Knucklehead97

it's honestly extremely straightforward, I would of never thought to do one it's so simple. If I have a clear off day soon I'll take a few pics and post a quick run down behind it!

I love my H4's with the upgraded harness. They are ridiculously bright in a good pattern and I haven't even gotten a higher watt bulb.

I was thinking 150 would be the highest I would go. Plus upgraded battery cables and if I had to then a idle cable. I don't really NEED that big of an alternator. But I like to have upgraded things just in case, ya know? :D

Is that 140$ for all 4 or each?

This was happening to me along with dash lights dimming and a whirring sound coming from the engine. It was my alternator. Sucker was shot. Stick voltmeter leads to the battery with the engine running and if it's only reading like 12 volts then theres the problem :D

Got an alternator/starter rebuilding shop in your town?I'm sure I do somewhere, just have to find it. Here they are: http://www.yellowpages.com/gadsden-al/mip/bailys-alternator-starter-shop-7616771?lid=296242259 http://www.merchantcircle.com/wilder-alternator-starter-rebuilders-attalla-al well. That was fast. Thanks! What would be the highest output the stock alternator could handle? Also, is rebuilding one something that I could do myself?

I'll probably just get the parts store one then. My brother is borrowing my extra car so I gotta have the Jeep on the road ASAP haha.

Got an alternator/starter rebuilding shop in your town? I'm sure I do somewhere, just have to find it.

My alternator went out. Luckily I planned to upgrade soon so good timing! I will be upgrading the battery cables as well soon. I was going to just get a 100 amp from the parts store and have it rewrapped later on. Until I found this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/232120275292 Would this work on mine? I need a direct swap.

I did the work myself, yes. My unibody wasn't very damaged. Just had to beat some panels straight and swap the body panels over. From how yours looks I doubt the unibody is that damaged. That tow bar saved the front I believe. I would remove the tow bar personally and replace it with a front hitch so it is more useful than towing from behind an RV.

Here is one of my Mj's after I hit a deer going about 50. 3 weeks after I bought it. Your front damage doesn't look too much worse and the bed/cab damage could easily be beat out from what I can tell. And there it is after insurance totaled it out for 1800$ :D clean title non-salvaged. Geico is who I have for insurance and they took great care of me. Long story short it was 200$ after the cost of the new radiator and it was back on the road a week later. The damage is very fixable and if you want to drop it off at my house I'll take it off your hands no cost ;)

235/75r15 on TJ canyon wheels with a 1-1/8" lift up front to level things out since it's a 2wd. 1.25" spacers on the rear. (Excuse the crazy Nissan Hardbody. He has different tastes)

imgur is what I use

how can I look into this?

I've had some stalling out trouble sometimes at low speeds. And going up a mountain back when I was always in "Comfort" mode the truck would jolt every once in awhile like it was skipping. Might be due to a flex plate crack, who knows. I'm honestly hoping it's the flex plate since it's a bit cheaper to fix from what I've heard. I'll have to get around to pulling off the inspection plate sometime.

I still have a dummy light cluster so I can't tell if oil pressure drops unless it gets really low. Gotta get around to finding a full cluster and swapping it in haha.

Hey guys. Been hearing a knocking noise coming from the engine/tranny for quite a while (week after I got it). Have researched into it some and according to the almighty internet it's either my flex plate is cracked or it's a bearing going out. Just stumping me a little bit because it's coming from the rear of ghe engine/front of the tranny (I think) and it sometimes will do it as soon as it starts up and other times waits till it's warm. It gets faster and slightly louder when I rev the engine but ovviously dissapears once I get moving at a good speed (more than "parking lot" speed). Changed my oil and didn't find any chunks of metal and didn't have a glittery look. I've put 4k miles on it with this sound and haven't had a single problem other than it worries me a little bit. Engine runs good other than a little rich. I would have expected a bearing to disable the engine by now.

PM'd

I'm looking for some a little cheaper and without the sliders (less on shipping! Haha) thanks though!

I may have to take a road trip then if no one has brackets they could ship me :D thanks!

Looking for the seat brackets for a Manche. Bench or bucket, just the mounting brackets that I can bolt the bucket seat sliders to. Fixing to be stuffing another sub behind my seats and want to get rid of the bench seat as well so I plan to mod 97+ seats to fit but can't use my bench brackets because I need my Jeep drivable every day. Let me know, looking for cheap as possible!

My air filter does this on both of my MJ's, I'm considering just converting it to a cone filter to get rid of the box and fix the problem.

The 30" BBLB-1 bar from: http://detoursusa.com/bumperbrow.php kind of pricey but I think I'll get one one day. Thanks!

Where did you get the little "light bar" from? I kinda want one on my MJ now :D

I could have used one of those in 14mm a couple months ago when I was changing this ladie from works alternator... took me an hour just to get a wrench on the tensioner pulley at a good enough angle to loosen the belt. I hate newer cars for how tight the engine bays are. Only took me 20 minutes to change the alternator and get the belt back on once I got it off.