johnj92131

Truck had 3/4 tank of gas when the pump died. But I tend to run the tank down to just 2 to 5 gallons between fills. So maybe I contributed to the failure. Have to say I was very surprised about the dead pump. Don, Yes it was the Amazon Deal pump. It looked just like new, packaging was damaged. So I did not think it was a second because of pump function. I was told the pump may not have been made in Germany, but made in Brazil, even with the Bosch name. It is just getting harder and harder to find good quality replacement parts. Problem is that we all want a Walmart price and with that Walmart price comes Walmart crap quality. My long time shop was telling me even wheel bearings from most suppliers now are CRAP/junk/low quality now.

Tex06, Lucky you with your dad the a/c man! Please do a big write up with plenty of pictures. I will need to install a/c on the diesel TDI Comanche when it is done.

Goatman, did you get hold of Comanche SS? He still has his old Street Comanche parts and they are in Del Mar near San Diego.

On the last Friday of January this year, I had my Amazon purchased Bosch electric fuel pump installed in the Comanche. On Thursday, the truck died and I had it towed to the shop. First thought was a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor, but turned out to be low fuel pump pressure. Started at 35 psi,, then quickly dropped to 5 psi. Truck died, wait a few minutes and the truck starts with 35 psi fuel pressure and drops off to 5 psi again. So the shop replaced the fuel pump and the truck is running fine again. Replacement pump came from NAPA this time. Just real surprised to see the Bosch pump only last 4 and a half months.

Here is the thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/53144-street-comanche-19/?hl=street+comanche His user name is goatman and he is in Bakersfield, Ca. Just a couple hundred miles from you dad's house in Del Mar? You may want to drop him a line.

Did you ever sell all your Street Comanche stuff? Someone here was looking for some parts recently (like in the last month). John Jackson

My advice is to stick with the factory fans and the stock cooling set up. When it is properly running, the stock cooling system is great. I went thru this issue last summer with a couple of problems. 1) I did not have the cooling system properly topped off. The heater was empty. But who uses the heater in Southern California?? 2) Had a leak in the water pump, slow at first, got bigger with time. 3) Replaced the radiator cap with a new one, After that the system held pressure.

?? - i didnt say interior trim, I asked what was considered the highest trim level: Laredo or Elim. A models trim level is its package deal - wheels to motor, to power antenna... not "just" interior... Yes, I did not read your first post correctly and answered what I "assumed" it said. We know about "ASSUME", right?

Times 2 on this. Factory Service Manuals are money well spent. Personally have the original FSM for each car I own, Including my Corvair from the 1960s

Picture is from "Monster's Ball" http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0285742/

"Highest Level of interior Trim?" Kind of a poor description of what ever you mean. What is "high"? Leather seats? never offered. Heated seats? never offered? Cloth seats vs. vinyl seat? Which one is higher?? Power windows/door locks are required for a "high" trim level, right? Fake wood dash trim? never offered on the Comanche. Power reclining seats? Get a Cherokee Limited interior. Mostly, remember the Comanche is/was a truck. Me? I want to pimp mine up (but not so much chrome as some). I am starting to like the 97+ conversion. Thinking about power Grand Cherokee Seats. Have Grand Cherokee seats now. Some of that fake wood interior is looking interesting also.

Yes, I have seen one or two of them on a Comanche. Forget the name on them. It has been a couple of years....

Next time I do the trailer harness thing, I will get a full 7 wire set up with a brake controller. I have an adapter plug that goes from 7 wire to 4 wire in the glove box. But it does me no good because I only have a 4 wire connector on the Comanche. So my advice is to do a 7 wire and a 4 wire connection at the same time. Yes a bit more expensive. But I like the idea of electric brakes on anything I tow. Last summer, I towed a 1986 Comanche on a U haul dolly from Victoria, B.C to Northern Michangan with my 1991 Comanche. About 2400 miles from sea level to over 8000 feet of the Rocky Mountains. After that, you appreciate good brakes.

Looks like the right part number and the dimensions are very close to what I found on Amazon: Perfect Fit Group J670105 - Comanche Fuel Tank, Steel, Silver, 18 Gal./ 68 Liters, 29-3/ 4 X 17-1/ 4 X 13-5/ 8 In., W/O Seals I have to wonder just how close to the drive shaft it is? Did you measure it? I will measure mine later today and post the result.

Do you have the part number of the tank and where you got it from? That would help. Don't suppose you still have the original rusted out tank?

You will be fine with an F150 and a Uhaul dolly. I used my 91 Comanche and a Uhaul dolly to tow my 86 diesel Comanche over 2000 miles from Victoria, B.C. to northern Michigan last August. That was my second coast to coast round trip with the Comanche that year. So assuming your F150 is in good shape, I would not worry about using it to tow a Comanche 400 miles with a Uhaul dolly or with a car trailer. But if you are not comfortable towing the truck - pay a transport company and sleep better at night.

now that you mention headers, are the renix era exhausts optimal or is there some extra power to be had there? because the exhaust pipes in my MJ are rather rusty and they gonna fall apart some time soon and i was planning that when the time comes, put a larger pipe, shorter one that exists just behind the drivers side door, no point in going all the way back of the truck, or maybe a vertical exahust, serves no purpose but looks cool... Just remember that bigger is not always better. Especially when it comes to exhaust!

NO. Not what I was trying to say... I was trying to say that milling the head by .051 will get your to a 9.78 compression. Also, milling the head by a total of .100 will get you to 11.14 compression. Both with the standard head gasket in place. There is a thinner .043 head gasket that would add just a touch (like .2) more compression. so the head gasket alone can raise it to an hypotethical 9.78:1? interesting, anything above 9 is fine, after all, the crappy LPG i get in my country is like a 50/50 mix of propane and butane and that lowers the octane number a bit...

Suggest you go to the jeepstrokers web site and use their compression calculator to figure out how much you need to cut the head to get to 11: 1 compression. Stock 4.0 compression is 8.7 according to the calculator. The head gasket is .051 thick. Reduce the head gasket thickness to zero and you get 9.78 : 1 compression Then set the head gasket to -.049 and you get 11.14 to 1 compression. So, cut the head by .100, then replace all the pushrods with new shorter pushrods. That keeps your valve train the same. Will the stock head stand a .100 cut? I have no idea. Do you know if your existing head has been cut before?

I will bet you dollars to donuts...You are not near as good a welder as he is. And you are not likely to have anything near the metal bending equipment he has available. You should stick with Nates... Me? I will stick with known good quality welds and workmanship. I am very pleased with Krusty's work.

Well, it should be a better tow vehicle than the Comanche for a heavy load. Kind of the same reason I would consider a Toyota Tundra as a tow vehicle. Guess as long as the a/c works fine, black is not all that bad a color.

Might want to give it a little longer. I like the ones I got last time.

The Ebay purchased turbo arrived from the UK in excellent condition! Here it is mounted on the Stock AHU exhaust manifold. Note to A-man930: Is this turbo mount high enough for you? You can just see the adapter. Best part of this is that nothing had to be clocked or changed on the turbo. Turbo output points straight at the existing Jeep intercooler and the exhaust will be a straight shot to the muffler. A simple and very clean location. Here is a top view of the turbo: This shows the start of the motor mount: Test fitting the motor into the engine bay. Looks like lots of room. Take a close look at the a/c compressor. We have a small clearance issue. The current plan is to move the engine over towards the passenger side for more clearance. Whitbread is going to rotate the transmission mount 180 degrees and see how much extra room that give us. The next problem was the stock oil filter adapter. It is a known issue, so an oil filter adapter from an Audi has been ordered as a replacement. It should arrive middle of next week.

Hello Jim! Glad to hear from you. You have been missed here.

Right. The only second tank I am aware of is an 18 gallon tank on the right side. And that will not help you with a revised rear suspension. Please post the measurements you find.