Knucklehead97

I just got off the phone with Joe and he said he will be chiming in on this thread soon. Since the price of steel has went up the group buy cost will be 170$ per spring plus shipping instead of 150$. Still a saving of 60$ compared to regular price. We need to get 5 people willing to purchase a pair of springs each. Shipping can be calculated by adding these springs to the cart and calculating at the checkout http://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/gsc-571.htm Let me know what you think, guys!

I'm doing this eventually as well since AX-15's are rare in Bama and AW4's are a dime a dozen... plus I really like my MJ that has an auto in it.

that's the main write-up I used, very nice! All that is left is running the lines. But the crappy autozone rental flare tool was messed up and screwed up all my flares so I may have to get another set of WJ lines. Or I will just but some bubble flared lines and add my double flares and bend and tada. Either way really hate auto stores rental tools.

Is that true even if the battery was drained to the point where it won't hold a charge? one time I jumped my brothers old XJ off, drove it to the auto parts store, and left it running while they tried to charge the battery for me. Disconnected the battery while the engine was running and it kept on truckin without a battery for over an hourHow on earth is this possible? Diesel is tho only thing I can come up with Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk it was a 97 XJ with an OBD2 HO. Not diesel at all haha.

Is that true even if the battery was drained to the point where it won't hold a charge? one time I jumped my brothers old XJ off, drove it to the auto parts store, and left it running while they tried to charge the battery for me. Disconnected the battery while the engine was running and it kept on truckin without a battery for over an hour

Unsure how much lift SOA would net you with these. More leafs in the pack as well so I see SOA being closer to 8"...

how did you eliminate the factory valve and which adjustable one are you running?

ended up winging it myself last night and am just drilling and grinding the current sensor hole to work. From what I read this morning I can use the MJ valve but I will be doing the same thing as you did later on. And I also decided to try my hand at flaring the ends and all that. It was hard enough finding new fittings I couldn't imagine finding adapters... the auto parts store guys around here are dimwit teenagers who don't know anything.

Wondering the same... from wgat I understand the 3/2 will net anywhere from 1.5-3" of lift depending on how sagged your springs are. No guarantee on lift which is why when I get mine I will be building the front lift after I install the springs.

I'm calling when I get back from Tennessee next Saturday to see what type of deal we could get this time, if at all. Just wanted to see what interest there was behind another group buy

One more question. Will I HAVE to cut the WJ lines and reflare them or is there an adapter I can buy that will screw into the valve and the WJ lines will thread into?

if this gets enough interested I'm going to call GS myself when I get back from Tennessee next Saturday. See if I can get this all set up for us again if enough people are in.

So upon bleeding my brakes after installing new hubs, calipers, and lines. Ends up my MC is spraying fluid from between it and the BB. So time for that WJ booster I bought. I have the booster/MC from a 2001 WJ, with the flex lines and fittings. I've read almost all the write-ups but still have a couple questions. 1, can I pull a automatic pedal assembly and brake switch from a newer XJ so that I do not have to modify the booster arm? 2, being that it is a WJ booster, that means I DON'T need to space it from the firewall. Correct? The one I got doesn't have a spacer even though I pulled it myself. 3, proportioning valve. I can't use the MJ one without upgrading the internals, correct? 4, rear height sensing valve. Do I need to bypass this before I do this mod or can I run with it the way it is? Very excited to do this mod as it has been on the backburner for a year now. Just need it to go as quickly as possible because I NEED my Jeep back on the road soon. I leave for Tennessee Tuesday morning and won't be back till Saturday morning. Obviously not driving the Jeep there. But would like to have the done as soon as I get back. I know these questions have been answered somewhere... just couldn't find it.

Is there any chance of us getting another run of 3/2's going? I'm in for a pair at 150$ each if we could get enough people interested

I just used bolts and nuts as well on both of my Jeeps. Works perfectly and easy to do!

thanks! The spacers only are noticable if you look at an MJ without them right before you look at one that does have them. 1.25" definitely isn't as noticable as those 2" and 3" spacers that kids run now a days. Too dangerous for me to run, eh? I even know guys that use them with 37" tires and the spacers are only LUG-centric!

that's the plan now since the engine is non-interference! Looking into getting the AC and heat fixed, putting a better subwoofer in the box I have, and cleaning up the whole car a little bit. Also got some oil leaks to take care of.

The Nissan 1.6l in my sisters Sentra has a chain instead of a belt though. While interference, the fact that it's a chain makes it much more reliable in my opinion. Have a rubber piece that is so crucial to the engine staying alive just isn't a good idea too me...

thanks for letting me know about the engine. I just did some research and my old mechanic was wrong. The engine is non-interference. So I definitely will be keeping this car for a bit longer. Still getting the belt replaced when I get back from Tennessee next week but at least I don't have to worry as much about a new engine if the belt decided to pop. And gosh, too bad you aren't closer. Those are nice :D

Shoot I would love the 2.0 in my Contour if it wasn't an interference engine that will pretty much self destruct if it jumps time... I've always loved SVT Hatch's. I like hatch's in general :D

The hubs I bought say they're for a composite rotor? I didn't realize that there was multiple types of hubs other than 2wd or 4wd?

Hubs and brake lines (ordered the Dorman ones off rockauto that have an extra 4" of travel for when I decide to lift a couple more inches) are on the way. Calipers will be picked up from Advance the day I do the work so I can bring the core up theres. A little confused with the hubs though. In the middle of the ones I bought there is grooves and a hole in the middle instead of there being a castle nut and cotter pin? What's up with that? The description said they were 2wd hubs.

If I could find a good CRX around here then I would jump on it. Sadly they've all been ruined by the ridiculous number of ricer groups around here... and Miatas definitely not out of the game. In the end it is VERY high on my list of cars I want to own.

To give more info this IS on my 2wd and I forgot to add that I swapped a 98 XJ's front beam in a couple months back. Changed everything on the axle other than... guess what.... THE CALIPERS AND HUBS! I noticed with the hubs when I bought the axle that they didn't spin freely very easily like my old 2wd axles rotor/bearing combo did. I'll have to check them out some more. I'm thinking my problem lies in the calipers and the slide pins because last time I checked there wasn't much grease in them. And also I have never flushed the brake fluid in this Jeep as I have only owned it for about 8 months. Was going to flush the system when I did my WJ MC/booster.

It's my 2wd. Wheel bearings are basically part of the hub, correct? How do I check them?