rocketwheels

..."Not only that, I don't see how it would seal tightly into the threaded hole. Surely oil would seep past.".... ...they are made of a soft rubber that really squishes into shape and conforms to whatever surface. I prefered the ones that have the "sheetrock" anchor that inserts through the hole and gives positive pressure from the inside. Wouldn't hurt to keep one of those in the "trail pack", just in case you ever whacked the oil pan bolt and broke it or bent it. I had an extra in my trunk "back in the day" and a friends wife drove over a parking curb and actually ripped the whole bolt and welded nut out of the pan of her car, this little doo-dad worked enough to keep from having to pay towing to the autoshop. Not a permanent fix, but if you feel good about it's fit, it will work.

I used those and the other "expansion" type oil plugs in the past on older cars not worth the "Oil Pan Pull and Change or Fix" effort. They worked really well for years, through many oil changes. These cars never left level roadways! I would listen to the others and make the right fix effort if the truck does the off road thing.

...just grenaded the rear end in the old "Sgt. Rock" Sportruk. :mad: Have a rear lined up from a salvage yard ($125 complete drum to drum, no wheels/tires) from a recently running truck. :D I have no clue as to which rear it is. :nuts: I have the wimpy rear diff. Will the entire rear end, no matter which version (Dana,etc...), swap right into the truck....or are there little differences like U-Joints, brake lines and cables and other harware ? All the locals that have Jeep Comanche rears want $400 plus :headpop: , most of these are for 4x4 applications. I would like to tell the guy to go ahead and pull this one tomorrow for me to pick up Sat. What ya'll think? :popcorn:

....I had never though about the open exhaust causing this, but as the muffler has disintergrated, the mis has gotten worse as the sound has gotten louder. It's a shame , too, cause this babies really scooting off the line. It'l lay a patch until you hit second, jumps sideways for many feet then bang 3rd and she does it again....as long as you keep it off the "rev limiter" mis rpm range. Got a budy wth an Eliminator , it won't even come close to this SporTruck!

...all the other stuff is new , replaced by me. The wires were new with no real run time, just the age.They look fine, and there is no "light show" at night wit the hood up. I will replace the wires soon and see what gives from that point.

i was wonderin if that was something common to the 6cyl set-up. I don't know how to check it. I also know the wires have very few miles on them, but they are 6 years old. They were put on when somebody in the previous owners family made a go at getting the truck road worthy. Maybe 1000 miles on them, mostly by me and the mis started in the last 200 miles or so....I will probably replace them anyways....soon

....their aint a Kat in the sytem any more....come to speak of it there isn't much of a functioning muffler there either ! don't know if the sensors you speak of are even still operational, but I will be going thru these things. It is a definate big "dead" mis,,,sometimes just 1, but sometimes severall in a row. Sounds like hitting the rev limiter when you wind out a gear and sorta like that when cruising. Thanks on the paint, the clear had blistered completely off, got after it with $50 worth of Camo Krylon from Walmart. Painted my flatbottom boat to match and will be painting my 15 foot "RoadRunner" travel trailer to match. Will post pics of all this when they are completed!

I see you are in N. Bama....where? I'm here in Huntspatch.....

...it runs better cold then really acts up when warmed up. I have experienced the TPS problem a few times recently, it will crank at high idle and stay there for the entire trip, shut it it off a while and it returns to normal. It was doing this before the mis started. I will check the ballast resistor "jump" and see how it acts. I was reading the "injector" threads and was thinking that may be what is happening.

cruising speed but not while the "hammer" is down ? Ive went thru the entire ignition tune up process, still have this huge intermittant kick while cruizing but not at idle or under heavy acceleration. :nuts:

here is what has been done already.....1988 6cyl 5spd, plugs, wires, cap, rotor button, and just recently replaced the cta or cps sensor on bell housing as I also recently developed the intermittant "no start" problem. Truck does not miss at idle or when heavy on throttle(until really high in the r's right before an up shift), but when you get to any cruising speed it starts to cut out severely and it is not a rythmic miss. I don't have any clue about sensors and this is one of the newest cars I've ever worked on. Is there something else I am missing? Injectors, perhaps? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks gang

AMC Eagles had a turbine looking wheel cover over the stock rims, they would brobably look OK for the application. My 84 Eagle sedan had them, they also have a 4X4 emblem in the center cap....

an additional note of warning on the box adjustment.....if you tighten too far, the wheel will not try to return to center naturally as you come out of a turn. I did this on an old cougar with the really soft overpowered steering. Instead of trying to center on its own, the power steering pushed the wheel further as I came out of the turn and had started releasing my grip on the wheel. Needless to say, scared the you know out of me!

old 70's era big fords have small cooler about 5 inches wide and 12 inches long that hand downwards off of their pwr str mounting brackets out in front of the belts and pulleys. Those big fords need the cooling help with all that weight up front

....just went thru my 1st tank on the old chicken shed find. The 87 6cyl got 16.5 mpg running 235/70 15's and whatever stock rear gear is. I can't complain, I'll only use it as a severe weather back up to my daily driver, the VStar650....60 mpg and fun to ride!

....I'm with 87comanche....those danged bolts that come loose in the GM tilt columns are a pain. Every GM I've had (vettes , regals, caprices, caddy's) and my AMC Eagle, all of them came loose at some point, some several times and I used lock tight on all the ones I ever serviced. I wouldn't put a GM tilt column in my car just for worry that it may come loose at the tilt knuckle.....

...the picture of the factory winch bumper in the owners manual shows a stock bumper with a slot cut in it and it is spaced out from the grill about its own depth. aparently there was some sort of space filler / extended bumper mounts between the bumper and body along with the winch mounts....I'll find the manual and scan a pic of it. I do have the Butt Ugly factory Brush Guard and the factory plastic bedliner along with a dealer installed Dodge Dakota cab fairing with fog lights... http://images22.fotki.com/v518/fileInH9 ... leted8.jpg

....other than the relay popped idea....anytime you have juice and then nothing at all, check the ground at the battery and frame/motor 1st, then the next grounds in the system....

.....I wonder why the Fotki photo shows up for a while then become the "redX"....the pics are still there under that address.....what gives?

....really , thats the one. She was right at 20 inches and very thick, carrying a whole mess of eggs! made for 2 large filet steaks !! YUM! ...here is a link to my fotki account, there are pics in there of all my past cars that I thought to take a photo of....... http://public.fotki.com/rocketwheels/

.....so we went fishing instead of Coyote hunting, ....warm day here in N. Alabama, low 40's at day break, into the 60's mid day and a mild wind. The Crappi have turned off in the deeper holes in Lake Guntersville, so we slid up into the shallows around docks and boat houses. Picked up one fair sized Crappie and and 3.8 lb Large Mouth. Wasn't a stellar day, but hey, we was fishing ! 8) http://images22.fotki.com/v724/file78Yz ... C00028.jpg

....well, I thought about another round of Coyote hunting this weekend. Then I came to my senses and decided to go Crappi fishing. Yeah, thats way safer than Coyote hunting.....except, the guy that owns the boat is the same guy that shot my truck :roll: .....I'll let yall know how it turns out :chillin:

...thats a good looking "rig" you have created, are you sure you didn't work for Ford engineering backin the 70's?.....they really loved using coffee/bean cans for everything !!

....I have to agree with comanchedude, if the rings are heavy worn "Restore" will do what he says, will not bother sending units and doesn't clog the filter. You will have to use it every oil change as it only last 3-4 thousand mile. I have driven many 60's and 70's fords that have been worn slap out and the stuff made a drastic improvement every time. I would say I have used it in at least 20 vehicles since the product was put on the market and never had any problems with it. I used to work in a parts store years ago and agree that most of it is snake oil, but not that one! 3 things I believe in "Restore" , "Lucas 80w Racing Oil" and "Bars Leak Original", kept many a dying Ford on the road for years .... PS, never put it in a VW flat 4 as it will increase the cylinders compression to the point it will damage the engine. AFTER BLOWING UP 2 BUGS THE SAME WAY,I'D SAY THE STUFF DOES WHAT IT SAYS!

oops! I meant to put this in the wheeling folder! My bad !! :chillin: