rocketwheels

Thanks, Hornbrod, that is the type I have.

...after cleaning , testing continuity and re-installing the alternator and said wires, it still test as "regulator bad". I'm flummoxed. Word for the day ! "Flummoxed" .... guess it is better to be labelled "Flummoxed" than "arsonist", 'cause thats what the next word of the day will be if I can't figure this pile-o-crap out !

just had the same thing happen to mine, see my post a little further up. have you determined if it was the alternator or one of the wires or ?

....long story short, after loosing a battery to what seemed to be an 8 year old Alternator that went bad, I've gone thru 2 new units off the shelf that would not charge and said "regulator no output" on the portable test unit hooked to the truck. We bench tested the 2nd new alternator and it tested good on output. SO.... I bought a pigtail for the harness, but before I chopped off the old one, I tested the 2 wires leading from it....the yellow lead went up to the "control center" area under the hood between the battery and the expansion tank and plugged into a single junction before diving into the big wire harness....and the brown went to a flat multi-wire junction up near the battery. Each of these tested solid with an Ohm meter from the pigtail to each of these junctions. The large "red" lead to the relay (not part of the pigtail) also tested solid. Is there something I'm missing, like perhaps the regulator isn't internal on these alternators....but built into the works of the truck?

....got a local salvage yard guy that doubles as a jeep guy, he has a ton of NOS parts for jeeps, including these tanks, The "original popped a few weeks into the resurrection, then the NOS replacement lasted a few years and then this NOS replacement has started cracking on top just like the others. I decided to use some under water JB Weld and it has halted the seepage of coolant from the tank for quite a while now. just know I'm due for a failure anytime. They are only $25 bucks for the NOS ones , guess I should buy another and keep it behind the seat ! Other than the standard radiator swap/conversion , is there any kind of replacement tank for these things? I'd like to leave the system as it is.

I kinda thought it was odd , too. Do later engines not have timing marks? It is possible this is not the original , the truck has 237K on it and I have no idea of the history other than purchased new by a chrysler employee, left to sit for 7 years in a chicken shed, and then I got it. It may have a later model engine , I wouldn't know. All of my local jeep friends were very impressed by the power and acceleration this truck has....maybe it has a later motor in it.

....alright !! Good to go. saved up and bought a new dizzy, complete with cap and Sync sensor inside. old Sgt. Rock purrs like a kitten. Amazing to have to chase this problem all this time. I bought this truck many years ago and this "misfire" began shortly after starting to drive it.....progressively got worse over time. Threw parts at it one at a time, figures it was the last possible item that could be replaced. The dizzy was just plum worn out, had play in 3 different directions....and I'm not sure if that sync sensor was the problem or just another factor. Anyways, thanks for all the info and insight ! BTW.....my harmonic balancer /pulley does not have any timing marks of any kind (on the rim , the face or anywhere), so I just brought the 1st piston to the top and made marks on the old dizzy so i could duplicate the re-install.

thanks hornbrod !

update....had more time to work with it this weekend, seems the entire dizzy is worn out....the lock down ears/ring is cracked and even when secured the whole dizzy is sloppy side to side and up and down in the bore. Guess I'll go buy a new one that has a new sync sensor in it.....p.s. where is the timing mark on the crank harmonic balancer?....on the face/lip of the outer ring, or under the belt on the grooves, or even behind that?

...all of the first ones except tip #2, haven't devoted enough time for that yet. anyways, if there was no change by unplugging the dizzy, then that means the items in the dizzy is.....A - not working at all.....OR.......B - not getting current or signal when it is plugged in ?

cruiser54......just unplugged and test drove, no difference, exact same actions ....PS, I followed most of the "cleaning the connections and grounds" tips ,I think I'm good there.

my bad.....I meant Camshaft sensor or whatever it is called inside the dizzy. This is an '88 model.

Hey guys, haven't been too active lately, but gotta ask a question........Sgt Rock has had an ignition miss since I drug it out of the chicken shed several years ago. Have never been able to nail it down. Over time (and sometimes twice) I have replaced everything in the ignition system along with everything in the fuel system (including TPS and CPS ) and still this infernal miss is there.....all of a sudden got much worse. Occasional stutter, thuds and occasional pops thru exhaust....all happening when trying to hold constant speeds between 45 and 70. Purrs like a kitten at idle and until just now runs like a whipped dog at full throttle. The question is about the distributor and the CPS which is apparently inside of it. Are these prone to slow failure or what? What is the best solution....1 rebuild the dizzy with the new cps.....2 replace with new/reman stock unit....3 replace with the GM HEI style replacement ? Any insight would be helpful. Thanks guys !!

I finally got it with the help of another old AMC owner...the top 2 bolts are External Torx head 6 sided bolts...he had a set of those goofy @$$ sockets ! needless to say, since this aint gettin finished tonight, I'll be making a trip to Fastenal to find some regular style bolts to replace them tomorrow!

old Sgt. Rock here was saved from the scrap yard , I bought it for 200$ with 200k on it, hydraulic clutch cylinder had gone out. I've since driven it to 232k with most of it heavy loads of firewood coming out of the mountains of N. Alabama. Apparently the truck was all original as I had a bunch of dealer and later svc centers tire and lube receipts in the dash and in a folder under the seat. I don't think anything serious was ever donw to the truck. I've replaced the normals, water pump, alt, fan clutch, master cylinder, TPS, CPS and tune up stuff, plus I've destroyed 2 d-35 rear ends. Just now he went down, the throw out bearing /slave cylinder has given up....in the driveway repalcing it right now.....IF I CAN GET THE STUPID TORX HEAD BOLTS OUT OF THE TOP 2 SPOTS ON THE BELL HOUSING ! ....still , helluva truck !

...pardon my French but ... WTF ! ...kinda bolts are the 2 at the top of the bell housing to the block? Looks like some kind of torx type head, but, I have a set of 1/2 , 7/16 , 3/8 sockets to remove those types of bolts and these seem to be between sizes....any suggestions? and another thing....WHO TF ?...thought it was a good idea to use every different size standard and metric bolt in securing the trans to the motor? I have had real AMC's before, but this is absolutely idiotic.

I did my homework...they are not the same between 4spd and 5spd...but for some reason the stores computer is back referenceing the listing as a 4cyl/4spd unit. Brand is Power Torque Clutch kit# K-1675-22 and is correct for the 6cyl/5spd application. The 2 trans use different diameter clutches and so on , so they are not a direct swap. I really don't like "computer look-up" systems ...one little input error and confusion sets in !

Needing to finally do the Slave Cylinder replacement, clutch has completely failed. Thru Oreilly's I can get a complete kit (plate, disc, cylinder/bearing assembly), when looking up the part for the 6cyl/5spd and find one, and cross referencing it back around, it comes back as listed for the 4cyl/4spd. My question is: is it the same stuff in the 4spd clutch as in the 5 spd clutch? Thanks in advance. now going to surf the web with manufacturers part numbers to see what i can find out.

BTW...the electric fan is not comming on solid when the A/C is turned on....it only runs sporadically as it does just like when the A/C isn't on.

Ok, flush, refill, new cap and a new mech fan clutch.....truck now runs just above 200 at regular road speeds and sits in traffic at around 21 (oops 210 , danged fat fingers ), already an improvement from what it was doing...we'll watch and wait to see what happens over the next few days.

Eagle, talked to him this eve....2000 model, gonna flush and review tomorrow evening.

nitroxsteve, Eagle .... don't know for sure , but at least mid 90's era. His coolant is really murky. We plan on a flush and new fluid to go with the new thermostat and the new cap. I have a back flush adapter I made many years ago to hook a garden hose into any clamped system starting backward thru the heater core. A good burping of the system will be the final order of the day. He did tell me that the PO claimed to have replaced the radiator a few years ago. We shall see what that does. BTW what is the burping proceedure? I've read it in the shop manual, but any advice? TIA

I haven't laid hands on the truck yet to look for myself, but I need a little advice on an issue. OK, here is his run down... he bought it last fall , Xj 6cyl / auto with A/C. Has the normal cooling system with a radiator cap...NOT the sealed expansion tank system. Truck radiator cooling does ok , remains in good range in moderate weather. BUT, In this 90 plus weather, the truck is up in the 220 range and coolant churns and looses some coolant when shut off. Friend isn't mechanically inclined but does ok...he replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap at my suggestion, but this hasn't changed the symptoms. He doesn't see any signs of oil in the coolant or vice versa. The truck has the clutched fan and the electric fan. The fan clutch checked out ok (tough to turn the fan by hand when really hot) and the electric fan kicks on when the truck gets into the upper temp range.....BUT isn't the electric fan supposed to come on automatically when the A/C is turned on, regardless of the engine temp? Is there some kind of relay for that, outside of the normal temp sending unit? I'm thinking that that perhaps that is the issue, because the temp doesn't get quite as high when he doesn't turn on the A/C. Also, I thought that perhaps the engine coolant needs to be "burped", maybe there is air in the system. Isn't there a trick to burping the system? I really hope he doesn't have a head gasket starting to go bad, blowing exhaust into the coolant, causing it to over pressurize and heat up. So, I've got these items to look at...Cap, thermostat, fan clutch, sending unit, relay ?, "burping" the system. Have I got the basics covered? I plan on catching up with him this weekend to look at the truck, please throw some suggestions my way on what else may be causing the heat up.

Thanks, Eagle !!

....gotta buy a new one, this ones got an inch of slack in it. I assume it is just a "tie rod end" but does it have another name in this configuration?