BLHTAZ

Cool...Thanks :thumbsup: I just discovered that I am goingto need to do some floor work in mine. The only noticeable hole is up in the front outer corner on both sides, but what seems small often ends up being much larger with stuff like this.

Sounds like it's probably a bad guage. I have seen it quite a few times on these swaps. I had a bad oil pressure guage in mine when I did the swap. You can still get the guages from the dealership as well as finding them on eBay quite often too. Your idle issue sounds like it's going to be one of the two things already mentioned. I lean a little more toward the vacuum leak related to the booster or the booster itself being bad. If the IAC were bad or clogged up with crud, the problem would be more consistent in my experience...but, anythign is possible.

I did the same thing and still ended up buying the slave from the dealership as he one in the kit was junk. I hope it works for you, but don't be surprised if you end up pulling the tranny again in a few months :smart:

Diane...you didn't mention the gear ratio...is it the same as yours?

I have no idea what that picture is, but it is a custom set-up for something... :hmm: Anyway...with the external slave, there should be nothing to do but unbolt the old one and put in the new one. No swapping of parts of any kind should be needed.

Just as an amendment... I did some more research yesterday and AMSOIL says that there is No Sulfur in any of their products either so I guess that's why I have run the AMSOIL gear oil all these years nad never had a problem. :thumbsup:

:jump: GOOD NEWS...!! The shirts are done ahead of schedule. I just went and picked them up early this morning. We should have all of them sorted and shipped by the end of the week so it looks like a lot of you will have them before Christmas :clapping:

If you are going to stay with the 31's, then I would go with 3.73. If you are intending to go to 33's, I would go with 4.10. I have 4.56's with 35's with a 4.0L, AX15 in our YJ and it is more than enough gear so I would not want to run 4.56 with 33's. Actually, I did run 33's on the YJ for a short time and it cuold start out in 3rd gear with no problem on flat ground.

I think ya'll are using way to much brain over this :yes: . The manufacturers have tested these things before they put them on the market so if failure was such an ominous threat, I don't think they would do it that way. If the self tapping bolts were the only point of attachment, then there may be an issue, but with them attached there and having several bolts going through the pinch seam, I don't see that there is any reason to be so worried about it. :dunno:

Never seen it done. You should just do it and take lots of pictures to share the process with us :thumbsup:

I have never had the desire to decorate for Christmas...or any other holiday for that matter :dunno: . Just never made sense to me... I do like looking at what other people have doen though so start posting up your pics or videos so I can look :yes: for a short video of the house across the street from me.

Click Here and you will find downloadable complete factory service manuals that should help you out. I know there is someone on here that has done this fairly recently, but I can't remember who at the moment. Do a little searching in the DIY & Project forums and you should find it.

ASSuming that they are in good working order... -$400 tops private sale -$200 tops from salvage

You can get them through rockauto.com for anywhere between $72 - $105 depending on what you need / want. :cheers:

Congrats on the Jeep and welcome to the Club :thumbsup: :cheers:

:idea: AHHHH...these explain it. I have always used CV shafts any time I have lifted a vehicle so I have always adjusted the pinion angle. With little or no lift and a standard two u-joint shaft...they stay on the same plain :thumbsup:

Which engine do you have? :idea: You may want to put your basic Jeep spec's in your sig if you want to keep asking questions that require us to know what engine, tranny etc, etc... that you have ;)

:agree: Take the IAC out and clean it and the throttle body real well. The "stepping on the brake" things has me thinking that there may be a vacuum leak issue somewhere though too...possibly in the booster.

This is good advice. My previous 3 week battle with the running / idle issues was due to a ground problem where the battery grounds with the other 4 ground wires on the block right near the dip stick. I took it apart, replacaed all the battery cables and bolted all the wires back on the block and VIOLA...not more troubles.

This what Sir Google told me... :D ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Synslide® additive technology is noncorrosive to gears and bearings, including case-hardened gears that are easily pitted by conventional sulfur-phosphorus EP oils. Synslide® additive technology displaces water from metal surfaces and excels in protecting equipment in wet environments. It also fortifies the oil against the detrimental effects of heat, which causes oil to oxidize. Max-Gear® Exclusive Performance Advantages: Severe Service Performance Max-Gear® exceeds Eaton's stringent GL-5 / MIL-L-2105D Gear Oil Specs. Max-Gear® also is safe for GL-4 applications or bronze synchro gears. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So it appears to me that there should be no problem in running the Royal Purple Gear Oil instead of motor oil.

Well...being "worth it or not" really depends on how you intend to use the truck. It's more stable, but less flex than the coils so it's more suited for a mud truck although there are people like me that like the stability of leaf springs on the rocks even though it doesn't flex quite as much. The leaf springs will put more stress on the unibody so you will have to be sure and do a good job of reinforcing the connecting points and possibly doing a frame plate kit on it.

Good luck with that (Rusty's)... :shake: -No, you should not need to lower the t-case, but you may have to lengthen the rear driveshaft a little. -Yes, you need LCA's...and in my opinion, you need UCA's as well. I just looked at the pasrts list for the Rusty's kit and it says that the LCA's are included so you would just need UCA's to complete it. The stock control arms are junk. They do OK for a stock truck, but with the added stress of a lift they are not trustworthy in my experience. OME springs are great, but they don't make any for larger lifts. The spacers they use are simply to give lift and look...but, they will fall out with any decent amount of articulation. If you are not going to use it severely offraod, then you shold be OK...it's just not the "right" way to do things ;) . The modification that appears to be needed is welding on the new spring perches and shock mounts from what I see.

I have seen it done, but I don't know of anyone currently on here that has one done that way. I have a friend up in GA that has done it to a couple of XJ's and there was one on here for a while, but he sold it and is working on a new project now. His username is georgiaboy27 (but he lives here in FL) if you want to try sending him PM and asking questions about his previous MJ with the front leaf springs.

The fuel pressure regulator on the front end of the rail is exactly that. It regulates the fuel pressure by letting fuel out of the rail as needed and is a one way valve...or check valve if you will ;)

I have never heard that :hmm: You will likely get away with that theory with a 3" lift, but with the larger lifts there is no way to keep the pinion down like that...even with a CV style shaft. :dunno: