rocketwheels

...whats up with frams? are they the one with the check valve that keeps them full or oil to avoid dry start....the check valve stick shut and starves the motor? Ive heard of that but didn't know which filter brand it was. I've used frams for years an everything else and never had any problems.

...been there, done that, got the t-shirt.....just, not in a Jeep! Hope you get it rolling again!

:needpics:

....cool truck, love the front bumper !!

..."I surfed the web and found the "paint-by-number" diagrams used by the US Army to camo paint their vehicles including a diagram for pickups"... "Care to share this link? Sounds interesting" sure, here are 2 different ones, one shows a full size Chevy, the other a full size Dodge this one comes in as a .pdf file http://www.olive-drab.com/images/m880_camo.pdf this one has both the 3 color and 4 color versions as seperate links http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_li ... uflage.htm

.....my MJ has the decal on the firewall indicating "m20x1.5 oil filter. I remember that sometime in the 80's -90's jeep went from a standard thread to metric on the filter. My problem is the ACDelco filter on my jeep has lost the decal with the part number and the only fram indicated for the '88 4.0 does not fit, looked up the wix number for a '91 Cherokee4.0 and thought different , it doesn't fit either. What are the brands and part number in use in your truck? :dunno:

....could be the fan clutch,.... I've had sbc's that make a faint sound like you describe, the timing chain is sloppy and is rubbing the cover, They eventually rub through and seep oil on the chevy motors.

...I'm not sure if the brush guard is stock, it is quite solid!!

....yeah, its not so stout, kinda like the fender flairs, some kind of poly-plastic material.....

...it fits the shoulders of the rear fenders as if it was made for it. I guess it may be a Comanche specific aftermarket item installed by our local dealer along with the Bosch lights. The brush guard may not be factory either, I wouldn't know. Check the other pics in my folders at the Fotki site (use the link above to get there) there are a few more pics of the truck in the chicken shed where it sat for several years....

..."Street truck or wheeler? You can turn the steering stops out if nothing else. But that sucks if you wheel it... Oh, and if you don't wheel it you should be able to get a 35 under that lift without trimming or more than the occasional rubbing." That sounds great! I guess it would be a casual wheeler, pastures , crossing easy creek beds and mild wooded hillsides with smaller rocks exposed. I don't need 4x4 for this, just good clearance. we use my friends 4bang 2x4comanche with the 31's for this, does good except the occasional rut or knob catching the diff......

Finally picked up the $200 Comanche I bought back in October, got it cleaned up and everything working, still having the clutch/slave cylinder issues. Since the Clear coat and paint is toast, I surfed the web and found the "paint-by-number" diagrams used by the US Army to camo paint their vehicles including a diagram for pickups. I've got the front clip painted up to the window post and the tail and wheels finished, just need to remove the cab fairing and scrape some loose Sportruk decals off to finish the paint job on both sides . The cab fairing has a mounting positions for factory option Bosch 100W driving lights, but years of vibration caused them to break out, lights are still good but will have to get some plate steel cut x2 to sandwich the fairing for new mounting holes, will also get some smaller driving lights for brush guard mounts. Long term, looking for 5.5 or 6 inch lift and 33's to 35's buckshots or similar. Will be using this truck only as back up bad weather vehicle (I ride a yami Vstar to work daily) and for pulling a firewood trailer across pastures and possible a boat to the lake. won't be a daily street driver.Here is a pic on the ride home....will get the Camo pics soon.... http://public.fotki.com/rocketwheels/st ... 02221.html

ive got a buddy that owns a '88 4bang Comanche , he picked up a set of aluminum wheels with 31x10.5 15's from a salvage yard and they fit on the stock truck with no trimming and only rub the inside fronts when turn tight and big bounce at same time. The custom rims look like they may have been a Ford Ranger 4x4 dealer dress up item, sawblade looking things. I will be buying and fabbing some form of 5.5 or 6 inch lift within the next year, just checking out all my tire/wheel-used/new options.From what I've read using thread search,I would suspect that 32's would not fit under stock truck without issues....and 34's are good under the lift without hacking truck, 35's need some assistance to fit without rubbing...

All right! Thats what I'm looking for......and the hubs centers are large enough? Mine is only 2 wheel drive....

Ok, bear with me. I'm old school. When it comes to wheels , alls I knows is Dodge fits Fords, but Ford don't fit Dodges and neither fits GM. What size is the 5bolt pattern on the MJ? Reason I ask is that I may have other wheel sets readily available from other makes with large off road tires already mounted. Now , don't say "5 on 4.5" , it doesn't do me any good since I have no clue what the others measure out to. I used to have an AMC Eagle with the 90's era grey steel 5blade jeep wheels. This car would also fit the smaller Chysler/Dodge/Plymouth 5 lugs from the 70's-80's (not the truck/van wheels) and also the smaller Ford 5 lugs from the 70's-80's( except the hub hole was too small on some Ford applications). What other makes share the bolt pattern, so that I can hit the salvage yards with an idea what to look for? And, what is the minimum/maximum inner offset tolerable for the MJ?

..."silicone wouldn't do you any good unless you bleed the whole system out." ...Good tech advice !! I'll be sure to make this change in the near future!

..."need to watch, though, is the clutch master cylinder. When they leak, " ...I seem to be good there, nice and dry, but I will keep an eye on it. To use the synthetic, can I just flush /drain the system and refill, or does it need to be completely cleaned so there won't be any brakefluid/synthetic negative reaction?

....after owning several "big block" long stroke vehicles, as a rule, I never put anything larger than 2 to 2.5 inch pipes and ever lessen the restriction in the exhaust. I'd rather have that low end torque. I have a 72 Galaxie with a 460PI , I lost a load of low end when I went with 2.5 pipes and Thrush Cannons, It sounds awesome and I really noticed the expanded power band while accellerating around 125mph, but I lost all the light to light launching power.

I would say the clutch must be really good if it's engaging that close to the floor. It has a lot left on it. ...from the history I gathered, it seems the truck had the motor replaced about 5k miles before it was left to sit, maybe they installed a new clutch/pressure plate while this was in progress. Then again, as feerocknok experienced, it may be the action of a failing slave cylinder.....

just getting my $200 Comanche moving after sitting almost 10 years in a chicken coop. The clutch pedal worked once then went to the floor. I cracked the bleed screw and let it dribble a little then re-tightened, the clutch started working again. Obviously a clutch bleed is a good idea. My question is, is there a way to adjust where the clutch engages during pedal travel? I didn't see anything in my haynes manual on this type of adjustment, just on how to bleed the system. Right now the clutch engages about an inch off the floor. Will this change after I bleed the system? :hmm:

....it was the sockets, they looked good but I replaced them with a duplicate set I found at O'reileys autoparts (labeled as ford replacement), everything is good to go. Thanks guys !! Great place to come to for problem solveing !! :wrench:

OK, here's the plot... right front blinker/parking light does not come on when parking lights are turned on. Same light does not blink when asked to (replaced the front bulb 2057NA and both rears2057 to be sure not a goofy bulb issue)The dash indicator just glows solid and the rears will flash by moving the blinker switch. Here is the funny part, same light will blink when Hazards are applied, BUT!!, if you turn on the parking lights and the Hazards at the same time, the front turn signals "wig-wag" like police headlights. :nuts: I know that the Hazards are a different circuit, and this is probably a grounding/short issue, especially since the wigwag effect happened. I have inspected the wiring harness as best as possible without removing the front cap. Is there a chassis ground pigtail on one of these harnesses? Were would it be located? I couldn't find one anywhere visible. ..all right, I just thumbed thru previous threads and found the "lights from hell" notes. The dash light does glow faintly, so I will check the front sockets really well. I did look them over in the setting sun this evening. they looked fine, but a closed inspection will come in the morning sunlight. I need another beer! :cheers:

I just remembered, I have a set of springs from the front of a '66 390 Fairlane GT, was going to use them for a bigblock '68 Cougar conversion. Any body have an idea on the height measurement of an unloaded stock spring ? I know these springs will be stiffer than the trucks, a 390 was quite heavy!!

...hey bdjr....."i to am to cheap to buy a lift so i soa'd the rear which gave me 4-5 in the back. then put 2" spacers and got coils from a zj v-8(and was told they are from and upland? package) and that gave me 4 1/2 up front and i made little lift blocks for the shocks. rides smooth and no DW!!!!" .....I just bought an '88 2WD MJ Sport (4.0 / 5spd) for $200 and like you want the cheapest lift possible . I used to have a '83 AMC Eagle sedan that I put 4" blocks between the rear axle and springs and a 3" rubber insualtor on top of the front coils. really got it up there but got the death wobble around 60-70mph when you'd hit a bump. This car was nearly identical to the trucks suspension. I don't care about ride quality as this truck will be the back woods firewood hauler, will the "cheap lifting" cause the dangerous wobble? I'm new to the Jeep thing, what is the name for the zj you got the springs from?