Minuit

Damn, I didn't know me barging in with my HO would cause such a $#!&storm :oops:

You have an HO, get rid of it. :yes: http://comancheclub.com/topic/41929-installing-a-1996-throttle-body-mounted-map-sensor/ On the list. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

Rule 1 of troubleshooting sudden drivability issues: it's the MAP sensor line. I've seen it cause all sorts of problems, and in fact the only time I've ever seen the CEL on in my '91 was when it was driven with that line just barely loose for about 2 hours.

That's a great looking truck.

In this part of the country you could buy a self propelled rust free left bedside for $1400. Shame about all the other crap like a cab and a frame that would be tacked onto it too.

Yeah, the bellhousings are different and you'll need a few other parts. I think at least the front bearing retainer is different. But it can be done.

Yup. Whole thing would be vinyl. Having cloth seating areas was an option, believe it or not. The cloth bench for this year would've been called "Jamaica Fabric". The previous years would've been "Canyon Fabric"

Thanks for the window sticker pic. Looks like my truck was around $12k sticker price. Metallic paint and "Jamaica fabric" interior would've added a little to the price where the short wheelbase would've taken away some. Get yourself an '86 Comanche brochure. It'll have option listings, but sadly not their prices. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Jeep-Comanche-pickup-new-vehicle-brochure-/350132710214?hash=item5185892b46:m:mT81Xr2jbBNN6PmLkdy4Ogw

This is how I do it in the 89. If you go straight to reverse there's about a 50/50 chance of it grinding. Going to first first makes it slide in like it's supposed to. It was my understanding that this is normal for the AX15, but the other stuff he's describing (very hard to put it in gear when idling in neutral) definitely isn't. Sounds to me like a clutch issue still.

If you're up for a little project, find some 2 door XJ or MJ seats and swap the upholstery, foam, and bolsters from your comfy Laredo ones on to the frames. That way, you'll get the comfort of the Laredo seats and the flip forward ability. It's not too hard at all, just takes some patience. You don't want an MJ bench seat. I had an MJ bench seat. My tailbone still hasn't forgiven me. While you're at it, grab another passenger side bottom cushion and put it on the driver side. To say the MJ bench "sits three" is a funny joke with no basis in reality. I sat in this very truck (when it still had a bench seat) as a kid and the middle still wasn't comfortable. These seats started life as the basic bucket seats with the nasty vinyl covers. Very old picture, I've since swapped on a new driver side cover with no tear in the bolster.

Was your Mopar chain tight? I've had 2 Cloyes sets be sloppy out of the box, and before I drop $100 on a new Mopar silent set I want to be sure that won't happen (and be sure it isn't just an aftermarket part in a mopar box). The Cloyes chain I have now is only a little bit tighter than the original and announces its presence loudly. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk Here is a pic of mine, don't recall any slop. Where did you buy your Cloyes? I only get my hard parts from Summit or Jeggs or Mopar. You might find this interesting- http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/just-destroyed-the-crank-sprocket-on-a-brand-new-cloyes-timing-set-for-sbc.736749/ And I just went to Cloyes site, still made in the USA. One from a local parts store, one from RockAuto. The parts store one was a little less sloppy, but both were still almost as loose as the 160k at the time factory set. Easily 1/2" or more of deflection in all three of them. Looking back on it I never should have installed the one I did, but I needed it running. I won't buy another new production Cloyes part again - if the Mopar ones are just the Cloyes part store sets in a different box I'll hold out for NOS.

Here's mine. Sadly I think it was lost in a move, but I scanned it and clarified the faded ink on some of the spots. I have a full size PSD of it somewhere.

Was your Mopar chain tight? I've had 2 Cloyes sets be sloppy out of the box, and before I drop $100 on a new Mopar silent set I want to be sure that won't happen (and be sure it isn't just an aftermarket part in a mopar box). The Cloyes chain I have now is only a little bit tighter than the original and announces its presence loudly. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

Would it be possible for you to scan this?

Someone refresh my memory. Can you use the 94+ "silent chain" style timing chain and sprockets on a 91 4.0 engine? The old "bicycle chain" is NLA from Chrysler, and I've heard the later sets are an upgrade. The new style chain and sprockets are still available, and somewhat reasonably priced.

Come to think of it, I had 2 Cloyes 4.0 timing sets in a row be sloppier than the 160k mile factory set! I seriously believe that for many parts, you're better off going to the junkyard and pulling the original parts off of 200k+ mile junkers than you are getting a new one.

Compared to the AW4, the 42RE is made out of tissue paper. They tend to die very often. Don't bother.

I've ordered a few things from MoparPartsOverstock since I refuse to give my local Chrysler dealer any of my money. Takes a while to get stuff, but their service has been good. Anything I possibly can get Mopar still, I will. Sadly, almost everything is NLA these days. I'm known to buy stuff I don't need (or don't know I'm going to need yet) at the junkyard. It's saved me a few times. If you can afford to (and have the space to - I have at least 3 boxes full of spare parts in the attic) it's nice to build up a small collection of spares for later on. Worst case, you can sell some stuff. MJ parts are worth money, and in the future they'll be worth more money.

I agree completely. I've been extremely frustrated with aftermarket parts quality recently. Much easier to list the aftermarket parts I haven't had a bad experience with. Just off the top of my head, here's a summary of my luck with aftermarket parts: Hella H4 headlight housings: A+, was very impressed. Far superior light pattern to sealed beams. I've used some Mevotech parts before, and so far I don't have any complaints. Don't remember them being especially good or bad. Alpine audio amplifier: Works great, no complaints, does exactly what it's supposed to. CSF 3-row radiator: No complaints so far. Likewise for the Hayden trans cooler in front of it. I'm starting to feel a "warped rotor" type of pulsation under hard braking. Raybestos part, replaced about 3 years ago. Pull to left under braking due to sticky right front caliper. Raybestos part, replaced at the same time as rotors. Should've had the OEM rotors turned and just put new pads and bearings on. Omix-ada rear glass run weatherstripping. Cut too short at factory, left a gap between the glass channel and the vent window, causing wind noise. Filled the gap with a piece of the old seal. Very frustrating, since those things weren't cheap. Dorman, oh boy, Dorman. Window regulator on a friend's car failed 3 months after replacement. 4.0L oil pan bolt holes did not line up with the engine block, and had cheesy construction overall. Oil pan replaced with junkyard part. eBay crank position sensor lasted literally 3 days before going into thermal failure. Thrown in trash and replaced with junkyard part, then replaced with Mopar part. Wells gauge temp sender. Temp gauge says 245*F, MT2500 and laser thermometer say 200*F. Sender replaced with 27 year old used Mopar sender which reads correctly. Wells piece of $#!& put on '89 with stuck open thermostat. Are tires an aftermarket part? Cooper Discoverer A/T3 tires (first set of new tires I ever bought) went out of round causing extreme vibration at about 5,000 miles, although I suspect they weren't ever round as there was some vibration even when new. Tread worn enough to not be covered under warranty by the time I realized that the tires weren't round. Replaced with expensive but round and whisper quiet Michelins. I watch NOS part listings like a hawk, and have written down part numbers for things I'm interested in. Make sure to include the common misspellings. The effort you spend digging will be worth it. If you can't tell, I don't buy many aftermarket parts any more.

I think I might know a way to get aux input and maybe RCA jacks on this (the volume knob contacts are very conveniently located). Need to get a female Jeep/Eagle plug adapter to plug it into a truck, but I hooked it up to some speakers and a tool battery and it works very well. Sounds pretty good too. Fun fact: the plugs used on this radio are the exact same plugs as used on the worthless IR keyless entry system, so I butchered a couple of those connectors to make the "truck" end of the radio harness.

Yes, cable driven with long shaft gear.

The OP has two problems, almost certainly separate. No spark, and it won't turn over. I agree that the NSS won't cause his no spark problem, but it will cause a no crank condition, and that's what I was suggesting he clean the NSS for - so he can at least turn the engine over without jumping the starter every time.

It won't keep it from running. Keeping the engine from starting except in park or neutral is what it's there for. My truck would intermittently not want to start in park. Turn the key to start, and nothing happened... cleaning the NSS has fixed it for 4 years now.

I haven't taken it completely off yet. I've heard that people usually end up breaking them in the process so I'm hesitant to do it. I'm confident in myself but I'm just trying to weigh my options. I'm guessing you are saying it's most likely the NSS though? A dirty NSS would both stop the starter relay from getting power and cause the reverse lights to not work, so it's what I would point to first. It's a very common problem and it's one of those "needs to be done at least once in the life of the vehicle" things. I've never broken one, but I live in the southeast. I'd just try to be as gentle as possible, but I'm sure you know that anyway. Just curious: Does it turn over in neutral? If it starts in neutral but not park that's a definite NSS problem.

Have you taken the NSS off the transmission and cleaned it? It doesn't usually fail outright, it just gets gunked up inside. I'd try that first. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm