johnj92131

Jim, I am guessing this had something to do with all the hail damage you suffered a few weeks ago. Guess you will also be scrapping some of your XJ herd also. With all the broken glass you suffered, I am sure I don't blame you. In another year, most of them would just be rusted memories.

Sold a good pair on Ebay for $90.50

Jeep Driver, The Draw Tite hitch has 3 bolts on each side and no gussets. It looks very much like the Uhaul hitch in krustyballer16's picture from what I can see. The Reese hitch in your picture is a Class V hitch rated for 14000 lbs and 1000 to 1200 lbs tongue weight. The Comanche is factory rated to tow only 3500 lbs when "properly equipped" WITHOUT an equalizer hitch. With the equalizing hitch it is max tow rating when "properly equipped" is 5000 lbs. And, no short wheel base truck was ever "properly equipped" by the factory. Only long wheel base trucks could be "properly equipped" from the factory. (Yes, my truck is/was "properly equipped" from the factory). Frankly, I suspect you are over thinking this, given that most of our trucks can not be properly equipped and nobody has claimed anything about the DIY hitch performance.

To avoid you getting stuck with unused and unpaid for inventory here is what I suggest you do: 1) Ask for the money up front. FULL price. Once you get XXX number of orders, make your parts. 2) Make a paper tracing of your part, mail it out to everyone who orders. So they can check for them selves that it fits or doesn't fit. You don't need that monkey on your back. 3) Do not try to make custom changes on your parts. Let your customer make his own custom changes. You don't need that monkey either! 4) Ship completed parts when you have built/sold XXX number. 5) Start a thread in the for sale section. List who has paid and what XXX number of orders are needed to go forward. 6) Keep the for sale post up to date every week or so. Edit the first post as you progress. Really hope you can bring this product to market. I don't need it, BUT will buy one when you post the price and where to send the money.

Outlaw star: You want to check your math for 2.9L. If a .060 over bore and a 3.25 stroke equals 158 cu. in. then an .080 overbore to 3.96 equals 160 cu. in. with 3.25 stroke. Now, with a 3.625 stroke and a .080 you get 178 cu. in. or 2.92L Good find on that SD4 crank. Does it just drop in? Now that SD4 engine could be interesting at 3.3 litres and with the 4 valve head.

What are you doing to the crank to stroke it to 2.9 l?? That is a big increase in displacement.

I think you mean to say "drill the brackets you have to match the bumper" or something like that? Personally, I would buy brackets that fit with out the need to drill more holes.

Don't doubt the power, but the market has got to be very small. Even to get a 4.0 stroker up to 300 hp is going to cost very close to $10K, just for the engine.

Just a short note about history as we celebrate Memorial Day this year. This June 15 marks 800 years since the Magna Carta was signed by King John on an island in the Thames river called Runnymede. The Great Charter was the first time a King agreed to limits on his authority. It is from the Magna Carta that our modern concept of freedom and law starts.

P.M. me with your email address. I have a second hitch I purchased as a spare and for a different project. I will send you some pictures. It is a Drawtite # 75021

HEY - it is Craigslist. Nobody said anything about sanity.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5014960790.html

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5014679467.html

Posted this in the classified section. But thought it migh be more interesting in the Pub. More than a few intersting pictures anyway. http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/5014426239.html

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/5014426239.html

So many reasons!! But he has the 3.4 is the very best reason. You should use the search feature and you will find some of them. Like over heating, like nose heavy, like expensive kits, and there are lots of just of just plain hacked conversions out there.

Ohio plates??? Doesn't that mean RUST? Or does 68900 miles say it has been in the garage most of it's life?? Needs to show some underside pictures. BUT it does look nice! I am just not in the market. Looks like the tail pipe has been relocated. Arm rest base has chrome trim, missing upper trim (or was that optional). Was the under bumper spoiler painted OEM?? Just nit picking. Still looks very nice. With the right documentation, this would go for more on Ebay.

To the O.P. I don't know where you live (got the island part), but you really should shop around. $400 plus is more than twice as much a reasonable reasonable price in San Diego.

Different seats. The stock back on the bucket seats does not hold a firm position. There is a lot of room for motion when the seat back is "locked" in the sitting position. Grab the back of the seat, push it gently forward and you will see the motion. Replace the stock XJ seats with Grand Cherokee seats. Put XJ 95+ seat back adjusters on the Grand Cherokee seats. The seat back will now adjust and hold what ever back position you put it in much better. Bonus, you can move the seat further back before hitting the rear of the cab. Translates to more room for our fat gut.

Buckwheat, Read up on all the procedures. Then go to a pick and pull yard with any Cherokee. Practice on that Cherokee. Make what ever mistakes you need to learn from on that Cherokee. Then find another Cherokee to do it all over again. By the second time you will have it down. Then start on your own truck. If you get stuck, go back to the Pick and Pull for more practice. Take lots of your own pictures, find the same year Cherokee as your Truck and use that one to pull the complete wire harnesses. Label all the ends you take off. Do this and you will have something that looks just exactly like what the factory installation is. I did a duplicate of a factory air installation on my 1969 Corvair back in 1970 or 71. A whole lot harder then than it is now.

87Warrior, as long as you are experimenting - why not try replacing the existing am/fm radio antenna with the 2 meter band antenna? May not be too far off to use it for the am/fm radio anyway. Life is full of compromises, big and small - right?

Take a look at Grand Cherokee seats. With some flat stock, a grinder, and some bolts, you can fit them. They seem to be the same height as the stock MJ buckets in my 1991. Maybe just a touch lower. I like them in my truck. No more sore back.

You wrote it correctly when you said "MT package". It is a whole package, not just a set of springs and a Dana 44. It is a long wheelbase only package that requires a number of factory HD components/coolers. Not to mention the bigger brakes of the Dana 44 and the automatic transmission. IF you had a factory trailer hitch on the back, the suggestion of a trailer to haul dirt is an excellent one. Given what you have, why not just make two trips instead of one?

Does anyone have part numbers for air shocks for the stock Comanche rear end? My truck is on loan for a couple of weeks, so I can not check the very old, non working air shocks on the truck. There are some decent shock absorber rebates available for the month of April and wanted to order before the end of the month.

If the 59 really did not have an engine/transmission, that would explain the door flying off like that. And why the roof folded like that. The power train would have done a whole lot to hold 05 car a bit farther back from the old roof/passenger area.