Knucklehead97

wait till Monday. Pretty sure they're closed till then. It may be too late, but never hurts to ask!

I just bled the brakes again. This time with my brothers pressing the pedal and me opening and closing the valve. I did 30 presses per valve, then cracked a front one and did 30 per rear valve, then closed the front one and did another 30 per valve. I just can't determine if this is how the pedal is supposed to feel... if I press hard enough it will go all the way to the floor. But the brakes lock up at about halfway down. I need to test them on asphalt but they locked up enough to slide 20 feet in my yard. I've just never had brakes that feel like this.

In my opinion the 746 injectors should be the first thing done to a Renix when purchased. They're cheap and as I figured out with my most recent Renix they REALLY help with a rough idle. Mine would stumble and sputter like crazy until I swapped the injectors.

The cover thankfully came with the sleeves and my new gasket came with the grommets.

Just managed to get me a valve cover off of a 98 ZJ. Found it on Ebay for 33$ shipped to me! :D even had the hoses and the CCV components seem to be in good condition. I already have a gasket and ect for it. The only things I'm wondering about are the bolts. What size are they? I figure since I'm doing it I might as well buy new hardware for it... also, do the studs serve a purpose or can I just throw more bolts in their place? Haven't really looked at them. Lastly, what size is the fitting for the rear hose to connect to the intake? Don't feel like going to a junkyard so I was just going to grab one from the hardware store.

Volvo 746 injectors are what are best for the Renix. Not sure what year and all they come out of because I buy mine refurbished from a guy named Programbo on Jeepforum. But a little research could answer that I'm sure

New booster is in. There is still an ever so slight hissing noise that increases with the rpms but the pedal is MUCH better than it was last night. The pedal is still spongey, though. So I will have to bleed more. But I believe once I get the bleeding done everything will be good.

Obviously something is wrong with the booster due to the sound it's making. The soft pedal just has stumped because everywhere is saying a bad booster causes a hard pedal. I can't see there being air in the lines because I literally ran a whole bottle through the MC before connecting the lines to the distribution block and then ran 2 bottles through the entire system doing the bleed all 4, crack a front fitting, bleed the rear, close fitting, bleed all 4. The whole system has 100% clean fluid.

I'll give it a shot and then change the booster if it doesnt work out. Looking at the booster rod that connects to the pedal it looks like the seal is blown out. I'm thinking it just can't hold vacuum.

It let air through while sucking and blowing. Not as much while blowing but it didn't hold pressure at all

I have the one from my MJ on it because it looked to be in better condition. I just went and checked both valves. The MJ one (which I have on it) is good. Lets vacuum suck through the valve but doesn't let air blow through. And the seal around the valve is tight. It takes a lot to push it in.

with speedperks 5$ off coupon and the 40$ off 100$ coupon I can get one tomorrow for about 160$ after taxes (I'll get back 65$ for the core). I just hate that I have to redrill and regrind the booster end. So do ya'll agree that it is most likely the booster being shot?

I pushed as hard as I could with both feet. Lifting me off my butt I was bracing my back against the seat so hard. And it went further down but was not soft in any way and never went more than halfway down. I stood on it for 30 seconds and it never dropped any more. Plus there is NO fluid drop in the MC. The constant snake hissing noise is what had me thinking its the booster.

thanks! With the jeep off the pedal is very firm and tight and doesn't drop at all. As soon as the Jeep starts the loud hissing begins and the pedal goes ALL the way to the floor. It slowly raises back up when I let off the brake but still goes right back down when pressed. Shut off the Jeep and the pedal goes back to being firm and nice...

So I worked my tail off and bled the living crap out of the brakes just to crank it up and hear a SUPER loud hissing noise coming from the brake pedal and the pedal had NO resistance on it. I'm guessing that means the brake booster is blown? I guess that's what I get for buying a used one...

Sounds good! I'm going to be working on cleaning up hoses next after I finish my WJ booster. Going to a 97+ valve cover and deleting a few hoses with a custom cowl intake (or just a cone, not sure yet) also going to brake line instead of vacuum line. Best of luck!

My Jeep is soon to be needing another oil change. Right now I use high mileage 10w30. What benefits come from the diesel oil? I've read up a little on it but everyone is back and forth with opinions. I take you guy's opinions much more seriously than other forums haha. I want to use whatever is best for the 4.0. I already run a bigger Ford filter.

I believe I ran 8AWG wire to it. I ordered 3ft of the wire from a dealer on Ebay and he added the correct size ring terminals for 50 cents more after I messaged him asking about it. It was about $3.50 shipped for the wire and terminals. It has my pod LED's and the 2 wires for my Putco(what was I thinking when I was 16...) H4 headlight harness running to it. The red wire connected straight to the terminal (non-fused) is my stereos 12V constant. I used a dab of sealant around each of the 4 screws because you will be drilling through the firewall and possible causing leaks if not sealed properly (if you place your fuse block in the same place I did. As you can see, I added a small relay center beside the fuse block. And yes, ground them to the chassis of the Jeep. I try to keep my battery posts as clean and wireless as possible. It's a pet peeve of mine. I will be doing this same set up, but cleaner and more professional, on my new MJ. The one pictured is on my other one which I'm not as strict about. Hope this helped :D

that fuse block is actually VERY nice. I have one on my other Jeep and it really cleaned up my battery post. I can snap a pic some time, if you want.

Is there a link to these reproduction visors somewhere? very interested in this

I did. Still had a little trouble getting the hard sections bent to where they wouldn't make tightening with a wrench a big pain. I'm sure there was an easier way to route them, but all that matters is it is done :D

why am I not surprised that you got a perfect one the first time? Thanks for driving that point home. Those tools have been rented by guys that could mess up an anvil with a rubber mallet. the lines were a pain to get twisted and bent into place but they're in there and not leaking! They aren't pretty but they work. Gotta get a line bender that can do tighter bends. Everything is hooked up and the pedal is tight. I've been through one round of bleeding but have to get another bottle of fluid before I bleed the bypass valve and do the last round of regular bleeding. I ran a whole bottle through the dry master cylinder by sticking the distribution block ends of the lines into 1/4" clear hose and sticking the other ends of the hose in a bottle of fluid. I used 2 pairs of pliers to crimp the clear lines each time my brother pressed the pedal. Kind of like closing the bleeder valve for regular caliper bleeding. Got most of the bubbles out that way and the rest should come out with the extensive amount of fluid I'm running through the whole system. It'll all be clean fluid by the time I'm done :D

this one is posted in the classifieds currently as well. I thought the same as you on the use of the word "restored".

My flare kit came in today and I've been messing with it. What did I get on the first try? A PERFECT flare. Those autozone rentals just can't be trusted!!!

VERY nice. It's now on my list!