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BLHTAZ

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Everything posted by BLHTAZ

  1. Any 87-01 4L radiator will work, if you get one from an open system make sure you get the radiator cap for it too. :agree: You can use the open system radiator in your truck, but if you have the electric cooling fan, you are goingto have to find a way to make it work as the later model open system radiators do not have the port for the temperture switch that activates that fan. If you found an '87...it will not be a V-6, but rather a 4.0L I-6...in which case you would be good to go with that as it will be the same thing that you have. Anything '87 - '90 will be the same radiator and bolt right in without issue. :thumbsup:
  2. The manaul locking hubs allow you to run a full locker, or even a spool if you want, in the front axle without and ill effects for daily driving. With the hubs unlocked your axle shafts will not turn therefore reducing drag as well as wear on other parts since the front driveshaft will not be turning either as it would in and axle with a traction device without manual hubs.
  3. Love the restoration projects :thumbsup: . Lift kits can be intricate and are worth spending the "right" money on, but not "stupid" money ;) . If you are thinking of going the 6.5" range, you can count on spending $1500 - $2000 for a quality kit. Welcome to the Club and keep us posted... :cheers:
  4. The one for the EGR solenoid is part of this, which is the first of the two things I linked to above.
  5. Absolutely...great deal :thumbsup: Look forward to the progress reports. :cheers:
  6. I am not good with electrical issues so I won't even try to work on this one, but it may help someone help you if you posted some info about exactly what you are working on...year, engine etc, etc... :idea:
  7. BLHTAZ

    OUCH

    Dude... :ack: Made mine hurt just reading that...
  8. oooo hmmm i really like the sound of it! i could use the stock pipe after it still tho right? Yep...you can see in my picture that we used the stock pipe on the right side (just cut a little off the back) and only had to make a new one for the left. Saved me a little money ;) I had them made with little turn downs just behind the bumper because I don't like to see tail pipes sticking out. Exhaust should be heard...not seen IMO.
  9. Yea...that was just a little of me being a smart a$$ ;) ...I guess it throws things off because I don't do it often :doh: The fact remains for me though...I do not buy shocks for my trucks at an auto parts store as I have never seen them have anything that was really any better than the stock junk that comes on them. Just because they have a good warranty on them is no reason to compromise. I drive lifted trucks...I don't expect a "soft" ride ;) :thumbsup:
  10. Yes...it's a Flowmaster 40 and they do make them with a single out. The single one is what 89eliminator posted in his video :thumbsup:
  11. May be a little louder than what you want, but here's mine...
  12. :clapping: Excellent job :thumbsup: Your oil pressure is fine. If it were low, I would be looking at the rod & main bearings before the oil pump as the bearings are VERY often the problem where oil pressure is concerned and the pump is rarely an issue. If you are running the pressures that you just wrote...I woudn't touch anything. Mine was running at about 12 psi @ warm idle and would not go over 28 at 3000 RPM. My bearings were shot and I did the pump for the hell of it while we were in there and it now idles at about 20 - 25 and runs at about 40 on the hwy.
  13. :thumbsup: That's the kind of wheelin' that we like :clapping:
  14. I like it...but, I like most things camo :cheers: I say do it!
  15. The regulator line appears to be there, but it's pretty hard to tell. I have labeled the other things for you. The MAP sensor should have a vacuum tube going directly to the side of the throttle body and it is a formed hard plastic tube. Looks like you need THIS ...and THIS Those should cover most of what is missing, but the MAP sensor will have to purchased seperately. I couldn't find it on NAPA and may be a dealer item.
  16. Anyone have pics?? I have no idea what ya'll are talking about :hmm:
  17. That would have to be approved / done through Pete...his site...his logo ;) . They would have to work out a deal with him so that it benefits & supports the site just like I do with making & selling the Club shirts :thumbsup:
  18. 4 Wheep Parts sells the ProComp shocks. The ES9000's are what I use on all 3 of our trucks and love them. They are not expensive at about $40 - $45 each typically. I know you can find them other places, but 4WP / ProComp are the same company so they have the most in stock ;) I would not put hte Monroe "car" shocks on my trucks :no: ;) :cheers:
  19. If he has done a Warn hub conversion, than shifting on the fly is pointless as all it will do is put the t-case in 4HI, but the truck will still be 2WD because you have to get out and lock the hubs manually unless you drive around with them locked , which would not be a good idea.
  20. That's probably a vBulletin site.
  21. :thumbsup: That's pretty cool :clapping:
  22. I just had the same problem on my 2002 Ram, but I don't know if it would affect these trucks like that.
  23. :rotf: That's great!! :thumbsup:
  24. It's a ZIP file so you have to be able to extract it first. I don't know what kind of computer you are using, but I thought all versions of windows came with a basic ZIP extractor.
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