Minuit

Intriguing

Most of them were Japanese export models re-imported into the US when they were relatively new and low mileage, and driven til the wheels fell off by mail carriers. Don't know if I've ever personally seen one rocking leather seats though.

I have little to no time to help anyone with anything right now. There is a small chance that I already have a pulled unit.

Also, the 97+ ones are better than the factory 96- ones and have superseded them. The older ones didn't have a rubber stop at the end of travel to protect the door hinge from being overextended.

An intermittent circuit of some kind would be at the absolute top of my list of suspects, and the wire from the coil to the distributor having an intermittently bad connection would cause every single problem you've seen. Unfortunately, we are now in a climate where "I replaced it" does not mean you can automatically assume "it is good", and just as often means "it is bad right out of the box". I often find myself preferring 30 year old NOS or good used parts to the brand new stuff you can buy these days, and bad aftermarket parts are at least 10% of why I'm bald at age 26.

I hate appliances. SO. MUCH. A family friend recently went through 3 fridges before he got one that didn't have an immediate failure or some type of defect right off the bat.

That's a neat little site. There's not much in Alabama but I did see some possibly suitable spaces near my house in TN.

Muscle Shoals/Florence area. Thanks!

Hey peoples, With me starting my job soon and moving to Alabama not long after, I've been thinking that it be good to get access to some kind of off-site shop space where it is socially acceptable to store and work on multiple project vehicles, since I'd be renting a house to start off. It wouldn't need to be much - space to store two cars plus tools indoors with room to work around them. A lift would be super amazing to have. Does anyone do this, and does anyone know of a good place to look for spaces like this?

Gimme

I have either a '97 or '98 linkage in my 91 with the original motor swapped on, because the plugs are different. At some point I'll swap a newer motor in to see if it improves the speed, because my friend's 2000 XJ has wipers like you'd expect on a normal car.

Step on the brakes hard and see if they catch then. The ones in my 91 are original and catch when stopping, but not when pulled.

This bit's important. If it's not fuel injection rated hose, you'll be doing it again in a year or less. And don't just assume it's fuel injection rated. You usually have to ask specifically for it, the guys at the part store might not even know they carry it, and it's more expensive than the regular stuff. There's also immersion rated fuel hose. That's even more expensive and is designed to go inside of a fuel tank. If regular hose is used inside of a fuel tank it will break down and cause fuel starvation. That's why you should always use the hose that comes with a new fuel pump.

-2 with a WC of -18 the night before last, and a little warmer today. Rolling power outages for part of the day because TVA can't keep up with demand. Of course, we have gas heat and are literally using no more electricity than any other time but we still get to pay the price while Nashville's football stadium stays lit up all night. Boo.

I know we're joking around a little bit here, but Add in the janky manual tensioner setup that is somewhat prone to being damaged, and it can be annoying to get right.

That looks really good. Is that a stitch running across the corner of it?

Tighten the belt. If noise persists, record noise and seek further counsel.

Best way to do it is with parts from a 91 or 92 XJ. Everything that's a part of the system is relatively easily removed from the donor and installed in the MJ. All you need to do is install the parts and supply power and ground to the system, which is done simply by plugging into an empty slot in the fuse box. 91-92 XJs with power windows came with power locks and keyless entry (which can be connected to a more modern receiver for improved range), and as a bonus they came pre-wired for power mirrors even if they didn't have them.

Good stuff. Love the little things like the low washer light to round out a build. I find it very interesting that you had the exact same results with your TU108 sensor vs the Mopar version as I did. Wonder if the thermistor inside is specced improperly? At the time I chalked it up to a single inaccurate sensor, but I have to wonder if it's all of them. If so, that's a lot of "overheating" trucks that are actually just fine.

Well, I guess you know what you're doing next!

Record the noise.

96 are the exact same, but with more durable plastic. No clue on 97+ but surely they have to be fairly close. Are there any intact non-crumbly 95- wheel well liners left?

Check for oily residue on the serpentine belt. You may also want to check or have checked the belt tension. Is your AC operational? Throughout my MJ ownership, that's been the one consistent source of belt squeals - the refrigerant oil leaks through the front compressor seal onto the belt and pulleys.

We had that at some point (not sure if we still do) as part of the Tapatalk mobile app. That's the "days won" thing on your profile - the number of days where your posts had the most likes of anyone. I agree that bring it over to the site proper would be a good thing. It would help build thread authors see that people are reading without commenting, and would be a way for people to show appreciation for tech posts and answers to questions without necessarily needing to make a whole post.

WRONG! In a 532 mile road trip yesterday, I saw two: a stock 87-90 Sportruck on the back of a trailer heading east on I-40, and an 87-90 Pioneer with aftermarket wheels in a little vintage car lot kind of place in a tiny town I can't remember the name of in east TN.