BLHTAZ

Yeah...I would say to go over all of the battery cables and ground straps VERY carefully. After a couple other converstions on here about the same problems, the issue was found to be bad/loose battery and/or ground cables. ;) Don't just "look" at them...grab them, pull them, bend them and make sure the connections and cables are good.

Yeah...I forgot about that...replacing the battery harness did make a little difference on mine too., but it still cranks over 4-5 times before firing.

Is it not as simple as being sure that the memory wire is connected to a constant hot? ...via a fuse obviously... ;) I am no radio or electrical expert, but that seems logical to me... :chillin:

Not 100% sure, but I would imagine that you could fix it by removing the factory gauge and inserting an aftermarket guage that will fit in the hole. I believe I have seen it done, but don't remember where right now.

The long start is a trait of the Renix system engines. Mine does it too and when I thought it was a problem and tried to fix it, I found that there is no fix for it. The only thing that seemed to make a little difference is when I put the new injectors in it.

Mine does the same thing...it stays at about the 30lb mark. Sometimes it will be at 40, but typically doesn't move from 30. :nuts: I intend to stick a manual guage on it to be sure, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

:D That's kinda what I figured the statement was about...BUT...it's just one of those things you can't let get by ya know ;) :brows: .

For those of you wanting these clocks...one thing I want to let you know about is they are not "high dollar" clocks so the second hand movement is very deliberate and a little loud. I don't suggest putting them in a place that the "tick, tick, tick" will not annoy you or anyone else. It's not like it resinates through the house, but it's noticeable in a quiet room ;) .

I don't know that there is a complete thread about it, but if you look at page 4 of this thread you will see the Moroso tank that Eagle used to do just that... http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... conversion

UMMMM...what...?? :eek: :laughin:

I am still waiting for a confirmation on what a CDI box is as I have never heard of that... :hmm:

That is the breather/vent for the diff. ;)

May be something that will go over, but we already have the "MJ Projects" forum for posting your rig and what you have done to it. Not a complete duplication, but close. I'll be glad to post if it is something that the bosses want to pursue. :cheers: BTW...I like the idea myself as that question comes up a lot :D .

I can check with them, but the problem may still be the same...Heat Range... The adjustable set up that I am using now had to be set at it's lowest setting to get it to come on when I needed.

I have not done a AW4 swap personally. I am not sure about compatibility from a 4.0L to a 2.5L harness unless you are changing all of the wiring and not just the tranny harness. That will likely take a little more research. I know it's not a terribly hard thing to do if you already have a 4.0L though. If you go the AX-15 direction, try to find one that is '91+ to match your motor. It will make it much easier to get a match on the pilot. No...I have not done the leaf conversion on mine ;) .

8) That's a cool toy...thanks :cheers:

8) Very cool. I know we have at least one member here from Norway too. Keep us informed when you can. :cheers:

So...it sounds like you got a bad IAC if I am understanding you correctly...? It runs fine with it unplugged?

If you are going to do the auto, you will need the wiring harness and tranny controller as well. You could be in for A LOT of work doing that swap in an '86. The AX-15 would be the easiest swap for a manual. It would be best to find one of like year model, but most any will work...just some take a little more effort than others, especially where the pilot bushing/bearing is concerned. There are at least 2-3 recent threads about just that if you do a little searching.

DING! My thought too as putting fresh gas in was not mentioned. If it has fresh gas, then I would agree with fuel pump as the likely culprit.

I thought that too, but it's not correct. That may work for a '91+, but on the Renix....it's a direct connect switch, not a sensor and it does not work because you can not find a "switch" with the correct temperature range to run the fan. Believe me...I spent weeks looking for this and talking to companies that make fan controlers and they all said that it doesn't exist. The t-stat housing stays too cool being right behind the mechanical fan so the one switch that is out there (for an old Corvette) will not turn the fan on until the engine is over 230 degrees. Maveric...I hope it is just a t-stat and it stays simple. You can change to an "ope style" system...just do it without changing the radiator as show in the other threads ;) .

OK...thought that might be the case, but you don't know until you ask ;) :D .

Through a relay! Run it through a relay. :D Guess I shouldn't ASSume anything ;) :cheers: .

This is exactly the issue I was trying to warn you about when I said that I would NOT recommend doing it this way. I worked for several weeks to find a solution to the issue. If you look back at the links to my conversion threads that I posted in your previous thread about this you will find the solution that I used. It is the switch that controls your electric fan. Most people just run wires in to the dash and hook up a manual switch to turn it on when needed, but I wanted mine to work on it's own as intended so I went through hell and back to make it work. Here is my thread on the electric fan nightmare... http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... conversion

Pretty wild looking. That top hose doesn't fit very well though. It should be going under the AC lines and behind the compressor... shouldn't it?