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Everything posted by BLHTAZ
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I would personally be against having a bunch of other Jeep models cluttering up the site. While I know the site rules say that you don't have to own an MJ to be a member here, it is a "Comanche" site primarily. There are plenty of sites out there for the SJ, CJ, DJ, YJ, XJ, TJ, ZJ, WJ, WK, KJ, KK, MK, JK owners to post there stuff on. Start making it a multi-model site and we will surely loose the special thing that makes this place what it is. Just my opinion of course... :cheers:
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Pete...are you still unable to access the site??
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That appears to be windshield washer hose. Does your washer system work??
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I was thinking about it actually... :brows:
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Any chance of getting a picture or two of this line?
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I hesitate to go to that term...yet, but I am still thinking it a little more like he thinks he can do more than he can, especially considering he is less than 100% physically, but I can't completely rule it our either...
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:yes: You would think there should be, but it's just a learning curve. CAD = Central Axle Disconnect Don't be affraid to ask any time as you have done here :cheers:
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:rotf: Yeah...it's just a parking spot for one of his MJ's, but I had to get that shot when I saw it. I was just driving by and had to stop and pull over when I saw it.
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I had forgetton about this stuff, but if you go to a dealership and ask for a can of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner, it works wonders at cleaning the upper end of the engine and removing carbon. If you want to try this...once you have the cleaner, take the truck for a short drive to get it up to normal temp. Park it, shut it off, remove the intake tube from the top of the throttle body then start the truck and set the idle at about 1200 - 1500 RPM...I used a zip tie to hold it for me as this can take a few minutes. Once you have the idle set, spray the complete can of cleaner in to the throttle body. the engine will slow and may try to stall, but don't let it stall. You can hesitate on spraying or rev it up just a little, but you do not want high or fluctuating RPMs for this process. You may have excessive smoke come out the tail pipe so do it in a well ventilated area. Once the can of cleaner has been emptied, you should allow the engine to run for at least 5 more minutes at idle then replace the intake tube and take it for a 5-6 mile ride. :thumbsup:
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You get what you pay for... :cheers: They use some good springs (OME), but they are only 3" coils and them 3" spacers on top of that... :eek: :shake: You will thank yourself for spending a little more money on a better kit in the long run.
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I just tried it. Straight out of the bottle, I'm not real impressed, but I think it needs some Lime or Orange or something like that and it would be better. I think Orange sounds good with this for some reason. :brows: I'll get some and re-evaluate.
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block heater and also a rino liner question?
BLHTAZ replied to comanche13's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Yes...the liner was done about 7 months after the paint, so it was ASSumed that maybe it was still too new to stand up to the tape job. If you look at the invoice from Line-X, it very clearly states that paint damage is possible from the tape on any vehicle though regardless of the age of the paint. It's one of those risks you take and something that is "possible", but doesn't happen often. -
I have heard of this method too. The fork breaking is rare, but I have heard of a couple other people having that problem. The best thing to do is convert it to the one piece shaft and not fool with the band-aids :idea:
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Well...that took a little longer than I expected :yes: Welcome back... :cheers:
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I'm sure there are write-ups out there on it, but the easiest thing I have seen is to pull the CAD assembly off of the axle, remove the retaining clip, slide the shift fork over in to the locked position and then put the retaining clip back on and it will keep the assembly engaged all the time. I have also seen people take a stack of washers, remove the fork and shim it with the washers so it can't move.
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Yeah...classifieds are just a courtesy thing on this type of forum, not something intended to draw traffic. I don't see any problem with it the way it is. :cheers:
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Well...we gave away another one, but I have to say that their play has become more consistent and i delieve we still have a decent chance in the playoffs this year. I'm just not sure about Big Ben...he is just not playing up to the standard the he set for himself in previous years... :dunno:
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They have a little wire retainer around them that can be a bit of a pain sometimes. It is easier if you have a tiny screw driver or better yet, one of those curved sharp picks like is used for removing o-rings etc... You will not get shocked when remiving them with the truck running, but you will want to get the retainers off first then start it up so it will be easy to unplug and then plug them right back in. I got tired of the retainers and just left them off of mine the last time I did it. OH...BTW... there is never a dumb question around here. Don't be affraid to ask as it's better than learning the hard way :yes:
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already got that covered, 1973 CJ with a 304/3speed pilot bearing is supposed to do the trick :thumbsup:, I will be doing the swap at a friends transmission shop so if that doesn`t fit I`ll have options :D Excellent... :D Be sure to get pics to share with us in the "Project" forum. :thumbsup:
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block heater and also a rino liner question?
BLHTAZ replied to comanche13's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I would advise taking the block heater back and getting the one from the dealer. I had Line-X done in mine. Had a bit of a problem with it peeling paint off on the outside of the bed when they removed the tape, but the liner is great. It was about $400... -
Not worth the money.Shim the CAD together and leave it...it will not hurt anything. Think about it...the newer Jeeps with the same D30 now have one piece shafts so how could it hurt. :thumbsup: The only time that anything "feels" funny is if you have a locker in the front, but it still doesn' hurt it, just make a little difference in the feel of the steering.
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Lower Drop Link Mount Bent
BLHTAZ replied to hogelectra's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
KI believe he is talking about what we call a sway bar end link (where a lot of us put disconnects ;) ). He is saying that the mount on the axle for the lower end of the link is bent. I have never had to deal with that, so I can't help unfortunately, but maybe I helped make it clearer to understand and soemone else has done this. -
Yeah...just shim it over and leave it. It won't hurt anything obviously as the newer Jeeps use a one piece shaft anyway now :thumbsup:
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Well, it's not a semi trailer, but I got this shot the day I picked up the new bed for JT's truck. They guy that sold him the bed owns this... :yes:
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With the new forum update, mass PM's can now be done, but you have to take the time to create a "Friends" list to be able to do it from what I can tell.
