BLHTAZ

X2 Mine runs at about 35 - 40 when hot at 2000 RPM. When Cold it's at 50+/- using 10w30 AMSOIL. I am going to change it to a little heavier oil soon to see if I can get it to run just a bit higher. Get a mechanical guage on it and verify that ASAP though...

My thought too. There is just nothing on that side of the engine that could produce a significant leak other than that, the head gasket or a hole in the block.

Very cool of you to join us Jon... :cheers: Great truck :thumbsup: We have another member with the user name 'Worlds Fastest Comanche' . Ya'll should talk... :D

Unfortunately...I didn't get it. They just called me a little while ago to let me know that I was not the chosen one :rant: :dunno: There are still a couple dealerships close by that i have not visited yet and I am checking the local AutoZones & Advance/Discount stores too. I did get an interview for a commercial parts sales position at an Advance today so we'll see. Just kinda bummed right now as I really thought I was going to get that one at the big dealership... :( I know I haven't responded to every particular comment in this thread, but please know I have read them and greatly appreciate all of the kind words & support.

:cheers: Welcome back. Happy to see that all has ended well for you.

The how to on that is here... viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11077 :cheers:

Just curious how you get that? 113 x 58 / 2200 = 2.97" of allowed lift including tires according to MA law. Not being a smart @$$...just don't want someone to have trouble because of what is stated here :cheers: :D

I just posted a link to a .PDF of the electrical manual in the DIY forum today...go check it out ;) When mine wouldn't work at all, the resistor was the culprit. When I tried to take it out...it fell out in pieces as the inside had rusted completely apart. I seem to have missed that part about direct wiring it so yes, if you have direct wired the motor and you get nothing then it's time for a motor...maybe motor & resistor as the motor failure has been known to cause the resistor to go bad too.

Non-disconnect...1995 or later as they have the stronger u-joints. T-case is up to you as all you need it the correct shaft/u-joint to attach to it.

According to that it would be 3" lift for MA.. Their formula says that a 2" lift and 2" larger tires = 4" total lift over stock ... someone needs to educate them a little on that. A 2" lift & 2" larger tire would = 3" total lift over stock... You're not looking at the formula, you're looking at an example. The formula is wheelbase x track / 2200. The example says it might be possible under that formula to qualify a 4" lift of which 2" comes from the body/suspension lift and 2" comes from larger tires. ...but, using their formula, an MJ would qualify for a 3" lift... right? A 3" lift by their formula would be a 2" lift and 2" larger tires unless I am just completely not getting what they are saying. I'm seeing this... LWB - 120 x 58 / 2200 = 3.16" SWB - 113 x 58 / 2200 = 2.97" So no matter if it is short or long bed...3" is the MA limit according to that formula. Now...how often is it likely that they are going to get out there and actually figure out what "stock height" is and check to see if you are within spec?? :dunno:

According to that it would be 3" lift for MA.. Their formula says that a 2" lift and 2" larger tires = 4" total lift over stock ... someone needs to educate them a little on that. A 2" lift & 2" larger tire would = 3" total lift over stock... You're not looking at the formula, you're looking at an example. The formula is wheelbase x track / 2200. The example says it might be possible under that formula to qualify a 4" lift of which 2" comes from the body/suspension lift and 2" comes from larger tires. ...but, using their formula, an MJ would qualify for a 3" lift... right? A 3" lift by their formula would be a 2" lift and 2" larger tires unless I am just completely not getting what they are saying. I'm seeing this... LWB - 120 x 58 / 2200 = 3.16" SWB - 113 x 58 / 2200 = 2.97" So no matter if it is short or long bed...3" is the MA limit according to that formula. Now...how often is it likely that they are going to get out there and actually figure out what "stock height" is and check to see if you are within spec?? :dunno:

damnitman... I keep skipping over that fact that it's a 2.5L ... sorry ... :oops:

damnitman... I keep skipping over that fact that it's a 2.5L ... sorry ... :oops:

According to that it would be 3" lift for MA.. Their formula says that a 2" lift and 2" larger tires = 4" total lift over stock ... someone needs to educate them a little on that. A 2" lift & 2" larger tire would = 3" total lift over stock...

According to that it would be 3" lift for MA.. Their formula says that a 2" lift and 2" larger tires = 4" total lift over stock ... someone needs to educate them a little on that. A 2" lift & 2" larger tire would = 3" total lift over stock...

This is actually shown as an '88 Manual, but it should help with closely related years as well. As with my other posts, please open it and save it to your computer... https://comancheclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=14915

It "shouldn't" be able to do it, but it quite obviously is :cheers: Impressive...!! :banana:

It "shouldn't" be able to do it, but it quite obviously is :cheers: Impressive...!! :banana:

The way this kit bolts in, it's not going to move. Anything bolt on can be as good or better than welding as long as quality hardware is used. One point of reference is a winch plate...it has been proven that a bolted winch plate will take more to rip off than a welded plate. It has also been proven that Grade 8 hardware is stronger than most welds. Here is a shot of it installed from Motions site...

The way this kit bolts in, it's not going to move. Anything bolt on can be as good or better than welding as long as quality hardware is used. One point of reference is a winch plate...it has been proven that a bolted winch plate will take more to rip off than a welded plate. It has also been proven that Grade 8 hardware is stronger than most welds. Here is a shot of it installed from Motions site...

Nope...no memory or battery. It is simply an ECU that does it's pre-programmed job on every start up.

Nope...no memory or battery. It is simply an ECU that does it's pre-programmed job on every start up.

Yeah...the D30 will be fine with moderate upgrades. As stated, the later model shafts with the 297 u-joints are quite impressive. I wheeled an XJ in Tellico on both upper & lower trail 2 that had a D60 rear & D30 front running 36" Swampers and had no issue. This is the beast I was driving....

Yeah...the D30 will be fine with moderate upgrades. As stated, the later model shafts with the 297 u-joints are quite impressive. I wheeled an XJ in Tellico on both upper & lower trail 2 that had a D60 rear & D30 front running 36" Swampers and had no issue. This is the beast I was driving....

I must take this back as I realized after posting it that I have it backwards... :oops: