johnj92131

Thanks Don. #25 is what I need. Never would have thought to look in the section for "Engine Mounting" for the transmission bracket. But I got nothing looking in the "Transmission" section. EDIT: Anybody have one for sale???

I am having a problem finding a part number and a diagram in the parts book for the the AX15 Torque arm bracket. I bolts on to the bottom of the AX15 transmission, then the transmission mount gets bolted on, and lastly the transmission cross member. I need this for the AX15 going in my TDI diesel 86 Comanche. Any pointers, help is appreciated. Think this is what I need - first image on this page: https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8&q=torque%20arm%20bracket%20cherokee%20xj&oq=torque%20arm%20bracket%20cherokee%20xj&aqs=chrome..69i57.18196j0j8

Found a couple of pictures Whitbread took in May, 2015 test fitting the GTC1549VZ turbo on an engine he had in his shop. This turbo went on my Passat in Sept. 2015. You will see some of the clearance problems with the stock rear motor mount. In the first picture, look closely to see the flat plate adapter from the turbo to the exhaust manifold. I will add a couple more older pictures as I find them.

No side by side pictures or where to buy it experience from me. BUT.... For bulky items, I have found it pays to look at Ebay vendors offering "free shipping". Rock Auto frequently offers very good prices, but shipping can be expensive. Example, ordered a new exhaust system recently. By picking different Ebay "free shipping" sellers, I saved about $90 on a complete Walker exhaust compared to the near $200 to buy and ship from Rock Auto.

Same question here. Although I want to say it's a common aftermarket "high torque" starter for sbc or something. Good question on the starter! Had to do a bit of research. Here is what I know right now: "Yes the kits all come with a starter. Its an aftermarket Mini High Torque unit which is very common. We machine the end housing to fit our adapter but it just bolts to the end of the starter and would swap to the replacement starter. Its a Hitachi style starter so pretty common. My experience now days is that parts stores don't stock much and have to order larger parts in. Maybe that's just a Canadian thing. " I need to find out which common engines the starter fits. Decided on the turbo. As A-man930 pointed out - the 31 year old Jeep will need attention ($$) and other parts. So it will be the GTC1549VZ turbo and an extra $1000 to spend on other needed attention items for the truck. Also, that turbo spools really great as it is from below 1500 rpm. Per Garrett, the newest generation is a 3-4% improvement. But the Ebay cost is more like 2.5 times for the newest GTD turbo. Did find a rebuilder in Germany advertising "rebuilt" GTD turbos for about 400 euros ($425), but was out of stock.

That was one of my thoughts , orsell the rusted Cherokee and use that money towards a drivetrain. I've had the Cherokee since 36k miles and kept up on the maintenance, so I've got some decisions to make .... So, tell me where you are going to get a power train you know that much about how it was maintained and all the issues in it's history? Then you have the "possibility" of a full interior swap also to the 97+. Yes lots of work and not everbody's cup of tea. In the end, how many dollars is the rusty 99 going to get you? If I were going to put a used engine in my truck, I would want one like your 99 with a full history all most as much as a new factory long block.

That Cherokee is a keeper! At the very least for a year or two. Use your 99 rust bucket for the power train.

Cody, Nothing wrong with Tesla stock IF you get out of it with a profit. But, I keep thinking of a wireless stock I bought at $7, then sold for a nice profit at $21. I watched it go up to $105, then I thought I could time it's price swings. In the end, I was wiped out - because I was a greedy PIG. Just remember the Kenny Rodgers song: "You got to know when to hold, know when to fold. Know when to walk away, Know when to run."

This same ad was posted about on April 13: http://comancheclub.com/topic/52890-a-couple-interesting-expensive-comanches-around-me/ I suspect we will see the ad several more times over the next couple of years. Maybe even higher prices if it doesn't sell at 18K. Bet they have a couple of ads up somewhere for a bridge or two. This so called street Comanche has been for sale a number of times before. Always with spelling errors and a shaky bunch of "facts". Price gets higher and higher - Kind of like Tesla stock.

Better looking trucks this time. And more money. Even a real OEM 2.1 turbodiesel, looks a bit tarted up. Thanks Bonkers!

Thought I posted this earlier. But I could not find it. Purchased the conversion kit from: http://gastodiesel.tdconversions.com/ They have a very good reputation on TDIClub. Comes complete with a new starter. They also sell a motor mount kit for the ALH and later TDI engines. Unfortunately not for the AHU (your 98 engine or my 99 engine).

Anita's mom's old house has a 16 x 12 shed on the property. The old tenants used it as a "garden room",, full in door irrigation system and lots of electric power. I have that just half full, including a couple of engines. Anita is trying to get my spare blocks and a couple more full engines stashed in that shed. But i won't help her move them. I am not falling for that. She wants to put a couple of electric ovens in the garage - ever since she discovered I added an extra 220 volt circuit to the garage. She got two new ovens out of the kitchen remodel and doesn't like the way the big, new gas oven bakes. She has been after garage space ever since.

For the last 10 days I have been turbocharger shopping in Europe (isn't the internet wonderful). Time to report some of what I have found. If you read post #21, you will know my "preferred" turbo for this build is the GTD1752VRK from a 190 hp 2015 BMW 2.0 diesel. It is loaded with the very latest in turbo technology. All this comes with a price in several parts. First, because they were first used in 2014/15 BMW's - not very many are in the used market. Hence the best I can find a used one for is $800. A new one is right at $1000. Second, being a BMW, things are done "differently". In this case, the turbo used V band clamps to connect to the exhaust manifold. Not a standard bolt on like most other car makers. So this means time and $$ to build a new custom adapter. Third, being the latest and greatest turbo, the turbo is controlled electronically rather than by vacuum, So again, more time and $$ for the tuner to figure out hot to program and modify it. On the other hand, my second choice turbo, the GTC1549VZ from 170/177 hp VW/Audi's, is looking like a real bargain. Two and a half years, they were the new hot thing and scarce in the used market. I paid over $800 for mine. Today, I can find 9 or 10 of them just on Ebay.uk for between $230 and $375. Just an increase in supply of used turbos now that they have been out a while. Whitbread used the GTC1549VZ on my Passat turbo upgrade, so he/we have no surprises or extra $$ to put it in the Comanche project. Same thing goes for the engine tune, I paid for the dyno testing and adjustments to the tune for the GTC turbo when we did the Passat. Whitbread say is up to me which turbo I want to use. But he asks me "How much do you want to pay for about 15 extra horsepower? So, Comanche fans. How much real $$ would you be willing to pay for the extra horsepower and latest/greatest turbo technology? Thanks for your thoughts.

Kittrell, What are those gauge faces from?

That is a new location for me to look at. Thank you.

Here are some pictures I took looking a putting the 87 tach into the H.O. cluster. This picture is the 87 tach sitting in a H.O. police cluster with the 120 mph speedometer. This is what I wanted the finished product to be. 87 cluster the tach came out of. Take a look how the tach bolts in and how the electrical connections are thru the blue cluster. The Low Fuel warning board is just below the tach location. Here is a similar view of the H.O. cluster. Police cluster on top, normal H.O cluster on the bottom. Notice the height difference between the 87 tach and the H.O. tach. Rear view of the two different tachs. I started working with a dremil on a spare H.O. cluster case trying to make room for the 87 tach. But the better half wanted her kitchen counter back, so the test went back into the plastic tote 8 months ago. Actually thought about making small jumper wires to connect the 87 tach on the H.O. plastic case. But had no idea if the 87 tach would really work with the H.O. input signals. Minuit, do you know if the 87 tach will electrically work with the H.O. inputs?

I inherited both my uncle's and my dad's collection of hardware. Dad had an old steamer trunk full of the nuts and bolts, all neatly organized. (My sister wanted the steamer trunk, but I got the nuts, bolts, screws, washers, very slightly used nails. All the good stuff). Added it to my own collection, moved it around to a bunch of different houses. Finally realized it was taking me more time to find what I needed each time I went to the collection than it took to go to a specialty hardware store and get just the right parts for the current project. So if I needed 4 specialty parts - I would buy a dozen of them. Hey, I will save me all that time in 5 or 10+ years when I need a spare, right? So now I just add stuff to the collection and never take anything out of it. Gauge clusters, you say? I will have to pull out a very large plastic tote box full of them to find how many Renix clusters I own. I went on a buying binge a couple years back for them. You actually own a Renix era truck that you could use your 6 gauge clusters in??? How strange...I don't own a Renix era truck - never did. But I do have a bunch of gauge clusters. Can we trade pictures? Maybe we can just swap stories about each of them. What do you say?

Please do tell, where exactly did you find the build sheet? Once I get my 86 diesel back from the shop, I want to search for the build sheet also. So your clue will be important for me. Thanks,

If you are asking can you use the 87 Tach (last picture) in a H.O cluster. The answer is NO. Tach electrical connections are in a different place and the rear p.c. boards are a different size - it does not fit in the same space. Low fuel circuit board is also in a different place causing fitting problem also. Back Side of the H.O. cluster is different from Renix cluster. Printed circuit plastic foil is different and will not interchange between H.O. and Renix that I can tell. I have pictures on my phone of most of these problems. Please let us know if I have failed to understand your question correctly. JJ

On my 91, the electric fan is supposed to run under 1 of 2 conditions: 1) When the a/c is turned on. 2) When engine temperature is over 210 (?, from memory). The wire to your temp sensor to the fan may just not be plugged in correctly. Or your temp sensor is bad. (Wouldn't that be a simple thing). Hot at idle indicates a bigger problem. Some thoughts, Bad Temperature Sensor? Air in system. Water pump runs in wrong direction, Pinched or collapsed coolant line. No coolant in heater. The factory service manual has a whole page of reasons for this issue. Take it back to where you got the work done! But BE NICE about it! The people at the shop are human too. Stuff happens, right?

Quote: "put new CPS,checked it today it,s putting out .05 volts when you crank over" Is that ".05" your real measurement or a typo error??

Which one? AMC Eagle/Sportabout? Justy? Toyota Tercel? I "think" you owned the Eagle.

That so called street Comanche has been for sale, close to forever. If it doesn't sell for $9,000 - just double the price and ask again. :brows: General view around here is that is is not real, original. And that is a very gentle assessment.

No paint job is ever better than the preparation work put into it. You see the results of poor preparation. So, since you don't want to spend $200 or more, Take a shot at cleaning, scrubbing, skuffing the heck out of 1 or 2 pieces you have. Get rid of as much of the old paint as possible. Then do it again! Clean the surface with a fast evaporating degreaser like alcohol. Prime lightly, etc. You know the drill. SMS has a good reputation! Don't they have a primer also for the trim? Use both, primer and finish. See what it looks like, then make a decision if you want to do the work on the rest of the plastic trim. Don't forget to post results for the rest of us to see! Good Luck.

Ran into an issue with the AX-15 input shaft. The pilot bearing area on the shaft is pitted rather deeply. Even after cleaning with emery cloth is still did not look too hot. Fortunately, Whitbread had an extra AX-15 input shaft left over from a previous customer who had to use a Toyota input shaft on his AX-15. To change the input shaft required several hours labor to tear the trans down. Once the trans was apart, Whitbread found water at the bottom of the case. I had the transmission stored in my back yard for 3 months last fall/winter under a cheap Harbor Freight tarp. So the water very likely came from the super heavy rain we got in November/December. Also found the speedometer gear had fallen inside the trans case in all its travels from Charlotte to San Diego and back to Michigan. Anyway the trans is back together and turns nicely now. Transmission on the bench: Back together: Finished engine with adapter plate, Jeep clutch and flywheel in place: Just about ready to start trial fitting the new power train into the Comanche.