cherokee

Not that I can think of, but it's been 2 years or more since I did this. You'll need some of the trim from the new doors too.

Yes you can. I have swapped a 97+ power window into a 96- door frame. The mounting holes for the regulator are different, and you will need some washers here and there to get the spacing right. I think I needed a track from the new doors as well. Here's a couple pics. Internals. Finished.

it's possible but it's a fair amount of work. old doors need to be modified, you need the new glass, regulators, seals, and maybe some other parts that i can't think of right now. lop out the cross section, drill out the rivets, carefully position and drill holes for the regulator, test fit everything.

can't remember what I did exactly but I think it was close enough that it wasn't a problem. Either I used a washer or had the carpet in and there was enough give to make up the difference.

your upper photo looks to be in excess of .030, the lower... maybe .010-.020... if you don't have any actual tools to measure the inside use some feeler gauges pressed into the ridge. this won't be very accurate at all but you can probably get a ballpark figure within .010-.020. and you won't be measuring the width of the bore, only the difference between the ridge and non ridge.

most likely they are a m10x1.5

You wouldn't happen to have LED bulbs in either end would you?

A renix block is interchangeable with an HO block (certain ones not as easily though). A HO head will bolt to a renix block (and vice versa presumably). A HO intake will bolt up to a renix head, but the ports will not match (and the same in reverse).

I've found that an early-ish tracker/samurai overflow bottle works pretty well if you don't mind some really simple fab work. About 6-8" of flat stock, some tapping, and it attaches to the bracket for the charcoal canister and is a pretty good spot to still let you get to anything you need to. Not the best pic for showing this, but...

it's m10x1.5x65mm or so I guess I missed one. If possible get a hardened flange bolt in m10x1.5x60mm (I never found a 65mm long bolt in the hardware store). If you can't find a flanged (built in washer) bolt, find a normal one and get a hardened washer to go with it. Don't forget that metric hardness ratings are different so you're looking for a 10.9 rather than the 8.whatever. Last time I bought a couple cost was a bit over $2/pc. The bolts that Wildman is referring to are the bolts used to hold the upper trackbar/motormount bracket to the frame.

Like this? ah ha, fixed

The NSS would need to be swapped as well as 97+ has a different plug style.

So lately I've been trying to figure out how to classify the renix o2 sensor. It didn't register before that it operated on a 5v range when I'd only heard of 1v range sensors. Since some wideband o2 sensors use a 5v output does that mean the renix sensor qualifies as a wideband sensor? Or was it not that sensitive and needed the extra voltage range to make up for it? It'd be nice if a could hook up an afr gauge of some sort directly to the factory o2 sensor. Has anybody ever logged the voltages produced while a stock (or non stock) motor was running?

Actually, the 3rd already is an led strip.

Turns out it was led tail light bulbs. Very strange since it would have been working correctly if it wasn't for the 3rd brake light.

I'll double check that it's not blinking with the signals, but I'm 99% sure it isn't. That is how I wired mine, the blue wire from the brake switch and the dash ground. Although I just had a brain fart and realized that I do have led bulbs in the tail lights. I'll see if I have enough standard bulbs and if that is the cause... well. :doh: and :wall: among others. Since they didn't have the same symptoms as led bulbs in the front it only just occurred to me. If that isn't the cause, anybody know a way to test the headlight switch while it's in the truck? mfpdm, mucho thanks for testing on your own truck. It's been so long since this truck has been in one piece (roughly 3 years) I don't even remember if the original cargo light worked.

The JCWhitney link isn't valid anymore. I did find this though: http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/product.jcw?nval=0&statenval=0+200001169+1988&productId=2018847&shopid=100001&pageid=12&_requestid=4185736 Could you pm me the wiring diagram anyways Hornbrod? Thanks I managed to find the difference in the factory wiring. The MJ has a wire going directly from the brake switch to the hazard/turn signal switch, while the XJ has the wire leading back to a different connector instead of into the hazard/turn signal switch. I'm pretty sure this is my problem, but why is there a difference?

Anybody?

I've added a 3rd brakelight in the cargo light location on my MJ, however it lights up like the tail lights if the headlamps or parking lights are turned on. It will go to full brightness if the brakes are pressed, just like the tail lights. The 3rd light has 2 wires, one directly from the brake switch (to the blue wire if I remember right), the other goes to the dash ground. It's not an issue of a shared ground as I ran a test lead from the ground to an engine bay ground and had the same problem. Anybody have some suggestions on fixing it?

have you looked at a 31x9.5 Swamper TSL?

There are some minor differences in the throttle bodies. The manual one is missing the peg that the kickdown cable connects to. Plus the spring is different (or was on my examples), a set of bracket holes are untapped, and the idle stop screw may not be set the same. Quicker to get the automatic tbody if possible.

Your kidding........right?? I've got the marks in the lawn to prove it. Too bad the camera batteries were dead. and back on topic... I also added a lot of tranny fluid and power steering fluid. :rotf:

moved mine under it's own power for the first time in over 2 years.

I found that Tracker/Sidekick/etc. bottles are a good size to fit in the space left behind by the closed system coolant bottle. I've currently got one mounted on a simple bracket off the vent canister bracket.

Turned out to be the front LED turn signal bulbs. It's good to know that my rewiring wasn't at fault. I do have a brake light switch issue though. I'll admit I thought about reusing a harness, but after sorting through 3+ header panels and not finding any with decent plugs I gave up. Perils of the rust belt.