Minuit

Sorry to say that I've come to the decision that even though I COULD drive up there right now, it's probably still not a good idea. I still need to ease gently into my previous life, and I really need to go back to work. 2022, though? I'm totally in. @Pete M Stop by my place on your way and we might be able to take a look at your A/C.

Landau Black is, as I've heard, a near perfect match to the factory black interior.

You should do it anyway! Don't use one of those crappy recharge kits.

Freedom.

I think that was probably the creator's inspiration.

What's the part number for the black mats?

If we're at the point where a truck with visible exterior rust in multiple areas really does bring $5k, I'm glad my Comanche buying days are over.

Nearly positive that I see rust on the bottom of the door. And the cab corner. And the lower bed. And 100% positive about the tailgate. Shame about it, because it does look pretty nice and almost completely unmolested. As we all should well know, beware of things not pictured. If a picture doesn't show a feature explicitly, imagine the worst thing you could see there and amplify it by 1000.

My point of view: The factory gauge is only trustworthy if your electrical connections are in good shape and if the sensor is a genuine Mopar product. If both of those are true, and maybe you've double checked it against an infrared thermometer, I would consider it a valid source of information. If you haven't changed the coolant in the last couple of years or so, do it. If the coolant is dirty, keep flushing it until it's clean. Regular coolant flushes prevent so many problems. The A/C puts a considerable extra heat load on the system. Your truck is also an automatic, which puts even more heat load on the system. Climbing a hill when it's hot outside, in an automatic truck, with the A/C on is literally the worst case scenario for the cooling system. If your gauge is telling the truth, I don't think you have any huge problem going on - especially if you have the puny stock radiator still. If you want to bring the temps down, look into a good coolant flush, or maybe one of the larger radiators on the market. I have the CSF 3-row, but there are plenty of options. I personally like my factory gauge to cover up the "2" in "210" once warmed up and stay there. That means the thermostat is regulating the temperature at 195, and the cooling system has excess capacity to remove heat in case it's needed. That doesn't necessarily mean any temperature over 195 is bad for the engine, but if the thermostat is no longer in control, you are in danger of running warm if you run the engine hard or are sitting in traffic on a hot day. Here's my cooling system "recipe" that I think could handle just about anything that most people could throw at it: - Standard '91 open cooling system - CSF 2671 3-row radiator - 97+ auxiliary fan (simple connector swap required for fan to plug into truck - will also improve A/C performance at low speed) - Hayden 678 transmission cooler - Stock replacement fan clutch - 50/50 bulk green coolant and distilled water. I don't use any additives.

I took sewing in middle school and I'm a lot younger than most of you. I remember nothing. My parents have a neat, very old, very heavy sewing machine that folds into a table.

Those are very similar to the dealership option all-weather mats, but better. The official ones end just to the left of where the clutch pedal would be.

The proper on-vehicle adjustment procedure is a 12-step process that involves removing the pitman arm and using an inch-pound torque wrench to verify over-center drag and worm-shaft preload. "snug" is not a measurement. "just tight" is not a measurement either. 4-18 inch pounds is a measurement, which just so happens to be the acceptable over center drag of the box. Adjusting by feel may ruin the box at best, and cause it to seize up while driving at worst. You really, really need the FSM to do this right. Anyone who says otherwise is a hack. If you cannot locate it on your own, I can provide the proper procedure for you.

If it's so great, why did he only drive it 10 miles? Pass. I bet it still has that same janky, always-threatening-to-fall-apart rattletrap feel every other one of those F-bodies has. Would be very interested in seeing what it would get in an auction format. Seems to me like he just threw a bunch of expensive parts at it.

Those door panels (if original) confirm that the truck was originally a "radio delete" 100% of the time. Rear speakers were optional and were usually accompanied by an (expensive) cassette deck. There were never factory dash speakers on the Comanche, but the grilles on either side of the lower dash are the locations where tweeters would be mounted on a Cherokee, if it had the optional Jensen sound system from the factory. If you want rear speakers, the brackets show up from time to time and they accept 4x6 speakers as has been said.

The spec for '91 is 38 oz of R-12. The evaporator and condenser will almost certainly lower the capacity by some margin. I'd be guessing if I gave a number, but you've made significant enough changes that the factory specs really aren't relevant anymore. 96 XJs used exactly the same evaporator and condenser as 91s and used 2 lbs of R-134a. 97+ XJs with parallel flow everything used 20 oz of R-134a. Just to give you an idea. But 97+ systems are orifice tube systems instead of expansion valve systems, so it's really not apples to apples.

The sources I read say the factory fill was 36 oz of R-12, so you're well below a full converted charge. If I were doing the work, I'd start at 28 ounces and go from there. You might try adding about a half a can and seeing what that gets you. Just watch the pressures. My chart for factory charge has been reliable every time I've looked, but I can't say for 100% sure because I don't have the '88 FSM.

Might be able to read something with an MT2500 and the right cartridge. The data won't be anything exciting.

What year and engine?

I used a junkyard pair of these to replace some blown out tweeters in the bookshelf speakers I use for lab testing. You know, they don't sound half bad. They are 8 ohm, keep that in mind. Also, Morel component tweeters fit in these brackets perfectly.

If you want good high frequency (and I mean good, not just "good... for a car stereo") in an MJ without cutting or fabbing you're gonna have a bad time. The most factory-esque thing I can think of is to cut some "vents" in the rear B-pillar trim at roughly ear level and mount the tweeters behind that. The sail panels (where the mirror joysticks would be) is a common place used in both aftermarket and factory installs, but fabbing up non-hideous tweeter mounts to go there is beyond my skill, and probably most people's level of care. And of course we're trying to do this in an inherently noisy platform with relatively little separating the outside from the inside. I have gone far beyond what most people are willing to do to make my truck quiet and I am still not completely happy. But I'm never happy with anything. And of course the factory head unit just makes all of this a little more difficult by not incorporating any sort of configuration features. That would have to be done in an outboard DSP hidden somewhere else. If you bother to look into it, car audio is the mother of all rabbit holes. I would also throw my ditto in the pile that sticking coaxial speakers behind the seat in the factory location will probably take away more from the system than it adds. That was my experience, but everyone's ears are different.

I've shot a couple of .40s, including a Hi-Point. Snappy, but manageable. I'd only consider 10mm in something big and heavy like a 1911. Maybe one of the all metal Smith and Wessons, those are cool too. If I end up buying a 10 it would be as a range toy and maaaaybe an occasional carry piece if I ever was camping or something in an area with dangerous wildlife. Well, I'm hoping for it to be so boring on that front that there ends up being no need for the health reports. Unless you want me to document how well I'm doing on losing all the weight I gained over the last year

The slide reads: Government Model (meaning a 5" barrel and full length grip), then Colt, then Automatic, Caliber .45. It's a Combat Elite model and has that marking on the other side. The markings on this gun are very restrained and sometimes hard to get a good picture of, which is a feature in my book. I really, really thought about a Delta Elite which would've basically been the 10mm version of this gun for a bigger bang, but decided to be an adult... for now. I also handled the FN 509, which felt really good in my hands. It's excellent. About a 5-6lb break, adjustable overtravel, and an extremely short reset, as you'd expect of a 1911. Funny thing is, I wasn't really a 1911 guy until I picked that particular example up in my local gun shop. But upon further inspection, I think I know why I liked it - the grip angle, sights, control placement, and even (single action) trigger pull are all similar to my CZ P-07, which I shoot well. Wouldn't mind if this stayed a firearms related thread rather than a "what's got Minuit down today" related thread, honestly.