Knucklehead97

They're Cooper AT3's so not cheap Walmart tires at all I'm going to check the tightness of everything today and will probably order new tie rod ends. The one that was spinning is the long solid one that connects to the drag link down close to the passenger side tire. I did get it tightened down enough, but feared it was shot anyways. I forgot to add that a year ago when I put the Jeep under the knife to be lifted and fix the brakes (master cylinder blew so I went with a WJ set up) the Jeep did have full on death wobble at 45-55 MPH. I drove it like this for about 30 miles and I feared the wobble destroyed a few steering parts.

Brand new tires balanced when they were mounted. Set toe in and caster angle myself per the instructions I was given on here. Control arms swapped with aftermarket ones, RE double shear Trac bar, new hubs, sway bar links replaced with adjustable quick disconnects, and Bilstein shocks.

Well it was too good to be true apparently... Jeep had no issues the past few months with going smoothly down the road as fast as I wanted. But today I was going about 55 and all of a sudden I felt it try to go into a wobble-spree. Slowed down and it still had a slight wobble too it but didn't go full Death Wobble on me. Tomorrow I'm going to check to make sure everything's tight under there but I'm thinking I'm gonna have to look into it a little. Everything has been replaced with beefy parts except for my steering, which was replaced about a year ago with ZJ V8 steering (Moog brand). Upon adjusting my toe in when I lifted, I did find one of the tie rod ends to be spinning and I had trouble tightening it due to it spinning inside the housing. Think this is where I need to start? Also, should I just go through the trouble of upgrading to 1 ton steering? I find it ridiculous that the Moog has already burnt itself out...

LUCKY! The Facebook groups for Comanches that I'm in are about as annoying as the regular local buy/sale/trade groups I'm in. I only keep it around for the occasional good find. The only people I listen to on the Facebook groups are people that I know I've gotten good advice from on here

I run Havoline High Mileage Synthetic blend 10w30 in my north Alabama driven MJ. Does real good with it and the new Havoline 6-quart boxes are only like 14$... I run the same thing in my daily driven 97 Sentra with almost 200k on it. I change the oil every 3k in my MJ and every 8k in my Sentra (I drive it 58 miles one way to work)

Perfect, thanks! That's basically how I thought everything would work, just wanted to make sure before I started wiring. And camp stove was more so an example of what type of current I'm going to need. Doing this isn't going to cost me much because I have an extra brand new battery already, and an extra battery tray. So I realistically see me being able to do this for about 120$ and I figure why not do it if it's gonna be inexpensive.

I'm putting it where the airbox was. I have a cowl intake, forgot to add that into my first post. As far as the oil pressure switch goes, what's the pro's compared to just using an IGN wire connection?

I looked into the Marine switch but couldn't find a good place in the cab to mount it because in all honesty Its an eye sore to me and I would hate to have it easily seen in the cab my main reason for wanting to use a solenoid/isolator was so it was automatic with the possibility of a pushbutton jump start. From what ya'll are saying, though, I think I know how my wiring is going to go. Basically the above diagram with the push button wired how I said. And I'm going to try adding a switch into the solenoids IGN power wire so I can choose to just charge the positive battery to save from the batteries leveling out and possibly causing issues. Probably will add a voltage meter for each battery so I can see the levels in the cab. As far as going to the extreme with this... I don't plan to. I have chosen to run the inverter off of jumper cables when needed, because realistically I won't need it often. I also don't have a winch or anything to require a massive load. When I do use an inverter, it'll only be for a camp stove and other small things so I guess it won't technically be a "big" inverter.

Decided to tinker around with adding a second battery since I have a spare battery tray and an itching to add stuff to my Jeep. Also going to run AC outlets to the bed and one inside the cab with a big inverter (another main reason I'm installing a second battery). My main question is wiring. I found this diagram which seemed simple enough but I wanted to add a momentary switch just to jumpstart the Jeep without using jumper cables. Could I do that just by running a switch between a wire that goes from the aux battery to the solenoid switch terminal? Seemed to make sense to me. Also, where would/have y'all added AC outlets in your Jeep? I want to see everything! I'm also working on finding where I'm going to mount my inverter...

Buy one of these. It adapts the hard line to the soft line so you don't have to reflare.

Safety is definitely first for me cause I can't play around with my eyes or skin. Always going to be welding away from fluids and other flammable stuff, and always will have my mask on before I start. I have a few friends that have tried tac welding by looking between their fingers and burnt their eyes...

I always wanted to but sadly I don't have a set schedule at work. I could be opening every day for a week and then the next week be working nights I have a friend who works in a fab shop and said he would show me a thing or two when we both are off. My angle grinder has been my best friend in a lot of situations. Mostly situations where it was my last ditch effort to make something fit, but still applicable

I plan to finish my exhaust using this welder as well. That'll be a great first project after practicing a bunch. And I figure if I can get decent welds from this welder, then later on when I have a real good welder I'll be able to get super good beads. I'd like to learn how to stick weld but Flux peaked my interest way more.

I have an extremely steady hand so I'm hoping that helps with me on not being glued to the table

This is what I got for a helmet. Due to the ratings and auto darkening feature. I plan to wear a long sleeve thick button up that I use during messy Jeep work, along with my leather apron and welding gloves. All of my welding will be done outdoors. I wish I had a shop and the means for a better welder, but this will work for now!!!

Since my Jeep's back on the road and I'm slowing down building it for a bit while I am waiting on my next promotion (just applied for it) and possibly will have to relocate/purchase my own house. I decided to buy everything necessary to begin a hobby I have ALWAYS been interested in... Welding! Picked up a cheap Amazon Flux Core welder after a couple weeks of reading reviews on it and the HF one. Also picked up gloves, welding table from HF, slag hammer, ect, ect... All the bear necessities! All together I'm in it about 300$ which I'm perfectly fine with for a welder that will allow me to learn without being out a bunch of money if I either don't care for welding, or break it being myself. I would have loved to of gotten a name brand 220v mig but have nowhere inside to weld and don't have a 220v outlet. Haven't used it, just got the wire fed through it and watched some tutorials about Flux Core. But am excited to get started. This will mainly be used to tack the perches on to my 8.25 when I start building it and to fix my door hinges before I install removable 97+ doors. If anyone has any tips that'd be highly appreciated! Also had to have the ol' blue turd in the background!

4" front 3" back completely redone suspension with GS metric tonne, military wrapped leaf springs. 265/75/15 tires. Turned out exactly how I wanted

I'm just wondering how this happens just all of a sudden with no warning

Exactly how much trouble is fixing the dropped rockers? Just pulling that head and ect?

I thought about it but I just bought an engagement ring, built the suspension in my Jeep, about to put a down payment on a house, and already have 2 immobile cars in my mom's yard. We're probably just going to Craigslist it sadly. Transmission, transfercase, and everything else is perfect on it. I just bought her brand new tires for it as well which is really upsetting to me.

Changed the plugs and it didn't change anything. Upon pulling the other 3 plugs I hadn't messed with, I found 2 and 4 to be covered in gas. Pretty sure at least one rocker arm dropped. Sadly that's the side with the valve cover that requires a lot of things to be removed before you can actually pull the cover.

New 97+ arms are available on Rock Auto for about 40$ shipped for both. Ordered them and some Napa beam blades as soon as my MJ was back on the road.

I'll probably pull the valve cover tomorrow to check the rocker arms if the new plugs don't fix it. Why would the engine run fine for 5 minutes today if it dropped a rocker arm?

Sounds just like the situation I'm in... Hmm. I'm hoping its just the coils. Mom doesn't like the 250$ car payment

I'll give that a try tomorrow when I get off work, with some new spark plugs in it. The idle was going up and down at it's worst. It was odd. It would rev, then go down, then rev, then go down, and ect.