BLHTAZ

Timing "belt"? In an MJ? The 2.5L uses the same silent roller timing "chain" that the 4.0L does. Yep...with the exception being that the 2.5L uses a tensioner and the 4.0L does not. The tensioner can go bad and cause similar issues.

Yes, that is actually a more common problem than what I mentioned, but I had forgotten about that. :thumbsup:

Welcome... :cheers: Here is a thread with a lot of good dimension detail that I found with the search... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7372&p=71786&hilit=short+bed+dimensions#p71786 The short bed is 6 feet...the long 7 feet, so the sheet of plywood will fit width wise, but not length with the gate closed.

:eek: They retail for about $25 from the dealership, but I suppose that is because it is a rarely need, and somewhat odd item. Don't forget that you can check with Tracy (he is mjdoa on here) if new dealer parts are needed. He works at a dealership here in FL and is willing to help. :smart:

You should be able to email anyone that has the email button available. If it is not there, then you have to use the PM button.

Good advice here :thumbsup: It's cheap for a reason...you get what you pay for...stay away from RRO :cheers: Sounds like all good, friendly, knowledgeable advice to me :yes:

Where is your Jeep in Orlando? I would be happy to take a look at it if it is not too far away from me. I am in South Orlando right near the Orlando International Airport. I would advise staying away from using spacers on top of lift springs. Just go with the 4.5" set-up and run some 31's. The D35 can easily be broken (as Pete stated) on smaller tires on the street. I have seen them break on 31's when someone took off a little too hard from a stoplight. You can see mine on the RE 3.5" kit with 31's from the links in my sig.

Sounds like someone has changed the compressor before, or at least the clutch assembly, and installed the wrong one. The only other common alignment problem area that I have seen is the power steering pulley. If it has been off and was pressed back on too far, it will cause the same problem. Check and be sure the center shaft is flush with the outer edge of the pulley. If the shaft is sticking out past the pulley center hub, then it needs to be pulled out. I had this problem when I bought my truck, but it just caused a terrible belt squeal.

As already stated, leave the overload spring in there. There is no benefit to removing it. I would definitely not advise using springs & spacers in the front...just get some 6" springs that are matched up with a good long-arm lift kit and do it right. :cheers:

I have asked him long ago about it. He posted in the "problems & ideas" forum that he was working on it, but then all of his troubles started with the gout and I haven't really heard much from him since. phpbb does support it as our webmaster on the site I Admin has installed it for us there.

Most everyone I know never replaces them when they fall out. I have seen a few conversations on here about them, but the consensus seems to be that they are useless and not worth spending the money on.

:agree: That was my first thought too. Bad gas or clogged fuel filter...maybe both. Start simple - be sure you have good gas, and it is getting to the motor unrestricted.

:rotf: By adding 4" blocks or 4" lift springs.

Could be the bearing on that front output, or the chain in the t-case is stretched and banging. I've had the chain problem twice now.

You could try a flush, but if it's blocked that badly, it may not do any good. I would be afraid of driving it that far...a short distance would 5 miles or less. These engines achieve operating temperature within just a few minutes so 15 miles would probably be trouble if the problem is what it seems.

Sounds like the radiator is clogged to me.

Definitely saty away from the Rocky Road crap...so out of the two yo posted, the Rough Country would be the choice. I would, however, also advise going with a Rubicon Express kit, something from Motion Offroad, or Hell Creek Suspensions. :cheers:

Actually...I have never used a wrench on the ring gear bolts like that. I have never had a problem with just removing the bearing caps and then putting a pry bar under the carrier...with just a bump or two, the carrier comes out. As he stated in that write up though...be sure you make note of the bearing caps so that they go back on the correct sides and with the same ends top & bottom.

WOW... :eek: I had seen some news & pictures of flooding, but had no idea it was that bad. We'll be praying for you.

Careful now...I know the boyfriends of those girls, and you don't want to mess with them... :rotf:

That's a great idea! I don't know a lot about the Fort Pierce area as-far-as 4x4 shops. We are in Fort Pierce usually once a year for a Jeep Club show, but have never taken the time to check out the area. Did you try asking on FJOA about places in your area for the coil spacers?

I used the TeraFlex set-up on our YJ, but I did not buy the knuckle...just the rods. I had a friend (certified welder) help me build the needed addition to the stock knuckle using a pitman arm.

There ya go... If you have a friend that is able to do it, or help you do it, then I would go that way. If you do the re-gear, you will get new gears, new bearings, new carriers etc, etc., and be set for a long time. Don't let anyone convince you that you can save money by getting used gears...you will be sorry in the long run. It is a very poor choice to try to re-use gears in any situation. :cheers:

That all depends on how you do it. If you are able to find axles that are already geared with what you want, then yes, you should be able to do it. If you have to pay someone to re-gear your axles, then you are going to pay more. Most retail shops get $1000 - $1200 for a gear job...parts & labor. Gears are NOT something that can be done by the average guy as they require special tools and knowledge.