BLHTAZ

That may be the thing to do. It defnitely looks like a 3" (maybe a sagging 4") lift though.

Yes...that is a very good possibility. It is a vacuum resevior and if it leaks or a line going to/from it leaks you will have these problems.

Well...I finally got my gray bucket seats so the only thing I would still like to have is a D44 rear. I am not in any big hurry and I really want to find one out of an MJ so I don't have to worry with cutting and welding. ;)

:cheers: Excellent job. The Jeep is looking great! Hey...is that at horse carriage in the background in this shot?

Not always more performance...but definitely longer life and sometimes a "little" better MPG.

The set up I have is perfect for what I wanted. It puts the truck at just the right height to get in & out of without climbing or crouching and it clears the 31's with no rubbing anywhere. I looked at it yesterday when I was cutting the fenders & flares as I had the wheels turned as fars as I could to keep them out of the way and I did notice that there was not much room in the rear of the wheel well so a tire bigger than 31 would not be a good thing...although possible if you wanted to deal with a little rubbing.

I would be willing to do it for you. It would cost you $10 + shipping of "about" $8.50 - $9 most likely. I only have maybe 5 or 6 clocks left to make these out of so I don't want to get a big thing started here, but I am willing to do what I can. We have sold quite a few of them on eBay when we were doing it regularly. We were selling them on eBay for $15 + shipping ;) .

We were making and selling clocks for a while as part of the little side business we do with our Jeep t-shirts, hats & stuff. We have a few blanks left so I dedcided to make one for my office here at the house :D This is the design before applied to the clock. THe actual clock picture looks faded because of the clear cover over it and the reflection takes away from the clarity.

:hmm: That doesn't look like anything I have seen on a 4.0L CCV system. He is asking about a rubber part which I believe to be the line on the forward end of the valve cover and should be able to be found in the aftermarket for much less than at a dealer. I know NAPA has them here in the US, but not sure about Norway.

Excellent job Rich :cheers: . You are fortunate to find Comanche stuff at a yard around here. I have called a few and only ever found one MJ.

Yin/Yang... I like it :cheers: :D

Hot spots are typically visible, but warpage is not always able to be seen by eye. A good straight edge can usually tell the story there though.

Yep...I grew up in PA and you are right...you cannot buy beer or liquor in a regular store of any kind. You can get it in some restaurants, but typically you have to go to "Beer Distributor" or a Liquor Store. Dry is just a minor inconvenience though and nothing big enough to keep me from living in such a beautiful place as the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Only reason I said ECU right off is that he has already reaplced the TPS, IAC, o2, MAP etc... ;) . It's definitley not the first thing to go for, but it is looking more likely with all the other stuff already done.

How long does it stay that high? Could be a sign of the ECU going bad.

Cut the front fenders today... Of course...one of the studs had to break off... :roll: Leftovers...

Took the first step today and did the cuting... :D

This picture is a TPS... :cheers: The IAC is larger, longer and has an angled connection with the plunger shaft that goes inside the TB like this...

I would do the simple things first... Disconnect the lines to the front at the valve and see if there is output at that point first. Then disconnect the other end of the lines and try to blow air through it to see if the line is blocked.

It's either IAC or TPS. Mine idles perfect and steady at 600 RPMs after initial start up. At start up it typically goes up to about 1500 right away and then moves back down to 600 in just 3-4 seconds.

Here is a 12 page .PDF file with all the rules. Rule #1 knocks me out right off the bat :roll:

:oops: Actually...I have two pair of nice mechanics gloves in my tool box now that you say that... :oops: Don't typically use them, but they would have been appropriate for this. :smart:

Yep...I slipped one time. I went and found a towel to wrap around the wrench and my had so that wouldn't happen any more :wall:

...you have a 3 row radiator :mad: I put a new shroud in it about a year ago when it had the old radiator, but I have since broken that one and didn't bother with it for a few months. I finally got around to installing the new one tonight and found that you have to remove the fan & fan clutch to put the new shroud in when the radiator has been upgraded to a 3 row :roll: . It's no problem getting the fan clutch off with no shroud, but putting it back on when the new shroud is in place is a real PITA!! Sorry...just had to b*@$£ a bit... :headpop: Now it's time for the Lime :D

Nice...but is that a hard enough metal to last? I though that the bushings needed to be steel.