Knucklehead97

I'm wanting to get together the parts to do this but the DIY post just says "empty post" now

I ordered the 33-104652 for the rear and the 33-230351 for the front. The rears showed up and fit PERFECTLY but I'm going to send the fronts back as soon as they come in because I realized my BPE's add 1.25" of length so the fronts that I ordered would only have about 2 or 3" of up travel before they bottomed out. I ordered the 33-230337's and they should be perfect with the eliminators. Going Thursday to pick up Rusty's Off-road sway bar disconnects because Rusty's Off-road is 20 minutes from my house and the disconnects have really good reviews. I got Moog k80036's but they're about 3" too short so I said screw it and am going to get beefy adjustable ones. I went all out with the rest of the suspension so I might as well go beefy on the last few bits! Once the front shocks get here I will begin adjusting everything and getting it all bolted down. Now I'm just trying to decided whether I want to run 32/1150's or 31/1050's. Just not sure if I could fit the 32's easily. Also if anyone needs bolts for cheap, check out Bolt Depot.com. I got m10-1.5/90mm metric 10.9 flange bolts and flange lock nuts for the axle side of my UCA's and it only cost 10$ shipped. Fastenal wanted 25$

North Alabama is currently a wet mess... Super humid.

Could just be a 5$ hose man.

Pull the assembly and see if the rubber hose in the tank is good. If it cracked or slipped off then I would think the pump could only get enough fuel when the tank is fuller

Perfect. I think I see the ones I need. 2 questions though. I have been looking at Monroe coil-over load leveling shocks for the rear. But would those be overkill paired with my metric ton springs? Secondly, do the Stem/eye Bilsteins not have a bar pin? I ordered eliminators either way to save some trouble, just was curious. Thanks guys!

It sounds to me like your fuel pump is overheating and shutting down. Is it making a lot of noise?

I should have been more specific on the Bilsteins part. I've been looking at the non-reservoir 5100's due to them being within my budget of 100$ a shock. Sadly not sure if any 5100's without the reservoir are going to be long enough.

I know this has been beaten to death, but I'm a little confused. I'm running about 4" of lift in the front and 3" in the back. The distance between the upper and lower shock mounts is 21 1/2" in the front and 23" in the rear. That means I should get a shock with 26" extended length for the front and 27 1/2" for the rear, correct? The shocks that Bilstein has listed for an XJ's 3.5-4" lift are only 24.61" extended. That would only give 3" of travel for the front. For the rear there was a set of Bilsteins recommended here for a 4" lift but they only have 24.35" extended length which would only give 1 1/2" of travel for the rear. Am I doing the math wrong or what? I know I should worry about collapsed length too but honestly I don't ever see myself flexing it nearly enough to worry about that, but I will bumpstop properly when I get the shocks I need. Considering I do plan to buy Bilsteins since there doesn't seem to be a less expensive quality option, I would like to make the correct purchase the first time. Thanks for any help!!

Or do like me and grab some Metric Ton springs from General Spring. Pricey, but I can load a thousand pounds and not even touch the overload springs. It's pretty sweet!

Gotta start putting together a rear sway bar kit and find a 28mm front bar...

I'm at about 4" I think. I was thinking about getting quick disconnects, but I never plan to flex this thing so 10$ sounds better than 120$! Going to grab the relocation brackets and the longer bars to see how it turns out. Will the relocation bracket work with my front tow hitch? It bolts through the sway bar holes and the sway bar sits on top of it

Got the control arms adjusted and mostly installed! Gotta get longer axle-side UCA bolts because they didn't have enough threads for me to bolt down with, they had enough to test the height of things though. All together I think I had about 3 1/2" in the front of lift and 3 in the back. I love the way it's sitting now, just needs 31's or 32's. Next on my list to purchase is a double shear Trac bar (RE1600 with re1665 bracket),longer swaybar ends with disconnects, and shocks. My old shocks can't even bolt down anymore. One issue I'm having though, is this, The sway bar comes really close to my ZJ coils. What can I do about that?

Got my ACOS and V8ZJ coils in the mail and started installing, when i let the axle droop to remove the coils, I realized even with taking off the metal on the shock mount, I still wasn't happy with the WJ control arms. So I ordered adjustable uppers and lowers and they'll be here Wednesday. After I'm done, I should have 3.5-4" of lift in the front, so how should I go about the measurments for the control arms? Never messed with adjustables before, so not sure on the process of length.

I'm just not going to rear discs anytime soon. WhenI install my 8.25 I already have brand new drum brakes on it haha.

I'm just getting opinions and everything on multiple options for the brake system. Including the idea of completely deleting the distribution block and adding my own switches for the brakes. I'm MOST likely going to keep the distro block, bypass/delete the LSV (Hornbrod, it's yours if you want it!) add an adjustable valve for the rear, and see how I feel about that. My only problem with the distribution block is that the holes are only .050". But running 2 aftermarket switches and completely deleting the block is seeming like more work than I feel like doing on brakes currently. SO if it was you adding an adjustable valve for the rear lines, would you install it before or after the distribution block? And just to be sure, the distribution DOES NOT limit rear brakes at all compared to the front ones once you bypass the LSV, correct?

Thats my main thing now that I think about it, is safety. Especially if you have 1000+ pounds sometimes in the bed. I just can't decide if i should do a separate sensor for the front lines and the back lines.

Now my question is, if you were to go the route of adding an aftermarket warning light switch and using a T on the front lines (completely deleting the distribution block) , would you have to use 2 warning light switches? One for the front lines and one for the back?

He probably ran that one to the soft line that drops from the frame to a T end on the axle which then go's to each drum. The soft line is what you have to worry about stretching during a lift.

I actually REALLY like that small of a valve. I probably am going to cancel the YJ valve and order one of those. The main thing about that that i like is the rings and numbers on it to help with adjustment, and the set screw. Seems pretty fool-proof.

If the YJ valve doesn't satisfy me then I will be going with an adjustable one next. And I'll definitely add my opinion of it in the DIY topic once I get an opinion of it. It'll be a couple months, though. Gotta finish mylift and some other things before I order 31's and get her back on the road. One step at a time as far as mounting the valve, for adjustment on the go. If you were 2wd like me then you could always fab a mount and put it where the T-case lever would usually be. There's plenty of good places for it. The hardest part would be the mount and then re routing the lines.

Your tutorial is actually what got me looking into it! I ended up ordering a YJ one off of Ebay. It was shipped for 30$ so i figured I would give it a try. The max I'll probably have in the best is about 1000. And that would be rare. But the main purpose of my MJ is to pull a 12' long trailer.

I just found out that the YJ valve reduces the rear brakes pressure by 20%. That doesnt sound like much to me.

Howdy guys! Been looking at options for proportioning valves for the brake system. My rear lift has ended with about 3" of lift and I'm happy with that. But since I plan to use the jeep to carry loads of whatever and pull a trailer, I want to make sure my stopping power is there. I've already installed a WJ booster/MC, just gotta work out the kinks with it. Have new 94+ XJ brakes up front, and have replaced the rear brakes. Soon enough I will have an 29 spline 8.25 with new drum brakes. The truck will be driven empty a lot, but also be driven loaded down a good bit (wood, gravel, bricks, ect). I've already decided I am ditching the rear load sensing valve due to not wanting to mess with the bleeding procedure and not wanting to risk it exploding under heavy brakes, i just don't like the idea of it. The option Ive really been interested in is a YJ proportioning valve. Or just using a hand adjusting valve and t-fitting the front brake lines. My problem with the adjustable valve, though, is setting it for an emptyload, and then having to reset for a heavy load. But I just don't know much about the YJ proportioning valve. How big are the canals for the YJ one? .050 like the MJ? Or bigger? Is there a setting for the adjustable one that could work for loaded and unloaded driving? I just want to make sure I have the best stopping power possible. And on a side note... could someone tell me what size Speed Bleeders I need for 94 XJ front brakes and a dana 35 in the rear? They seem like they may come in handy for me. Thanks!!!

Sadly it's only got the axle to frame measurements. I'll probably end up measuring Thursday when I'm offwork, unless someone chimes in with definitive flare-hub measurements I'm hoping that's what stock is. With these springs I've got 24.5" flare-hub so after the springs settle I expect 23.5". I'm going to have to bring the front up a good bit for sure.