Knucklehead97

When testing the black wire it came back with .002 OHMs. Testing the orange wire for voltage with the key in the on position did not show any voltage unless the black terminal of my multimeter was grounded through the grey wire (c on the plug). It only showed 5 volts though. Even grounding the black terminal of the multimeter through the frame did not show a reading on the orange wire.

That's what I figured. Not too sure where I'm going to start next.

My pins were not labeled but I tested the red and black wires and got exactly 6 OHMs. Is this test to be done with the engine hot, or cold?

So for a few months now my MJ has been running rough once it idles for about a minute after start up. Gets worse as it heats up. I've checked everything. 02 sensor, CPS, TPS, MAP, IAT, CTS, cleaned throttle body (it's a bored out one. Clean as a whistle). I've tightened my intake bolts and plan to change my exhaust manifold and the gasket soon to rule out any possibility of a leak. I've deleted the EGR and the Jeep already had the Cat cut off (planning to redo the whole exhaust and add a cat again to regain the back pressure). I've refreshed grounds and indexed the distributor. Changed plugs/cap/wires/rotor within 5000 miles ago. Tested fuel pressure and the regulator and both check out as good. Any idea where I should start next? It's frustrating me because I want to get it running perfectly before I continue doing other work to it.

The trucklite knock off's on Amazon are great, inexpensive upgrades to the headlights. Plus the relay upgrade has made a night and day difference for me. I love LED's and am slowly swapping all of my lights to them. Including making custom marker/turn signals out of 3/4" LED'S. @Keyav8r how much for a set of those courtesy lights?

Could I get a link to where to get these? These look GREAT.

Great! Probably will end up being in this about 800$. Not too bad for all the parts. The average cost for a 2wd AX-15 seems to be 200-500$ around here. Now just to save up, get permission from the wife, and find one that I feel I won't have to rebuild once I buy it used...

I just remembered that the flywheel is different for an HO engine (91+). Will I need an HO flywheel or one for the same year as my Renix?

Awesome. So from my parts Jeep I already have with a manual in it I need to grab: Pedal assembly. Trans tunnel cover CPS? ECU Then I need to buy: Transmission from 94+ XJ Flywheel/clutch Pre-bled slave/master cylinder Then I POSSIBLY need to get my driveshaft adjusted? Is the spline count different between 89 Auto's and 94 manuals? And yes, I will be getting a Hurst short throw shifter as soon as I install this thing

Awesome, thanks! Why do I need a 94-98 clutch pedal assembly? Are they better?

So I've decided that I want my Jeep to be a stickshift. I miss shifting gears. It's currently a 4x2 auto and I want to swap to a manual 4x2 (4x4 AX-15's are HARD to come by here, and I really don't need 4x4.) What all would I need? Just tranny, clutch, flywheel, slave/master, and the pedal assembly? I have my old stickshift MJ with the blown PukeGoat in it at my mom's house and I could grab the pedal assembly from it. Plus it had a brand new heavy duty LUK clutch/flywheel in it which I could grab to save money. There's plenty of 4x2 AX-15's within driving distance from me for around 300$. I just want to see what all would be involved. Would I have to change the transmission mount or the driveshaft?

I got the adapter/harness made up and it works great! It only cost about 25$ to make. Used 15ft of 10awg stranded wire because I needed to have a single separate wire to go to a nearby 110vplug for the ground circuit (you can see it in the lower part of the picture) I removed the second slant post on the 220v plug so that there wasnt extra power going into it that could possibly mess things up.

I've used these in both of my MJ's. Both had the port.

195 Mopar thermostat and I hardly ever get up to 195. Since I removed the dented AC condenser the airflow has been so good that even sitting in traffic it takes a WHILE to get to 195

This is what I have. I absolutely adore it. It's the PERFECT amount of bass for me, especially considering the amp comes with a bass knob. Turns up loud enough to drown out all the music and make noise for the people beside you to hear, but goes down low enough to just be complimentary of the other frequencies. I bought it as a package deal on Amazon. If I was to do it again, I would just buy the amp and sub/box separate because the wiring kit was garbage. The Amp isn't the best brand but I have had no issues in the 2 years I've had it. I also have kicker 5 1/4" speakers up front. Plan to replace them with 6.5"s eventually with separate tweeters. There's no reason to have speakers in the stock back location.

You checked your TRANS fuse? Mine blows often (looking into why) and whenever it does, I don't have backup lights.

Awesome. I think I can handle that soon. Thanks a bunch for the help guys!

The ol' girl saved me from having to rent A Uhaul when my wife and I moved into our house. With the tractor supply co trailer I rented for 25$ it took one trip for all of my stuff and one trip for my wife's stuff. My Jeep handled the miles on the interstate no problem!

I think I get the wiring now. So, for the ground, considering I have a 110v grounded outlet nearby, could I just use something like this to connect ONLY the ground terminal to the 110 outlet? So basically neutral to the L-shaped terminal of the NEMA 10-30 plug, then the hot wire to ONE of the slant terminals, and then a separate 110v plug with only 1 wire connected for the ground circuit to be complete. Lastly, I'm guessing this all needs to be stranded wire, not solid?

Managed to get a couple pictures before work this morning. Hope they help. And yes, the workshop/washroom is quite dirty. Got some work to do on it

I really like this idea, not too sure on the wiring for that though. I can take a picture of my 220 plug when I get home tomorrow.

The bigger welder is very far in the future, I just want to plan ahead since I like to weld and don't want to be limited to my little 110v in the far future. And no I do not plan to do any of the wiring myself as far as replacing/adding a panel to get the wiring up to code. That all will be professionally done if we buy the house. This house is in fantastic condition inside and underneath. The roof was replaced just before I started renting it and the interior was almost completely remodeled. The only thing that is lacking is the wiring. But if we buy it then my wife and I plan to stay here for a long time considering it's in a GREAT area for us. But anyways, back on topic. I just really am looking for a possible quick, yet safe solution to continue practicing with my 110v without breaking the bank (marriage is pricey). If there isn't a quick and easy solution then I guess I'll just have to wait and see if I get to buy the house or not. Also thanks for all the congrats on the marriage!

Howdy guys! So about 2 months ago I moved into a new to me house in Birmingham. Finally got myself and my wife (that happened 2 weeks ago!) settled in. We're only renting the house, but we love it so much that we're talking to the owners about purchasing it from them after our lease is up. My issue is that I have no idea how I'm going to practice welding at this house. I have my 110v welder but I was overloading the 20AMP breaker at my old house whenever I had it set to 3/4 power or higher. This house I'm renting is older and does not have a breaker box, it only has an older style fuse panel with 2 big fuses for the stove, water heater/clothes dryer, and a big fuse for the total houses power. Then 4 30AMP fuses for individual circuits around the house. My washroom is part of my little workshop area where I plan to weld and I could easily get to the 220v plug for my dryer. Is there a such thing as an adapter for the 220v outlet so I could plug my welder to it? If so, do yall believe this is the best route? Otherwise, what ideas do y'all have? If we buy the house after our lease I plan to have the fuse panel replaced with a new breaker box and will have multiple extra circuits installed. Including 2 more 220v circuits, 1 for an air compressor and 1 for a bigger welder when I get the chance to purchase it. Hopefully I explained my situation well enough, sorry for any confusion. Thanks!

Upon looking more into headers I found that the best reasonably priced header is an APN for HO engines (fits renix with proper downpipe and slight grinding of intake) but sadly no where carries them anymore from what I can tell is pacesetter and Ebay the only options now for decently priced ones?

This one is a little pricey but that downpipe looks like it fixes the issue of the stock downpipe having a crush in it from factory. Could easily be cut and have a flex added to it as well. Probably going to go with this when I decide to change my exhaust header. (Doing it on my Sentra soon since the catalytic converter is built into the manifold... Might just do both the same day.) EDIT: just realized this is the one the OP originally linked