cherokee

LED bulbs, sockets were some gm part number that I don't know offhand. Required a little tab trimming to fit, and more to fit the bulbs correctly.

put new carpet in. makes it look a lot more finished.

Oh yeah, trying to figure out how to use a rear swaybar of some sort might be a worthwhile project too.

Here's what I've kept track of while reassembling my MJ... ebrake bracket studs in cab = M8x1.25 brake booster mounting bolts = 3/8-16 flange nuts steering box cushion bolt = M8x1.25 ~3/4"long steering box bolts = 7/16-14x4"long; 1.7" thread length with dognose tip, grade 8 w/ washer header panel retaining nuts = M6x1.0 headlight retaining ring screws = #8 machine screws turn signal housing screws = #8 machine screws flare retaining brackets = 10-32 flange nuts horn bracket bolt = M8x1.25 ~3/4"long gas pedal studs = 1/4-20 flange nuts upper brake pedal assembly bolts = M10x1.5 w/ washer; ~35mm long battery tray studs = M8x1.25 cargo light = #6 sheet metal screws, 1.5"long under bed ebrake bracket = M10x1.5 flange bolts, ~1"long front swaybar frame bracket bolts = M10x1.5 flange bolts, ~1"long upper trackbar bracket bolts = M12x1.75, ~1.75"long lower trackbar bracket nuts/motor mount studs = M12x1.75 passenger side motor mount stud = M10x1.5 motor mount frame studs = M8x1.25 passenger motor mount small stud = M8x1.0 driver motor mount weld nut = M10x1.5 wiper bay cowl support = M6x1.0 flange nuts motor mount weld nuts inside framerails = M10x1.5 heater box studs = M6.5x1.0 (*) motor mount to ignition coil bracket bolts = M8x1.25, ~5/8"long crossmember support brackets = M10x1.5 stud threads, M10x1.5x~1"long bolts rear shock studs = M12x1.5 radiator isolator studs = M5x.8 radiator crossmember bolts = M6x1.0 ~1"long dash hinge bolts = M10x1.5 ~1"long steering column brace studs = M10x1.5 flange nuts steering column firewall bolts = M8x1.0 (*) tcase shifter bracket = 10-32x1" hex head machine screw gas tank Jbolts = M10x1.5 * marks ones that i'm not entirely sure about.

Something like this?

Not sure if it goes through the grille or under it but the wires are part of the headlight harness.

If I remember correctly the SWB used two retaining straps and the LWB used three. I would guess the strap indentations won't line up if you try to switch the two.

I successfully tapped one as a 3/8 something thread after I broke the bolt off. The original bolts and studs are M10x1.5... :rotf: Like I posted in the link Wildman posted.

Mine had 8 as well, but 10 bed pads. LWB MJ too. The missing ones on mine would have been the 2 red circles closest to the green circles in your picture. I could be wrong though, it's been a month or so since I bolted it in.

Installed rear shocks, passenger rear disc brake, rear brake hard line between caliper and junction, relay center holder, starter relay, rear engine harness. Cool, that's actually a good amount.

2dr XJ's have an extra two to four inches of door length. Possibly more, I've never actually measured.

What pictures? How good does the replacement seem?

For the front turn signal/parking light? Yeah, but I don't have my notes with the part # right now. It also changes the bulb type to the blade style. It was a perfect fit with no modification needed for the socket, unlike the rear.

Actually, the left turn is gray (or silver, take your pick) with a black tracer.

Was the firewall connector/fusebox replaced or repaired? I know I'm not the only one that's seen them damaged on a manual truck before.

It looks incredibly well done. I wonder how much of a pain it was to lengthen the rear bumperettes.

There are two sets of holes on the L bracket, I figured one set was for auto, the other for manual. The L bracket holes don't line up with the crossmember. Also, it's not possible to move the L bracket back if I remember correctly, I didn't see a second set of holes for differing locations of it.

That's exactly my problem. The L bracket holes won't line up when the crossmember is in the farther back location. Brake and fuel lines haven't been run under the cab yet because of this.

That por-patch stuff. Seems to be working pretty good, I've had the header panel assembled a couple times now. TNT, do you weld through the center of the nut? The fiberglass doesn't deform from the heat does it? Either way, I'm gonna have to remember this trick. Might save time compared to the drill around and refill method.

Did a quick test fit of the original crossmember and crossmember supports on my 88mj. From what I remember, the autos used the rear holes in the 'frame' and the manuals used the front. No problem there, until I held a crossmember support in place and noticed that the holes didn't line up. Is there a different support bracket for the autos? Do the sides swap and then it lines up? I tried that but it didn't seem to make a difference. Anybody run into anything similar when doing this same swap or vice versa?

:thumbsup:

I found a lower door weatherstrip on a door from a 95 XJ, it was held on by glue only. I have it saved somewhere. The door also happened to be the only one I'd ever seen with no rust to speak of at the door bottom.

Larger how? Did the trans light get a larger gauge wire? Or a larger bulb?

The small light lead along the trans tunnel area of the rear cab wiring harness is to the 4wd shifter light, right? Anybody happen to know if the floor shifted auto mj's had a second light off the same couple of wires?

I've got an 88 and 95 headlight harness and have noticed some differences. The 88 has a ground lead from the left turn signal socket. Is that normal? The side markers also don't blink as a turn signal in this era, correct? I saw power and ground to the side bulbs and that was it. The 95 had no ground lead. Where is it grounded? Within one of the engine harnesses? The side markers have no ground lead but do have power and a wire that matches one going into the turn signal of the same side. Is it normal for the side markers to have no ground? What I need to do is wire up a headlight harness that will work, preferably with the side marker lights serving as a turn signal as well. Neither harness has a good harness plug or good signal sockets, so I will probably wire one from scratch. Except the ground issue has me a little confused. Do I need to ground the headlight harness from within that harness? Is it ok for the side markers to be ungrounded? I'd hate to short something out because I didn't think of it ahead of time.