BLHTAZ

You may be able to get them at an auto parts store, but I got mine at the dealership. Comes as an assembly like this...

Check the condition of the battery cables. You can not see a lot of the cable without doing a little digging as I found out on mine. I though they were OK just judging by what I could see without moving things and actually looking at the complete cables. When I did look...it scared me badly as the positive & negative cables were literally melted together and could have caused a fire at any moment. If the cables are OK, then you need to push on to possibly a starter. My old cables... The new ones...

Best thing you could do is replace the battery cable wiring. It is typically sold as an assembly. Many MJ's have been lost to fires from bad battery wiring.

Unfortunately, I am not familiar with that engine so we'll wait for another to reply as I am curious to learn something here myself.

PM sent. :cheers: It is an assembly with the valve unfortunately.

:rotfl2: :rotf:

Mine averages 17-18 mpg around town, but it was only getting 13-14 before I put the new fuel injectors in it.

Looks good :cheers: Now to get the rest painted to match ;)

I think #1 is best. #2 looks too purdy and not useable.

We need more info about what you are working on. Year & engine are most essential in answering this question ;) If it's a 4.0L...you can not adjust timing.

You are right on it frm my experiences. Timing has been the culprit every time I have run across the trouble that you are desribing. The 2.5L uses a chain tensioner that the 4.0L doesn't and when it goes, you will have trouble.

I still want to do an OBA on the YJ one day too, but the tank is so convenient for moving between 3 vehicles ;) .

P/n 56027012 is the one you need. Maybe Taz can help you out? 56027012 = about $18 retail, but I can sell it for $11.50. You will still have a couple dollars additional for mailing it too, so it may be just as easy to get one at AZ or Discount...whatever you have around you. Let me know if I can help. :cheers:

No...that is the one for the electric fan. The sensor for the cluster is on the left rear top corner of the head...

If you have a smooth surface and just need to create a better place for the new paint to stick, I would go with something even finer like 800 - 1000 grit. The 280 - 320 range would be good for any rough spots in the old clear as pingpong said.

If that's all it did...he will be very lucky. Hydro-locking is typically a lot worse than that once you get inside and look.

Yeah, I tried that too, but not only do I have fat hands, I also have short T-rex length arms and I found it uncomfortable to try and reach up while laying on the floor to spin em. :laughin: I just don't know what to say to that... :dunno: ...BUT, the mental picture is hilarious... :rotfl2: (sorry...not making fun of you or anything) :cheers:

Here is one that I have seen... http://www.gljt.org/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=10033 Go to Google and search " Homemade posi lock " and you will find a few different write-ups ;) .

I found them a bit easier to get at from under the truck. ;)

You are going to have to remove the driver seat and lift the carpet. The cable runs back and crosses under the carpet & seat to the center hump and then runs back and out the center of the cab. :cheers: I have alaready investigated it on mine as mine is broken right at the pedal... :cry:

The only way to be sure you have installed it correctly and have all the air out is to fire it up and drive it for just a few miles to get it up to temp. If you have air...it will start to overheat fairly quickly...or...you will notice the bottle on the firewall start to swell up a bit. If you do as instructed here though, you should be OK. ;)

Looks fine to me :dunno: What are you asking about? He seems to be proud of having the "original" tires, but I would not drive 10 feet on 17 year old tires :nuts: .

Very nice... Welcome to the club :cheers:

With the custom changes I have made to our YJ, I just had the DS built from scratch at a local drivetrain shop. The cost was nearly the same as having a shaft taken apart and rebuilt to fit...especially when building a CV style shaft.

Welcome...looking forward to the build :cheers: .