels painted. Thanks as always!

I haven't done a Stroker yet. But if I remember correctly you have to get higher pressure injectors. Did you? Not sure if it would cause a no start, but you never know.

I'll just go ahead and save up for a quality brand then. I have had bad experiences with the generic store brand, never used MOOG though honestly. This time I shall!

I have to ask. Is MOOG REALLY that much better than the generic brands? I've been reading that MOOGs quality is going down hill. I ask because upon rebuilding this set of axles I want to go ahead and replace the steering components and replacing them all with MOOG is gonna set me back a good chunk...

I'm honestly considering doing the same. The MJ I need one forbis in pretty rough condition with 225k on it. So chances are I'll wait until I get promoted a couple more times at work and then drop the cash to put a rebuilt everything in it and start completely over.

of course one pops up when I'm broke from saving to drop about 500$ more into my axles...

I wish AX-15's were more common around here... I've been searching for over a year and haven't found a single good one. Most have been upwards of 600$ transmission only with no guarantee of full function. I'm actually considering buying a parts cherokee and swapping axles and automatic transmission in from it because I love my auto MJ and auto XJ's are sold for parts around here all the time.

Awesome. So it's a win/win. Will definitely be picking it up in a couple weeks. My current axle could use balljoints anyways so I'll just say screw it and replace the whole thing :D

great! I'll be picking that up soon as well and then rebuilding and painting both axles and the Jeep will be setting pretty with good looking axles! Be a good time to add my WJ control arms and 1.75" spacer to level out the front as well. The 98 2wd front axle will use the easier to find/less expensive rotors as well, right?

Get you a cover for the front and rear for $200. Pricey, but a better deal than otherwise. Debating ordering a D30/D44 set for either my JK or MJ. Maybe I should just order two sets. :rotfl2: if the MJ was 4×4 then I definitely would. It's staying 2wd though haha. Chances are I'll just paint the cover a hammered grey and leave it considering the MJ will never be offroad.

Upon picking up the 8.25 to replace my D35 soon I noticed the XJ I was getting it off of was a 2wd. He said if I wanted the 98 2wd front beam axle then I could come get it for 50$. That would give me the newer hubs and brakes which don't have the grease cap right? Would it be worth buying and rebuilding to put under my MJ? Not planning to swap to 4x4

Little bit of an update. Decided against the Ford 8.8 right now to run 31's due to finances. But I did get a 98 8.25 out of a Cherokee last night! no leaks and everything spins and looks how it should. Needs brakes though. Going to paint it after all the weld work and slap it under there. Also may be getting a 98 2wd front beam axle to overhaul and put under it with a paint job. Otherwise the only works thats been done was getting 1.25 spacers installed in the back. They look great. Got the rear tires out exactly how much I wanted. going to measure and add a spacer to level out the front suspension with the back. The front is way to low for my liking.

got an 8.25! Not sure if I'm going to go all out and change all the seals and all yet... it's not leaking anywhere from what I saw. Definitely needs brakes, though. And I want to strip it down and paint it. Also wanting an aftermarket cover but sheesh they're pricey haha.

"Back in the day," in the late 1960s/early 1970s when AMC was just starting out with front disk brakes, some of their models (don't remember which) shipped with flat steel spaces for the front. They weren't quite an eighth of an inch, IIRC, but they must have been 3/32" or so. I don't think they even used longer studs. Jeep wheels are "hub centric" -- the wheels are supposed to engage that raised section around the center of the hub. That raised lip is probably (at a guess -- it's raining and I'm not going outside to measure) 3/16" high. I would think if a spacer half that thickness would work for you, it should be plenty safe. And a lot of aftermarket wheel rims aren't hub centric anyway. Heck, in my Javelin/AMX days I used to run these on the front for caliper clearance with aftermarket rims. They totally did away with the hub centric feature, and I autocrossed and did time trials at Lime Rock Raceway with them. http://www.jegs.com/p/Mr-Gasket/Mr-Gasket-Wheel-Spacers/748902/10002/-1 good to know! I'm going to get some of the caps like Hornbrod used and if I can't get them to look good enough for me then I'll end up running a small spacer. Thanks!

Heck I think even 1/8" would give me enough room for more options. The real part that catches is the little tabs that hold the cap down. I think with 1/8" it would give just enough clearance to cut off the tabs and just adhesive the center piece down flat. Are spacers that small safe? The Mr-Gasket caps seem like they would look pretty good painted semi-gloss black with the Canyon wheels (eventually painting them semi-gloss as well)

So my favorite wheels are TJ Canyons. I have a set on my MJ and on my 4wd one they had no problem... on my 2wd which I daily drive I have ran into this problem. The hub grease cap (I think?) sticks out to far for the cap to seat completely. It's driving me nuts! Someone stole one of my caps so I'm fixing to order a set of 4 off of Ebay. I really want to figure out a solution to them sticking out, though. Has anyone found a solution to this?

I've been searching for driveshaft shops and spring shops around here to get quotes from but I don't think there are any haha. I've got to ask around a bit.

Guy said he bought the Jeep to use the front end in his MJ. Drove it home and the rear end had no sounds. He sent me pictures, doesn't seem to have a leak anywhere. I'm going to look at it Sunday. He said he may go ahead and pull it for me tomorrow if he gets bored. I also ordered the spring perches. Haven't decided on U-bolts yet.

If all is actually good with this one I'll probably jump on it simply because it saves me from having to run to junkyards and pull multiple covers off. My local junkyard wants 150$ an axle anyways so it wouldn't be much of a difference.

Also what is a good price for an 8.25? Got a guy selling one out of an 98 sport for 200$. Says it doesn't roar and has no leaks. Waiting to get pictures.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Leaf-Spring-U-Bolt-10-Inch-Long,2154.htmlwill these work for U-bolts or should I look elsewhere? Fixing to start ordering parts and finding an axle in the next couple weeks.

I've never seen an MJ without AC in person. Working AC? That's a different story. But set up for AC none-the-less.