86FUBAR

Well if u wernt so far away from me id look it over for ya at work, I'm in monterey :D

jeepco if u want to feel unsafe, run a long arm setup , i know i feel a little uneasy about mine sometimes because i only have 2 grade 8 bolts holding the arms to the frame and thats it. and also the drop brackets are temporary, most people ,like my self purchase those types of kits because they are cost effective and do the job well . i know when i got my 4in lift back in high school my willing to cut off major pieces of the frame for a long arm kit were not things i was into not to mention i couldn't afford it, (that and nobody offered that type of kit that i new of). I'm with CW on this all the way

nitrous !! its the biggest bang fer the buck :brows: or a cam thats the 2 biggest bang fer the bucK BUT NOT AS COOL AS N.O.S. MAAANNNNN :roll:

ditto Is the rear bumper air tight? OBA baby ya! Not sure how much that thing would hold though... not bad i like the front, looks realy good for a back yard build , i never liked the look of a brush guard but i realy like the look of yours (what is it off of ). the rear is a little short but owell and as far as OBA in the bumper id say it would be safe to 200 psi if the welds didnt leak wtch they probly will but thats easy to fix.

My first lift was a Trail Master 4in with teraflex controlarms fer the xj and it worked great on the manche . i beat the piss out of it and i never had a problem

iv been askin fer it fer 3 years and we finaly got our ALLDATA setup and and I'm very happy . hopefuly itl come in handy fer some yal as well. :jump:

thanx u guys il do that but i didnt think the guage was replaceable seperate but if so the better

my battery guage broke on me some time ago and i would like to fix it any ideas? it does nothing either runing or not and its an 86 2.8 and no dummy lights

if ya don't go warn get a mile marker , they are great winches and also reasonably priced

well not quite, mine came with a lil somthn extra :chillin:

I'm NOT THAT SMART , but i figured it out ,is that a good deal ? i know it is cheaper than mine caus i paid damn near 30 k for mine :brows:

This company makes some bada$$ glass stuf fer trucks , this is who i would go to if , i mean , when i do this. http://hannemannfiberglass.com/index.html

the 2.8s do suck but mine has taken a serious beating in the 8 years iv owned it and has always done me right (though seriously under powered), u probably wouldnt believe some of the stories but lets just say she runs a consistant 4500-5300 rpm every were we go and she keeps going , so :thwak:

ur lucky my baby is sleeping in the car port and didnt hear that jeepco

Ya but many of them were runing full float dana 70 with 7.17 gears .Ooo the possabilities :brows:

the 14 bolt is worth its weight in copper as fer the e brake cables il give u one of my kidneys for it :cheers: :brows:

Well i got the steering done today and it came out realy good. first thing i did is disasemble all the stock junk and toss it , then i stripped the brakes hubs and axel shafts out which u don't have to do but since i was replacing the shafts and installing some axel seals i did reaming the knuckels was easy but i shoulda taken them out and did it in the drill press wich i finaly did after ruining the stock pitmanarm wich was no biggie caus i had the zj arm already but now i have a little bump steer from the 1 in drop in the arm. also i had to cut the square end off the reamer because it wouldnt alow the reamer sufficent depth in the drill chuck and tryn to finger out how to secure the dern arm to the drill seemed a bit difficult but i found an easy solution bolt it, worked perfict now all i need to do is get my work to buy a drill press that aint belt driven ;) once i got all that taken care of i test fit it then shot it with some primer and paint . then i went and cleaned out the houseing / installed the axel seals and new to me axels out of a 98tj that a friend gave to me and then reasembled the hubs and brakes. as fer the disco housing i popped the C-clips off the shift fork shaft and installed a bolt with an O-ring in its place by this time the paint was dry and the steering was ready to be installed and here it is all said and done, adjusted ,tightened and test drove it drove great , tracked strait and every thing the only thing i didnt think of is when i limited the steering at the stops on the axel to keep the steering outa the springs the steering box aint got a limit on it so it still wants to keep going so short of sending the box out to get internal stops put in i don't know what to do other that be careful . anybody know the side affects of this issue?

:agree:

Its easy to do the ream n part but the drillin part is a little tuff. as fer stuf in the way u gota cut the sway bar mounts / steering stabelizer bracketry off and the worst part is u have to limit the steering by puting 1/4in spacers in the stops which is gona hurt a bit cause my manche is a LWB, but the way i see it is i will be saving money caus i won't be hiting my steering and breaking it and won't be puting as much stress on the front u-joints possibly breaking them . i will be finishing the install tomorow and posting it on my build thread.

I i just started the install of the JCR 1 ton OTK yesterday and though i havent driven it yet i would recomend it to every one . it didnt cost anything extra fer the otk ($299.95 shipped), i got the snapon reamer fer $23.00 and it has been the easyiest install/upgrade iv done to date. o and CW i would like those part #s if ya don't mind posting them again thanx.

any pics of the OTK tierod kit installed or the like would be nice

WOOHOO i got my JCR OTK 1 TON steering in the other day so pics and an install will follow this friday cus i took the day off work to put it in. i might even get the rear shocks installed but we shal see , and as fer the rubi front axel itl have to wait being as i spent 700$ on a new mountian bike and so thats it so far.

what u talkn bout u live in the DESERT :nuts: :brows: ;)

What vac lines u talkn about , if memory serves me right there shouldnt be any vac lines fer the 700r4. just fab ur self a TV cable bracket off the tbi, adjust it properly and if its an electricaly opperated over drive then run a manual switch in to the cab to activate the OD . if there are any vac lines any on the engine then cap or remove as necesary. 700r4 are easy to adapt on to everything because they aint computerized