Knucklehead97

Upon greasing it filled itself up. Everything lined up great and shes back on the road with a fresh axle!

the front axle after I got through building it. With the WJ arms and ZJ steering. Getting the truck up high enough to rip the axle out was fun... I kind of like it this high Taking the old axle out took about 4 hours. But that was with a LOT of sweet tea breaks and just observing everything so I didn't lose any parts. and done! Sits almost perfectly level now. About a 1/4" lower in the front than in the rear. Wish it sat a LITTLE lower in the front but I'll probably add the rubber isolators to the front and my XJ 2" lift shackles to the rear and it should be about the right height. Fine with it as is for now. But I have to say, the ZJ steering and WJ arms are AMAZING. This thing handles like a dream now and takes bumps so smoothly. Very happy with my decisions. Took some work to fit the upper and lower WJ arms but it was worth it. The shocks bottom out before the arms do. But I did have to do some trimming to the upper bucket and the lower shock mount, nothing too bad. I recommend it all. Also, can use the TJ Canyon center caps now (is it bad that's the entire reason I swapped out the axle?)

Great! Old front axle is now removed.. tomorrow the new one will be installed. Very happy about it because I found some brake problems as I dug into my old axle today.

Spicer. Whichever part number was recommended by everywhere I researched haha. Everything seems to line up right. Had no trouble.installing everything.

It's a 2wd axle so axle shafts are not a problem. I'll check the levelness and how it lines up with the rest of the axle, anyways, to be sure it's right. It was like this on the other end as well.

I'm ready to see how much lift they give you. I want some but don't want much lift if any.

Hey guys. Putting together the 94 XJ axle I'm building for my MJ and I was kind of concerned with this gap the upper balljoint has. Should I worry? I read up a little and apparently the gap is filled when you grease it. Just didn't have this with my Driveworks joints I put on my other MJ. Wanted to check with ya'll before I went further. Everything is torqued up and the cotter pins lined up perfectly.

when I bought my most recent MJ I had to change the thermostat housing gasket. After I did that, the belt started chirping. No matter how much I tightened the belt it would do it. I've been driving it for months and havn't had a problem. The chirping comes and goes. Still can't find where it's coming from.

unrelated but where in North Alabama are you? I'm in Attalla/Gadsden!

I would do that, but I have no way at all to change a complete engine right now haha. Sadly I got to crunching numbers and I couldn't afford to keep my MJ, Ford, and the XJ if I got it. I would sell the Ford but it gets such good gas mileage and I drive a long way to work. I may be having to wait on finding an XJ to buy. Theres a 4 cylinder, stickshift, 4×4 older model up the road that's clean ad ever but never moved from it's spot. Thinking about looking into it since it's older and would be cheaper on insurance, would get better gas mileage, and is 4x4. Just things to think about. Gotta talk to my buddy selling the blown head gasket one as well though.

Also how tough is a headgasket? I've kind of looked into it but never really paid attention to how hard it was.

I kind of want a Cherokee and my friend just so happens to be selling his. It's a 1998, 2wd, 4.0/aw4, with 188k on the entire thing. Had no problems until he was going up a mountain and the waterpump went out apparently. Blew the headgasket according to his mechanic. My friend is moving and doesn't want to mess with it. He's selling it for 1000$ but said I could have it for 700$. But that was a couple months ago. I may be able to get it for 500$ now. It's clean. Tan interior, red exterior. How much in parts am I looking at and is there anything I should be worried is messed up other than the gasket and pump? I could either flip this thing or sell my car and have an XJ and two MJ's haha.

I measured it all and without the isolators it should level out correctly. Glad that it's safe to run wjthout them!

I've done it 3 times on two different Jeeps and never had a leak. I just used a Felpro gasket, a thin layer of RTV on both sides to keep it in place, and MAKE SURE to torque the bolts to spec. They can snap and/or crack the housing very easily. I believe it was 13 ft-lbs.

that's the ones I have! Just put the new orings on. Going to install them when I install my front axle when I go on vacation soon. I'm going to do a can of BG in the fuel system and a can of seafoam through the vacuum system. If the idle still is there after that and a tune up then I'm moving to sensor testing!

If it's like my toolboxes lock was then you just take a nut off the ba k of the lock and the whole thing pops out. Took it to a locksmith and boom 10$ later I had 3 keys.

I have a 99 stock bumper currently mounted to my 89. Literally almost every part up front of a 99 can be swapped over in some way. I see no reason it wouldn't work. May need a little modification but mostly bolt on I would think.

If it had been saying that my Jeep was a Metric Ton then I would be asking the PO where my dang D44 is at...

Much better! Very accurate. Can't scroll right to see the rest that's cut off though but I doubt it's important. Not sure why it has Metric Ton/Big Ton on there though? Mine is just a regular ol' Comanche from what I can tell.

Maybe 1.75" will be close enough to what I want. I just fear it beung higher in the front and looking terrible.

I think that adding 1.75" spacers would make the front look higher than the rear, which is why I was going to try out running without the isolators. I need to do the measurements again but last time I checked I believe it ended with just under 1.5" raising it to where I liked it.

I ran my Vin number through the decoder that Hornbrod posted in the DIY section and guess what? It came up as an 89 4x4 8-foot bed J10! How crazy, I've thought this whole time that it was an MJ :D

When I install the front axle I'm building I want to try and level out my trucks suspension. Last time I checked a 1.5" spacer would get it about right, probably a little less. But I already have two sets of 1.75" spacers that I got for a good deal and would prefer not to buy more pucks. Could I remove the rubber insulator (it's 5/8"'s right?) And run the pucks without it? That would get it JUST about where I want it, I think, I just don't know if it's safe. Searching has brought up mixed opinions of course. I trust you guy's opinions way more than random people in my search bar.

I think I'm going to grab two bottles and use one on the gas and one through the vacuum once I get my Volvo injectors installed. Hoping it will clear up this idle a little bit, can't stand a jiggly running engine haha.

So my auto Jeep is idling pretty dang rough at times. Stumbling pretty bad. I'm going to start with the simple stuff. Volvo injectors (do they use the same Orings as stock injectors?) Plugs, cap, rotor, and wires. And I was thinking about seafoaming the engine. This Jeep wasn't driven much so I'm thinking some things are clogged up. Have any of yall ever done this with good results? How do you do it?