rocketwheels

Cool, i saw those., too.....thx

There was a set of the lace pattern alumn wheels from a grand cherokee somewhat local for 75$ , id rather have steel wheels so I'm gonna keep looking. That steel wheel on the early 2000s wranglers would do nice.....are they 15 or 16 inch?

Scottjeep, that craiglist link didnt work, what was the title?

In "other make" wheels, they need to be 15 inch as i have relatively new tires and a small budget

Front and rear offset? Bolt pattern ? And what other jeeps (and other makes) share the pattern? Reason I'm asking is my super cheap Western Wheels are starting to rust at the bead , causing the tires to leak down. They are probably a "day 2" owner added item and have aged to their limit. I have seen the aluminum grand cherokee wheels on mj, but thinking of ordering new versions of the old steel"wagon wheels" , don't know what the offsets are or the bolt pattern......

Hey! Sorry so lateto respond, yes mines a '88 with the big 6 / 5spd , should be a match. How much for it? I figured that if someone cut it off the harness with several inches of wire hanging out, i could but splice it in by matching the wires, not having to remove the whole harness. Let me know what you think.

Buckwheat, that sounds like a plan!

I generally like LEOs in my area, if the cops up north diddle you for brake lights half working....its no wonder they keep getting shot at! Here in 'Bama, all vehicles are required to have 1 working taillight and 1working brake light ( law on the books since the 40's, no one has changed it)..... doesnt matter how many lights were installed on the car by the factory ( we don't have yearly inspections here either). They have been known to pull us over to remind us the light is out, but usually a ruse to check you for dui.same with "directional" blinkers.

So what is the proccedure or order of operations getting the speedo cable back onto the instrament cluster? I can't get my hand up inside from the back far enough, and there is not enough slack to slip the clip on while sliding the cluster into place. You guys that do thisall the time, how do you go at it?

I had the jolting issue, too. Mine turned out to be the distributor, the hold down ear was cracked, letting the dizzy rotate slightly ... mine would idle fine and also hammer down just fine....my bucking was intermittant and only happened while trying to hold a constant speed on the highway...eventually got so bad truck was undrivable, found the broke ear while changing the injectors and plugs, caps and wires. Just another place to look.

....if anyone is tossing a wire harness that happens to have a good fuse box (both halves), let me know, am willing to buy just the box as long as a length of the wires are still sticking out of it so i can just splice it in. Any thoughts? Not looking for restoration quality, just a patch in for a good running truck that had the clutch/brake fluid leaking into the fuse box issue. Thanks!

....if anyone is tossing a wire harness that happens to have a good fuse box (both halves), let me know, am willing to buy just the box as long as a length of the wires are still sticking out of it so i can just splice it in. Any thoughts? Not looking for restoration quality, just a patch in for a good running truck that had the clutch/brake fluid leaking into the fuse box issue. Thanks!

Hey, had an update and more thoughts on this charging issue....the trick Gene had with the 10 amp resistor works, but the resistor has gotten so hot it burned off all the shrink wrap and the wire insualtio close to it. Still works, though. 2nd, i now have a very slow battery drain, maybe caused by this alteration , maybe not....just added a battery disconnect. 3rd , never did find the area were the wire has the issue, but as some of you may remember, my fuse box is totally shot, melted and deformed due to heat generated by the damage caused by brake fluid dripping down the fuse box for no telling how long by the previous owner. That may be were the alt wire connection is having the bad connection. Anyways , Genes "by-pass the ignition/alt light at the alternator" trick works, just be prepared for the heat generated at the connection, and a possible slow battery drain. I guess i will look for another harness with fuse block for a future project!

Did you figure out the stall out problem? Was it the nss?

WELL ...... ol' Sgt Rock is producing juice again, thanks to Gene and his "I want to get this up and going" plan. I ground the system out and the Batt light did not burn, and after several days of tracing harnesses and cleaning connectors, it was still a "no go". So ... (lucky I live in Huntsville, where everything is just a few minutes away)... after a trip to Radio Shack for the Resistor, and a swing by the local hobby store to borrow a small piece of wire and the soldering iron, I performed said "bypass surgery" on the Alternator Harness Pigtail....then ran down the street to O'Reilys for a quick check with their portable Batt/Alt checker and....VIOLA ! .... output is normal, alt checked good. Now, if I could just get the danged Speedo cable back into place after pulling the cluster out, my big fat hands just don't fit up in and back behind the cluster to re-seat the cable straight. Thanks Gene and Hornbrod !!

I have a habit of thinking all current is "power ...items....ground" , instead or thinking of circuits. Then....that means I have current at the fuse , at the switch , at the bulb and leaving the cluster ....but not in the wire out in the harness. SO....gotta trace down that danged wire from the cluster to the alternator and find out were they "break" or bad junction connection is. BUT FIRST....I'm gonna ground that tan wire to the battery at the end of the pig tail to see if the bulb lights up....and if it does.... WOW, is there no end to this?

Ok, so it is not a ground in its intention. I won't make that mistake. I may try the test to see if the light lights up to check the wiring. I checked and the fuse is good and there is (I'm stupid and don't understand why) there is 12v on both sides of the "batt" light on the circuit board on the back of the cluster when the ignition switch is turned on.... wouldn't that make the light burn if it is good? I swapped a bulb in from the temp light and still no burn. I may have to try that trick you mentioned, sounds like a plan. Thanks for your insight and help

Thanks for this info , as well !

Gene, on page 25 the tan w/tr wire is labeled as jumper to ground in the "trouble shooting at dash light / gauge". I haven't checked the fuse for the " instr panel" yet (it's 20 degrees outside this morn) , but if it is OK , could I get the same result by side splitting the pigtail at the alternator and grounding to the battery? Hornbrod also suggested the alternator case doesn't ground well, I assume this is 2 different types of ground , but it couldn't hurt...?

I shared your woes.... recently I replaced my dizzy because of that pulse ring.....seems mine had been going bad forever, causing a miss that got ever worse. Had the guys here walk me thru anything i didn't already think of on timing and tuneup / ignition.....only to find the hold down tab on the dizzy was cracked , allowing the shaft to wobble around, causing errant firing of the fuel injectors. Been like this for 5 years, until I couldn't drive it anymore because of the miss.

funny thing about the "up" arrow, it keeps coming on when I'm in 5th gear.....i can't go no further up than 5th !

If you are still having problems, keep an eye on my "hinky alternator" post as I am having some sort of wiring issue in the harness or dash or somewheres !

Gene....is it possible there is a failure in the ignition switch since the brown wire goes from there to the light and then out to the alternator? Should there be current on at least one side of the circuit board the bulb plugs into? If not then I need to pull the ignition switch and check there.....I dunno, this is confusing since I don't have a grasp of the whole system from start to finish .

Oh ....if it had only been that simple....with the ignition on, there was 0 current in the brown wire, so I pulled the cluster ....AND.....the bulb is good :hmm: , so.....until it got dark I was stripping back conduit and cloth tape, trying to follow that little brown wire to a junction where i can test it again. Looks like I have something to do tomorrow...... :dunno:

Gene....thank you, this is interesting. You nailed the description of the wires .The dash light (mine has a light, no gauge) has not come on lately that I can remember. Shouldn't it always come on when the ignition is on but the truck is not running? If so, then the bulb has gone out or something to this effect. I'll get the volt meter and see where this takes me. Thanks again !!