shelbyluvv

Got one on the way. Thanks again to the amazing Adam!

That's not them Don. it is a hard, oval rubber plug.

The weird part is I have torn apart a bunch of X/MJs and never knew that the standard shift had a plug in that hole. I learned something new today.

Passenger side Adam beside the HVAC line hole.

Makes sense. Thanks Jeff!

On the left side of the trans tunnel (looking at the pic) there is an oval hole. I have no idea what went through there and I still have a open hole there. This allows a good amount of water to come in the cab. Where can I find a plug to fit that hole?

I think you are missing the dryer and the binary switch for the AC. That first plug looks like the one for the binary switch. The second plug is the temp sender for the fan. The other wiring is there some where and should go to a relay down to the motor of the electric fan.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/competitions-events/2035514-w-e-rock-events-dirt-riot-race-moab-ends-tragedy.html

That is a junk yard part. Almost every XJ will have them behind the bumper. Probably $5 at a pick your part. Tow hooks were an option on these trucks. Yours are probably not missing, they were just not ordered. Be careful with knock off tow hooks. The OEM hooks have an extra brace that most aftermarket offerings don't include.

That's the radiator of the Pathfinder showing through the missing bumper.

A XJ jack is almost identical to the stocker

In a lot of the crappy places I was at when younger you couldn't afford to be a beer snob. There were only two beers, hot and cold. So I'm not particular anymore. If I had to pick a favorite it would be Tiger Beer, brewed in Singapore. Anyone ever try it? Tiger or Singha are my two favorite beers! Every time I got to the Thai restaurant I end up getting snookered off Singha. Nothing pairs better with Thai food!

There are two D35s out of XJs and a 8.25 laying there. If you check the add again he updated the picture of the axles. You can see the XJ shock mounts on the rear D35s. If you look real close at the 8.25 you will see where the paint was ground off to weld on the spring perches. I'm not sure what the ratio is on it as 3.38 wasn't a offered ratio.

Congrats Rich!

Post pics of the front suspension and steering. That's the only way we can see if it's done correctly.

As long as the height sensor has been removed and the line is plugged that is the correct method. If not After bleeding the brakes the normal way the rear brake by-pass line must also be bled. Open a front caliper bleed fitting and depress the brake pedal to the floor. This will shuttle the by-pass differential valve and allow fluid to flow through the by-pass line. The brake warning light on the instrument panel will illuminate when the ignition key is in the ON position. This signals the shuttling of the valve. Re-Bleed the rear brake cylinders with the front caliper bleed fitting open. After re-bleeding the rear brake cylinders the entire system must be bled again. Bleed the brake calipers and cylinders in the following sequence: 1st -- Right rear 2nd -- Left rear 3rd -- Right front 4th -- Left front

Yes they will function the same. Your brake system is a sealed system so it won't change much. Make sure whoever does them knows about the MJ specific bleeding sequence. This only matters if you still have the load sensor out back.

Yes I do. The ac didn't have refrigerant though. The lines come right off. Do you have a 5" lift and 31" tires?

Yes I have. I cracked the header panel from leaning on it. For the 10 minutes it takes to save me from the possibility of cracking a header panel or leaning over it, I'll just take it off. Have you tried with one off?

We'll agree to disagree on this one.

I have a 28MM also and it has really transformed the ride and handling of my truck. I will only use them on the front from now on.

OBD-II conversion

Mine beeps when I leave the lights on

Weld a nut to the bolt and it will come right out.

It will "work" fine but it is a hell of a lot easier to work on the front of the engine without it in the way. I always pull both. It takes maybe 10 minutes to yank the header panel off. Then you don't have to raise the engine an extra 3 feet to clear it. You also run into hood clearance issues when you leave the header panel on. I just changed the engine in my MJ twice last week and it saved me a ton of time and aggravation removing the header panel.